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BACON'S DICTIONARY OF BOSTON. 



A Dictionary of Boston. 

By Edwin M. Bacon. New Edition, thoroughly revised. With an Introduction 

by George E. Ellis, D. D. i vol. crown 8vo. 

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worthy edifices ; its literary, historical, religious, charitable, and social institutions 
and organizations ; its system of public schools and other educational facilities ; 
its important commercial, financial, and manufacturing corporations ; its newspapers, 
magazines, and publishing interests ; the steam and horse railways which serve the 
city ; the various steamship lines which run therefrom ; its harbor and the islands 
contained in it, — in a word, whatever of the organized activity and the external 
achievement of Boston one wishes to learn, this Dictionary tells ; and the alphabet- 
ical arrangement makes its wealth of information easily accessible. 

Mr. Bacon has for many years been conspicuously identified with the press of Bos- 
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PREFATORY NOTE. 



The text of " Boston Illustrated " has been revised thoroughly 
for this edition and brought to date, so that the little volume may 
be depended upon as a trustworthy guide to the city of to-day and 
a serviceable handbook both for the visitor and the resident. 
While all the features which have made it popular for so many 
yeai's have been retained, the work has been freshened, new mate- 
rial added, and new illustrations introduced. In the preparation 
of this, as of previous editions, the aim has been to present much 
information in small compass ; to make a ready reference book 
as well as a handy pocket guide. 

Boston, May, 1886. 



CONTEXTS. 

PAGE 

I. A Glance at the History ok Boston 1 

II. The North End 12 

III. The West End 23 

IV. The Central District 69 

V. The South End . 108 

VI. The Harbor 121 

VII. Xew Boston and the Suburbs ...... 129 

VIII. A Group of Suburban Rides . . c . . . 153 

IX. Practical Xotes. 

Hotels, Theatres, Horse-Cars, and Harbor Steamers . . . 158 





OSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



I. A GLANCE AT ITS HISTORY. 

BOSTON was originally " by the Indians called Sliaw- 
nmtt," but the colonists of 1G30, wandering sontliward 
from their landing-place at Salem, named it Trimoun- 
taine. Charlestown, which was occupied by them in July, 
1G30, was speedily abandoned because there was found no 
good spring of water, and the peninsula close by hav- 
ing- been bought of its sole white inhabitant, Mr. William 
Blaxton, or Blackstone, an Englishman, who had been living there sevei'al 
years, the settlement was transferred thither on the 7th of September, O. S. 
(17th N. S.). On the same day the court held at Charlestown ordered that 
Trimountaine be called Boston. This name was given to it in memory of Bos- 
ton in Old England, from which many of the colonists had emigrated, and 
which was the former home of Mr. Isaac Johnson, next to Governor Wintlu-op 
the most important man among the baud of immigrants. The name of Trimoun- 
taine, which has been transformed into Tremont, was peculiarly appropriate. 
As seen from Charlestown, the peninsula seemed to consist of three high hills, 
afterwards named Copp's, Beacon, and Fort. And the highest of the three 
was itself a trimountain, having three sharp little peaks. It seems to be agreed 
that this peculiarity of Beacon Hill was what gave to the place its ancient 
name. Soon after selling the land to the new company of immigrants, Mr. 
Blaxton withdrew to the place which now bears his name, the town of Black- 
stone, on the border of Rhode Island. His house in Boston stood on the slope 
of Beacon Hill, near where now are Pinekney Street and Louisburg Square. 

Boston was selected as the centre and metropolis of the Massachusetts Colony. 
The nucleus of the Colony was large, and the several towns lying along the 
coast were, considering the circumstances, rapidly settled. During the year 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



1630 as many as fifteen hundred persons came from England. In ten years 
not less than twenty thousand had been brought over. In 1639 there was a 
muster in Boston of the militia of the Colony to the number of a thousand able- 
bodied and well-armed men. There is authority for the statement that in 1674 

there were about 
fifteen hundred 
families in the 
town, and the 
population of 
New England was 
then reckoned at 
one hundred and 
twenty thousand. 
The early his- 
tory of Boston has 
been an almost m- 
exhaustible field 
for the researches 
of local antiqua- 
ries. Considering 
that almost three 
quarters of a cen- 
tiuy elapsed be- 
fore the first 
newspaper w a s 
printed, the ma- 
terials for making 
a complete ac- 
count of the 
events that oc- 
curred, and for 
forming a correct 
estimate of the 
habits and mode 
of life of the peo- 
ple, are remark- 
ably abundant. 
Tlie records have 
been searched to 
good purpose. 

Still it is to \asitors that we are indebted for some of the most quaint and in- 
teresting pictures of early New England life. An English traveller, named 
Edward Ward, published in London in 1699 an accomit of liis trip to New 
England, in which he describes the customs of Bostonians in a lively manner, 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 8 

though parts of the story are evidently exaggerated, Mr. Ward thought it a 
great hardship that " Kissing a Woman in Publick, tho' offer'd as a Courteous 
Salutation," should be visited with the heavy punishment of whipping for both 
the offenders. There were even then " stately Edifices, some of which have 
cost the owners two or three Thousand Pounds sterling," and this fact Mr. 
Ward rather illogically conceived to prove the truth of two old adages, " That 
a Fool and his Money is soon parted ; and, Set a Beggar on Horseback he '11 
ride to the Devil ; for ihe Fathers of these Men were Tinkers and Peddlers." 
He 'seemed to have a very low opinion of the religious and moral character of 
the people. Mr. Daniel Neal, who wrote a book a few years later, found " the 
conversation in this town as polite as in most of the cities and towns in Eng- 
land," and he describes the houses, furniture, tables, and dress as being quite as 
splendid and showy as those of the most considerable tradesmen in London. 

Hardly a vestige of the town as it appeared to the earliest settlers now re- 
mains. We have, it is true, in a good state of preservation still, the tlaree most 
ancient burial-grounds of the town, and a few old buildings ; and some of the 
narrow and crooked streets at the North End have retained their early devious 
course, though generally appearing upon the map under changed names. But 
little else of Boston in its first century is preserved. The face of the country 
has been completely transformed. The hills have been cut down, and the flats 
surrounding the peninsula have been filled so that it is a peninsula no longer. 
The old water line has disappeared completely. On the east, the west, and the 
south, nearly a thousand acres once covered by the tide have been reclaimed, 
and are now covered with streets, dwellings, and warehouses. Boston was 
from the first a commercial town. Less than a year had elapsed since the set- 
tlement of the town when the first vessel built in the colony was launched. 
We may infer something in regard to the activity of the foreign and coasting 
trade from the statement of Mr. Neal, before referred to, that " the masts of 
ships here, and at proper seasons of the year, make a kind of wood of trees like 
that we see upon the river of Thames about Wappimj and Limehouse ; " and the 
same author says that twenty-four thousand tons of shipping were at that time, 
1719, cleared annually from the port of Boston. In 1741 there were forty ves- 
sels upon the stocks at one time in Boston, showing that a quick demand for 
shipping existed at that period. It was not until four years after the settle- 
ment of the town that a shop was erected separate from the dwelling of the 
proprietor. In these early days the merchants of Boston met with many re- 
verses, and wealth was acquired but slowly in New England generally. Never- 
theless, the town was on the whole prosperous. At the close of the seventeenth 
century, Boston was probably the largest and wealthiest town in America, and 
it has ever since retained its rank among the very first towns on the continent. 

The colonists Ijrought their minister with them, the Rev. John Wilson, who 
was ordained pastor of the church in Charlestown, and afterwards of the church 
in Boston. But the meeting-house was not built until 1632. This building was 
very small and very plain, within and without. It is believed to have stood 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 




nearly on the spot where Brazer's Building now stands, near the Old State 

House, in State Street. In 1640 the 

^^ same society occupied a new, much. 

z^^lf"^ _ larger and finer building, which stood 

on the site now occupied by Roger's 
Building on W a s h i n g t o n Street. 
This second edifice stood seventy-one 
years and was destroyed by fire in 
1711 ; the third, built on the same spot 
in 1712, was long known as the " Old 
Brick Church " and stood until 1808, 
First Church in Boston when it was taken down; the fourth 

was on Chauney Place ; and the fifth is the present very elegant church build- 
ing on Berkeley Street, first occupied in 1868. Several other churches were 
established very soon after the " First," and there are now in existence as many 
as eight church organizations dating back to the first hundred years after the 
place was settled. The fathers of the 
town were sternly religious, outwardly 
at all events. The evidences are abun- 
dant that they were also zealous for 
education. The influence of Harvard 
College, in Cambridge, was strong upon 
Boston from the first; but a public 
school had been voted by the town in 
1635, the year before Harvard was 
founded. 

It was in Boston that the first news- 
paper ever published on the American 
continent, the "Boston News Letter," 
appeared on the 24th of April, 1704. 
Two years later the first great New 
England journalist, and afterwards a 

philosopher, statesman, and diplomatist. Birthplace of Benjamin Franklin. 

was born in a little house that stood near the head of Milk Street, and that i& 
still remembered by some of the oldest citizens of Boston. It was destroyed 
by fire at the close of the year 1811, after having stood almost a hundred and 
twenty years. The office of the " Boston Post " now covers the spot. 

The liistory of the thirty years preceding the Revolution is full of incidents 
showing the independent spirit of the inhabitants of Boston, their determination 
not to submit to the unwarrantable interference of the British government in 
their affairs and particularly to the unjust taxation imposed upon the Colonies, 
and their willingness to incur any risks rather than yield to oppression. As 
early as 1747 there was a riot in Boston, caused by the aggression of British 
naval officers. Commodore Knowles, being short of men, had impressed sailora 




BOSTON II^USTRATED. 



ill the streets of Boston. The people made reprisals by seizing some British offi- 
cers, and holding them as hostages for the return of their fellow-citizens. The 
excitement was great, but the affair terminated by the release of the impressed 
men and the naval officers, the first victory registered to the account of the 
resisting colonists. Twenty years later the town was greatly agitated over the 
Stamp Act; and hardly had the excitement died away when, on March 5, 1770, 
the famous Boston Massacre took place. The story is familiar to every school- 
boy. The affair originated without any special grievance on either side, but 
the whole population took the part of the mob against the soldiers, showing 
what a deep-seated feeling of hostility existed even then. The scene of this 
massacre was the head of King, now State Street, east side of the Old State 
House. This building was erected in 
1748, on the site occupied by the Town 
House desti'oyed by fire the year previ- 
ous, and is one of the few historic struc- 
tures in the city now remaining. Here 
for a while the courts of the colony were 
lield ; it has been the meeting place of the 
colonial general court and after the Rev- 
olution of that of the Commonwealth; 
for a time it was occupied in part as a 
barrack for British soldiers; in one of 
the upper halls sat the Provincial Coun- 
cil, and it was here that Samuel Adams, The old State-House. 
after the massacre, made his menaoralde and successful demand for the removal 
of the British regiments from the town. Here the first post office in Boston 
was established; and the first merchants' exchange; and after the town became 
a city, it was the first city hall. When the city had no further use for it it was 
entirely surrendered to business purposes; and in course of time it underwent 
great changes; the interior was completely remodelled, and an ugly mansard 
roof was built upon it, wholly destroying the quaint effect of the original archi- 
tecture. In 1881-82 a movement to restore the building to its original appear- 
ance was begun, and in the latter year the Bostonian Society secured a lease 
for ten years of the entire second floor, the attics, and cupola, agreeing to 
maintain the principal rooms for free public exhibition; while the street floor 
and basement were rearranged for business purposes as before, the rentals pass- 
ing to the city to which the property belongs. From the second story upwards 
the building now appears much as it did dui-ing the colonial period. The win- 
dows of the upper stories are modelled after the small-paned windows of the 
earlier times ; the old picturesque pitch-roof has been reproduced ; and on the 
State Street front, at either end of the building, are copies of the carved figures 
of the lion and the unicorn, formerly here, but torn down, and with other 
" tory signs " burned in a bonfire on the day of the first celebration of Ameri- 
can Independence. Some over-sensitive citizens objecting to the restoration 




6 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



of these emblems of royalty, a brightly gilded " bird of freedom " subsequently 
was placed over the Washington Street front of the building. In the rooms of 
the second floor, an interesting collection of antiquities is on exhibition, with 
old portraits and paintings, and sketches of old buildings. The rooms axe open 
free every day except Sundays and holidays. 

The fmieral of the victims of the " Boston Massacre," who were bm-ied in 
the Old Granary Burying-ground, was attended by an inmiense concourse of 
people from all parts of New England, and the impression made by the conflict 
upon the patriotic men of that day did not die out until the war of the Revo- 
lution had begun. The day was celebrated for several years as a memorable 
anniversary. 

The destruction of the tea in Boston Harbor was another evidence of the 
spirit of the people. The ships having " the detested tea " on board arrived 
the last of November and the first of December, 1773. Having kept watch 
over the ships to prevent the landing of any of the tea until the 16th of De- 
cember, and having failed to compel the consignees to send the cargoes back to 
Eno-land, the people were holding a meeting on the subject on the afternoon of 
the 16th, when a formal refusal by the Governor of a permit for the vessels to 
pass the castle without a regidar custom-house clearance was received. The 
meeting broke up, and the whole assembly followed a party of thirty persons 
disguised as Indians to Griffin's (now Liverpool) Wharf, where the chests were 
broken open and their contents emptied into the dock. It has been claimed, 
though on very doubtful authority, that the plot was concocted in the quaint 
._ . _.. _ old building that 

stood until 1860 
on the corner of 
Dock Square and 
North (formerly 
Ann) Street. This 
building was con- 
structed of rough- 
cast in the year 
1680, after the 
great fire of 1679. 
It was occupied by 
shopkeepers, and 
during the latter 
years of its exist- 
ence was known 
as the " old feath- 
er store." A cut 
of the building is 
here given. 

The people of 
the town took as 




Old House in Dock Square. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



prominent a part in the war when it broke out as they had taken in the 
preceding events. Tliey suffered in their commerce and in their property by 
the enforcement of the Boston Port Act, and by the occupation of the town by 
British soldiers. Their churches and burial-grounds were desecrated by the 
English troops, and annoyances without number were put upon them, but they 
remained steadfast through all. General Wasliingion took command of the 
American army July 3, 1775, in Cambridge, but for many months there was 
no favorable opportunity for making an attack on Boston. During the winter 
that followed, the people of Boston endi;red many hardships, but their deliver- 
ance was near at hand. By a skilful piece of strategy Washington took pos- 
session of Dorchester Heights during the night of the 4th of March, 1776, 
where earthworks were immediately thrown up, and in the morning the British 
found their enemy snugly ensconced in a strong position both for offence and 
defence. A fortunate storm prevented the execution of General Howe's plan 
of dislodging the Americans ; and by the 17th of March his situation in Boston 
had become so critical that an instant evacuation of the town was imperatively 
necessary. Before noon of that day the whole British fleet was under sail, and 
General Washington was marching triumphantly into the town. Our sketch 
shows the heights of Dorchester as they once appeared ; it is quite easy to 
see from it how completely the position commands the harbor. No attempt 




view 01 Dorcnester neignts. 



was made by the British to repossess tlie town. At the close of the war Bos- 
ton was, if not the first town in the country in point of population, the most 
influential, and it entered immediately upon a course of prosperity that has 
continued with very few interruptions to the present time. 



8 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

The iii'st and most serious of tlieso intorniptions was that which began with 
the embargo at the oU>se of the year 1807. ami whieh histeil until the peaee of 
1815. Massaehiisetts owned, at the beginning- of that disastrous term of seven 
jeai'S, one third of the shipping- of the United States. Tlie embargo was a 
most serious blow to her interests. She did not believe in the constitutionality 
of the act, nor in its wisdom. The war that followed she judged to be a mis- 
take, and her discontent was aggravated by the usurpations of the general gov- 
ernment. Nevertheless, in response to the call for troops she sent more men 
than any other State, and New England furnished more than all the slave 
States that were so eager in support of the Administration. In all the pro- 
ceedings of those eventfid years Boston men were leaders. 

Again, in the war of the Rebellion, having- been one of the forenu>st com- 
munities in the opposition to slavery, Boston took a leading part, this time on 
the popular side. In this war, in which she participateil by furnishing nu-n 
and means to carry it on at a distance, and in supporting it by the cheering and 
patriotic words of those who remained at home, her history is that of Massa- 
chusetts. Boston alone sent into the ai'my and navy uo less thiui 20,119 men, 
of whom 085 were commissioned officers. 

Boston retained its town government until 1S'2*2. The subject of changing 
to the forms of an incorporated city was nmch discussed as early as 1784, but 
a vote of the town in favor of the change was not carried until .lanuarv, 18'J2, 
when the citizens declared by a majority of about six thousand tive hundred 
out of about tifteen thousand votes, their preference for a city govcrnnuMit. 
The Legislature passed an act incorporating the city in February of the same 
year, and on the 4th of March the charter was formally accepted. The city 
government, consisting of a mayor, ^Ir. John Phillips, as chief executive of- 
ficer, and a city covuunl composed of boards of eight aldermen and forty-eight 
counuon councibuen, was organized on May 1. 

During the last half century the eonnuercial importance of Boston has ex- 
perienced a reasonably steady and constant developnuMit ; the greatest cheek 
upon her prosperity having been the destructive fire of the 0th and 10th of 
November, 1872. The industries of New England have in that tinu^ grown to 
immense proportions, and Boston is now the natural market and distributing- 
point for the most of them. The increase of population and the still nu>re 
rapid aggregation of wealth tell the story fai" nu>re effectively than words can 
do it. In 1700 the population of the town was but 18,038. The combined 
])opulation of the three towns of Boston, Roxbury, and Dorchester, at intervals 
of ten vears, is given in the following table , — 



\\>.ir. Poimliition. 

1810 40,386 

18-20 51,097 

1830 70,713 

1840 107.347 



Year. ropulation. 

1850 1G3.2U 

1860 21-2,746 

1870 250.526 

1880 308,381 



Tilt valuation of real and personal property in the last forty years shows a 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 9 

still more notable increase. The oflieial returns at intervals of five years 
show : — 



Year. Valuation. 

1840 $94,581, COO 

1845 i;J5,!)48,7O0 

1850 180,000,500 

1855 •241,932,200 

1800 278,801,000 



Vear. Valuation. 

1805 $;j7 1,892,775 

1870 584,089,400 

1875 79;i,90 1,895 

J 880 039,462,495 

1885 685,404,000 



After the annexation to Boston of the city of Charlestown and tlie towns of 
West Roxbury and Brioliton, the population of the united niunieipality became, 
by tlie census of 1870, '.^92,499 ; in 1880, accordiujj to the United States Census 
of that year, it had increased to 362,839. The estimated population in 1885 
was fully 400,000. Tlie valuation in 1873 was .'ft;7()5,818,713 ; in 1882, $672,- 
497,961. State, city, and county tax rate per $1,000 : 1880, $15.20 ; 1882, 
$15.10 ; 1883, $17.00 ; 1885, $12.80. 

The growth of Boston proper has, notwithstanding these very creditable 
figures, been very seriously retarded by the lack of room for expansion. Un- 
til the era of railroads it was impracticable for gentlemen doing business in 
Boston to live far from its corporate limits. Accordingly it was necessary to 
" make land " by filling the fiats as soon as the; dimensions of tlie peninsula 
became too contracted for tlu; poimlation and business gathered upon it. Some 
very old maps show how early this enlargement was commenced ; and liardly 
any two of these ancient charts agree. During the present century very 
great progress has been made. All tlie old ponds, coves, and creeks have been 
filled in, and on the south and southwest the connection with the mainland has 
been so widened that it is now as broad as the broadest part of the original 
peninsula. In other respects the improvements have been immense. All the 
hills have been cut down, and one of them has been entirely removed. The 
streets which were formerly so narrow and crooked as to give point to the 
joke that they were laid otit upon the paths made by the cows in going to pas- 
ture, have been widened, straightened, and graded. Wliole districts covered 
with buildings of briek and stone have been raised, with tlie structures upon 
them, many feet. The city has extended its authority over the island, once 
known as Noddle's Island, now East Boston, which was almost uninhabited 
and unimproved until its purchase on speculation in 1830 ; over Soutli Bos- 
ton, once Dorchester Neck, annexed to Boston in 1804 ; and finally, by legis- 
lative acts and the consent of the citizens, over the ancient municipalities of 
Roxbury, Dorchester, Charlestown, West Roxbury and Brighton. The orig- 
inal limits of Boston comprisc^l but 783 acres. By filling in flats, etc., 1,046 
acres have been added. By the absorption of South and East Boston and by 
filling the flats surrounding these districts, 1,838 acres more were acquired. 
Roxbury contributed 2,700 acres, Dorchester, 5,614, Charlestown, 586, West 
Roxbury, 7,848, and Brighton, 2,277. The entire present area of the city is 
therefore about 23,661 acres, — more than thirty times as great as the orig- 
inal area. Meanwhile, the numerous railroads radiating from Boston and 



10 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



reachins;' to almost every village within thirty miles, have rendered it possible 
for bnsiness men to make their homes far away from their counting-rooms. 
By this means scores of snburban towns, unequalled in extent and beauty by 
those surrounding any other great city of the covmtry, have been built up, and 
the value of property in all the eastern parts of Massachusetts has been very 
laro-ely enhanced. These towns are most intimately connected with Boston 
in business and social relations, and in a sense form a part of the city. It is 
this theorv that has led to the annexation of five suburban municipalities 
already, and that will undoubtedly lead, at no distant day, to the absorption 
of others of the surrounding cities and towns. 





12 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



II. THE NORTH END. 

IHE extension of the limits of Boston, and the movement of business 
and population to the southward, have materially changed the mean- 
ing attached to the term North End. In the earliest daj^s of the 
town, the Mill Creek separated a part of the town from the main- 
land, and all to the north of it was properly called the North End. For our 
present purpose we include in that division of the city all the territory north 
of State, Court, and Cambridge Streets. This district is, perhaps, the richest 
in historical associations of any part of Boston. It was once the most impor- 
tant part of the town, containing not only the largest warehouses and the pub- 
lic buildings, but the most aristocratic quarter for dwelling-houses. But this 
was a long time ago. A large part of the North End proper has been aban- 
doned by all residents except the poorest classes. Among its important streets 
may be mentioned Commercial, with its solidly built warehouses, and its great 
establishments for the sale of grain, sliip-chandlery, fish, and other articles ; 
Cornhill, once the head-quarters of the book-trade, a remnant of the business 
still lingering there ; the streets radiating from Dock Square crowded with 
stores for the sale of cutlery and hardware, meats, wines, groceries, fruit, tin, 
copper, and iron ware, and other articles of household use ; and Hanover, 
widened in 1869, and now as formerly a great market for cheap goods of all 
descriptions. Elsewhere in this district are factories for the production of a 
•\'ariety of articles, from a match to a tombstone, from a set of furniture to a 
church bell. 

There are but a few relics remaining of the North End of the olden time. 
The streets have been straightened and widened, and many of them go under 
different names from those first given them, wliile most of tlie ancient build- 
ings have fallen to decay and been removed. Among such as are still left, 
the most conspicuous and the most famous is old Faneuil Hall, the " Cradle 
of Liberty." Tins building was a gift to the town by Mr. Peter Faneuil. 
For more than twenty years before its erection the need of a public market 
had been felt, but the town would never vote to build one. In 1740 Mr. 
Faneuil offered to build a market at his own expense, and give it to the town, 
if a vote should be passed to accept it, and keep it open under suitable regu- 
lations. Tliis offer was accepted by the town, after a hot discussion, by a nar- 
row majority of seven. The building was erected in 1742 ; and only five 
years later the opposition to the market-house system was so powerful that 
a vote was carried to close the market. From that time until 1761 the ques- 
tion whether the market should be open or not was a fruitful source of dis- 
cord in local politics, each party to the contest scoring several victories. In 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



13 



the last-named year Faneuil Hall was destroyed by fire. This seems to have 
turned the current of popular opinion in favor of the market, for the toynx 
immediately voted to rebuild it. In 1805 it was enlarged to its present size. 
From the time the Hall was first built until the adoption of the city charter 
in 1822, all town meetings were held witliin its walls. In the stirring events 
that preceded the Revolution it was put to frequent use. The spirited 




Faneuil Hall and Quincy Market. 

speeches and resolutions uttered and adopted within it were a most potent 
agency in exciting the patriotism of all the North American colonists. In every 
succeeding great crisis in our country's history, thousands of citizens have 
assembled beneath this roof to listen to tlie patriotic eloquence of their lead- 
ers and counsellors. The great Hall is peculiarly fitted for popular assemblies. 
It is seventy-six feet square and twenty-eight feet high, and possesses admi- 
rable acoustic properties. The floor is left entirely destitute of seats, by which 
means the capacity of the hall, if not the comfort of audiences, is greatly in- 
creased. Numerous large and valuable portraits adorn the walls : a copy of 
the full-length painting of Washington, by Stuart ; another of the donor of the 
building, Peter Faneuil, by Colonel Henry Sargent ; Healy's great picture of 
Webster replying to Hayne ; excellent portraits of Samuel Adams and the 
second President Adams ; of General Warren and Commodore Preble ; of 



14 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln, and John A. Andrew ; and of several 
others jjrominent in the history of Massachnsetts and the Union. The Hall is 
never let for mon^y, but it is at the disposal of the people whenever a sufficient 
number of persons, complying with certain regulations, ask to have it opened. 
The city charter of Boston, which makes but very few restrictions upon the 
right of the city government to govern the city in all local affairs, contains a 
wise provision forbidding the sale or lease of this Hall. 

The new Faneuil Hall Market, popularly known as Quincy Market, origi- 
nated in a recommendation by Mayor Quincy in 1823. The corner-stone was 
laid in April, 1825, and the structure was completed in 1827. The building is 
five hundred and tliirty-five feet long and fifty feet wide, and is two stories in 
height. This great market-house was built at a cost of $150,000, upon made 
land; and so economically were its affairs managed that the improvement, in- 
cluding the opening of six new streets and the enlargement of a seventh, was 
accomplished without the levying of any tax, and without any increase of the 
city's debt. 

The oldest church building in the city and one of the oldest of the historic 
burial-grounds are in the older part of the North End district. These are 
Christ Church, Episcopal, on Salem Street, and the old North Burying-Ground, 
near by, in what remains of Copp's Hill. Clirist Church was established in 1723, 

and the present is the first 
and only building ever 
occupied by the society. 
During the Revolution, the 
rector, the Rev. Mather 
Byles, Jr., left the town 
on account of his sympathy 
with the royal cause. The 
steeple of this church is a 
jjrominent landmark. It 
is, however, but a copy of 
the original steeple, from 
which the warning lights 
were hung on the night of 
April 18, 1775, which was 
l»lown dowai in the great 
gale of October, 1804. The 
tower contains a fine chime 
of eight bells, upon which 
have been rung joyful and 
mournful peals for more 
than a century and a quar- 
ter. The interior of the 
church is quaint and most 
interesting. Upon the walls 




Christ Church, Salem Street. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



15 



are some historic paintings and mnral ornaments ; and the chnrch possesses 
plate, pulpit bible and service books presented by George II., and other valua- 
bles. It has a bust of Washington, the first ever made. It has also a rare old 
clu'istening-bowl. One portion of the gallery was once set apart for slaves. 

The old North Burying-Ground was the second established in the town. It 
has for many years been closed against interments, but has been faitlifuUy 
cared for as a cherished old landmark. Its original limits, when first used for 




Copp's Hill Burying-Ground. 

interments in 1660, were much smaller than now. Like most of the remaining 
relics of the early times, this burial-ground bears traces of the Revolutionary 
contest. The British soldiers occupied it as a military station, and used to 
amuse themselves by firing bullets at the gravestones. The marks made in tliis 
sacrilegious sport may still be discovered by careful examination of the stones. 
One of these most defaced is that above the grave of Captain Daniel Malcolm, 
which bears an inscription speaking of him as : 
"a true son of Libekty a Friend to the Publick an Enemy to oppression and 

ONE OF the foremost IN OPPOSING THE REVENUE ACTS ON AMERICA." 

This refers to a bold act of Captain Malcolm, in landing a valuable cargo of 
wines, in 1768, without paying the duty upon it. The performance was in the 
night under the guard of bands of men armed with clubs. It would be called 
smuggling at the present day, but when committed it was deemed a laudable 
and patriotic act, because the tax was regarded as unjust, oppressive, and illegal. 
The most noted persons whose bodies repose within this enclosure were undoubt- 
edly the three Reverend Doctors Mather, — Increase, Cotton, and Samuel; 
but there are many curious and interesting inscriptions to read, which would 



16 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



well repay a visit. The biirying-ground is even now a favorite place of resort 
in the warmer months, and the gates stand hospitably open to visitors. Stran- 
gers will find the superintendent courteous and willing to give information re- 
garding the older gravestones and the most noteworthy graves. It is to the 
credit of the city, that, when it became necessary in the improvement of this 
section of the city to cut down Copp's Hill to some extent, the burying-ground 
was left untouched, and the embankment protected by a high stone-wall. 

Quite at the other extreme of the North End district is the Massachusetts 
General Hospital, a structure of imiJosing appearance devoted to most benefi- 
cent uses. This institution had its origin in a bequest of $5,000 made in 1799, 

but it was not 
until 1811 that 
the Hospital 
was incorpo- 
rated. The 
State endowed 
it with a fee- 
simple ui the 
old Province 
House, which 
was s u b s e - 
quently leased 
for a term of 
u i n e t y - u i n e 
years ; and the 

Massachusetts Hospital Life Insurance Company was required by its charter 
to pay one third of its net profits to the Hospital. Large sums of money were 
raised by private subscription both before the institution had begun operations 
and every year since. The handsome granite building west of Blossom Street 
was completed in 1821. In 1846 it was enlarged by the addition of two exten- 
sive wings, and in 1875 four new jiavilion wards were completed. The stone of 
the original structure was hammered and fitted by the convicts at the State 
Prison. Tlie system on which this noble institution is managed is admirable, in 
that it is so designed as to combine the principles of gratuitous treatment and 
the payment of their expenses by those who are able to do so. The Hospital 
turns away none who come Nvithin the scope of its operations, while it has room 
to receive them, however poor they may be. It has been greatly aided in this 
work by generous contributions and bequests. The fund permanently invested 
to furnish free beds amounts to over $ 600,000 ; and the annual contributions 
for free beds support about 100 at $ 100 each. To all who are able to pay for 
their board and for medical treatment the charges are in all cases moderate, 
never exceeding the actual expense. The general fund of the Hospital is about 
$1,100,000, and the total of restricted funds attains the same amount. The 
annual income is a quarter of a million dollars, which is usually slightly in ex- 




The Massachusetts General Hospital. 



B OS TON ILL US TRA TED. 



17 



cess of the expenses. These figures are for the Hospital proper and for the 
McLean Asyhim for the Insane at Somerville, which is a branch of the institu- 
tion. From 1,800 to 2,000 patients are treated yearly, of whom more than 
three-fourths pay nothing-. Besides these who are admitted to the Hospital, 
there are annually from 16,000 to 20,000 out-patients, who receive advice and 
medicine, or surgical or dental treatment. It will show more clearly how great 
good is done precisely where it is nuost needed, if we say that three-fourths of 
the male patients are classed as mechanics, laborers, teamsters, seamen, and 
servants; and more than half the female patients are seamstresses, operatives, 
and domestics. Nearly one-half of the patients are foreigners, the natives of 
Ireland far exceeding those of Massachusetts. 

In the section of the city which we have included in the North End district 
four of the eight railroads terminating in Boston have their stations — three of 
them within a stone's throw of each other, on Causeway Street. Our view 
represents the stations of the Eastern and Fitchburg Railroads, with a section 
of the newer Lowell station in the foreground. The Eastern station is an un- 
pretentious building of brick, erected in 1863, after the destruction by fire of 

the formei ^^,uvX \\ <\n 

station. The -dSfeii.\^\ _ ^^ h N^ 
Eastern 
Railroad 
was leased 
in 1883 for 
54 years to 
the Boston 
and Maine, 
and is now 
the Eastern 
Division of 
that Rail- 
road. In con 
nection with 
the Maine 
Central, its 
cars run 
through to 
Bangor, Me 
there mak- 
ing close 
connection 

with the St. John, New Brunswick, railroad system. In addition to the ex- 
tensive through travel thus secured, this Eastern Division of the Boston and 
Maine Railroad performs an exceedingly large amount of local business for 
the cities and towns along the coast to Portsmouth, while its North Conway 
2 




and Fitchburg Railroad Stations. 



18 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 




division enjoys a large share of the White Mountain travel during the summer 

and autumn seasons. 
In 1847 the total num- 
ber of passengers car- 
ried on this Une was 
but 651,408. Over 
6,000,000 have been 
carried in a single year, 
since 1870. 

The station of the 
Fitchbui'g Railroad is 
represented at the ex- 
treme right hand of 
our sketch. It was 
built in 1847, the ter- 
minus of the road hav- 
ing previously been in 
Charlestown. In a 
great hall in the upper 
part of this structure, 
Lowell Railroad station. t w o grand Concerts 

were given by Jenny Lind in October, 1850, to audiences numbering on each 
occasion more 
than four thou- 
sand people. 
The Fitchburg 
Railroad pass- 
es through 
several impor- 
tant suburban 
towns, and 
transacts a n 
extensive loo 
and tlu'ou! 
business. It i^ 
directly con- 
nected with 
the H o o s a c 
Tuimel and 
the great 
t r u n k lines 

, . Haymarkot Square. 

west, main- 
taining the tlu-ough line from Boston to North Adams, under leases of the 
roads beyond Fitchburg. It has excellent terminal facilities at tide-water. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



19 



The Lowell Railroad possesses one of the finest passenger-stations in the 
country, as well as one of the largest. It is seven hundred feet long, and has 
a front of two hundred and five feet on Causeway Street ; the material is face 
brick with trimmings of Nova Scotia freestone. Tlie arch of the ti'ain-house 
has a clear span of one hundred and twenty feet without any central support. 
The head-house contains the offices of the company and very large and conve- 
nient waiting and other rooms for the accommodation of passengers. The 
Boston and Lowell line is for all practical purposes united with the great New 
Hampshire lines ; and over its tracks the cars of the Central Vermont and the 
Boston, Concord, and Montreal enter the city. 

The Boston and Maine Railroad, alone of all lines entering the city on the 
north side, enjoys the privilege of penetrating Avithin the outer street. Its 
station is in Haymarket Square, and the open space in front of it gives promin- 
ence to the structure. The Maine road has a large local business. It is also a 
favorite line to Portland and beyond, as it passes along the Maine coast near 
the sea-side hotels of Saco. The consolidation of the Boston and Maine and 
the Eastern roads has already been mentioned (p. 17). 

Two leading hotels of Boston, the American and the Revere House, are in 
this part of tlie 
city. The Amer- 
ican House, on 
Hanover Street, 
is one of the 
largest hotels 
i n New Eng- 
land. Its ex- 
ternal appear- 
ance was greatly 
i m p r o v ed by 
the widening of 



Hanover Street. 
It covers the 
sites of f oui 
former hotels, 
— Earle's, t h 
Merchants', tht 
Hanover, and 
the old Ameri- 
can Houses 
Upon a portion 
of the ground it 
now occupies, 
the dwelling of 
General W a i - 




20 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



ren formerly stood. It was rebuilt in 1851, and numerous additions have been 
made since. Tlie interior has also been completely remodelled within a few 
years. A large passenger elevator was added to the house when elevators were 
first introduced. The grand dining-room is capable of seating at one time more 
than three hundred people ; at either end mammoth mirrors reach from the 
floor to the ceiling. The American has been under one management for forty 
years. It is conducted on the American plan. 

The Revere House is not strictly %vithin the limits of the district we have 
drawn, but it is separated from that district only by the Avidtli of a single street. 

It is a building of 
fine appearance. It 
was erected by the 
Massachusetts Char- 
itable Mechanic 
Association, and was 
for a long time 
under the manage- 
ment of the veteran, 
Paran Stevens. It 
was, of course, 
named in memory of 
Paul Revere, the 
patriotic mechanic 
of Boston before 
a n d during the 
Revolution, and the 
tirst president of the 
Charitable Mechanic 
Association. Col- 
onel Revere was a 
companion and fel- 

Revere House. JoW - WOrkcr W i t h 

Samuel Adams, James Otis, Joseph AVarren, and others of the leaders of opin- 
ion in the days of the Stamp and Tea Acts. The versatile colonel appears in 
the first Directory of Boston, for 1789, as a goldsmith doing business at No. 
50 Cornliill, — now Washington Street. Tlie hotel Avhich bears his name has 
entertained more distinguished men than any other in Boston. The Prince of 
Wales occupied apartments in the Revere on his visit to the city in 18G0 ; Gen- 
eral Grant was several times a guest of the house ; and in the winter of 1871 it 
was the headquarters of the Grand Duke Alexis of Russia. The Revere is 
situated in Bowdoin Sqiuire. In 1885 the interior was rearranged and the cafe 
enlarged and decorated. The house is conducted on the American plan. 

In Brattle Street is another long established and comfortable hotel, — the 
Quincy House. This also was in 1885 extensively enlarged and modernized. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



21 



Near the Quiney, facing Brattle Square for many years, the famous Brattle 
Square Church stood. This was long- known as the Manifesto Church, the 
original members having put fortli in 1699, just before their church was dedi- 
cated, a document declaring their aims and purposes. While themselves 
adopting the belief _^ _ 

which was then uni- 
versal among the 
Congregational 
churches of the 
time, they conceded 
the right of differ- 
ence of belief 
among the mem- 
bers. They also 
abolished the dis- 
tinction between 
c h u r c h and con- 
gregation. Expect- 
ing a difficulty in 
getting ordained in 
Boston, their first 
minister was or- 
dained in London. 
The modest church 
edifice built in 1699 
was taken dowTi in 
1772, and the sec- 
ond building erect- 
ed on the same spot Brattle Square Church (demolished in 1872.) 

was dedicated on the 25th of July, 1773. During the Revolution the pastor, 
who was a jiatriot, was obliged to leave Boston, services were suspended, and 
the British soldiery used the building as a barrack. A cannon-ball from a bat- 
tery in Cambridge or from a ship of war in Charles River struck the church ; 
and this memento of the glorious contest was afterwards built into the external 
wall of the building, above the porch. Among the long line of eminent clergy- 
men who have been pastors of this church, may be mentioned the late Edward 
Everett, and John G. Palfrey. The old church Avas sold in 1871, and the last 
service was held in it July 30 of that year, a memorial sermon being preaclied 
on that occasion by the pastor, Rev. Dr. S. K. Lothrop. The ancient pulpit, 
the old bell, the organ, the historic cannon-ball, and some other mementoes, 
were reserved at the sale. The society built a new church in the Back Bay 
district which is noticed elsewhere. 

Two of the most noticeable, though not the most extensive, of the street 
improvements of recent years, have taken place within the district we have de- 




22 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

fined as the North End. The first was the removal of an nninteresting old 
structure, a landmark and meeting-place in the Boston of a dozen years ago, 
known as Scollay's Building, and the creation thereby of what is now called 
ScoUay Square. This square is the most irregular of triangles. Court Street 
empties into it in the most curious way possible, and for a time the left side of 
the street is lost. It is Tremont Row where it ought to be Court Street. Then 
the right side is similarly lost. Court Street and Sudbury Street being sepa- 
rated by as invisible a line as is the equator. But finally both parts of the street 
resume their course after a space where there is no Court Street, until the won- 
derful avenue loses itself at last in Bowdoin Square. Scollay Square is now 
a sort of street-railroad centre. Within it is the bronze statue of Governor 
Winthrop, a duplicate of that standing in the Capitol at Wasliington. It rep- 
resents Winthrop as he landed in the New World. The right hand holds the 
colony charter, and the left the volume of the Scriptures. The statue is by 
Richard S. Greenough. It was put in place in September, 1880. 

The other improvement is the extension of AYasliington Street to Haymarket 
Square and the Boston and Maine Railroad Station. The new street was 
opened in 1874, having cost over 81,500,000, and makes a marked improve- 
ment in that section of the city. Near its union with the older part of 
Washington Street it broadens into an irregular triangle, extending towards 
Faneuil Hall, and bordered on two sides by imposing business blocks of 
light-colored stone. Tliis triangle is now called Adams Square. In about the 
centre of it is the Samuel Adams statue from which tlie open space takes its 
name. This is by Miss Anne Whitney, and was put in place in June, 1880. 
It represents the patriot as lie is supposed to have appeared after demanding 
from Hutchinson and his council the removal of the British troops from Bos- 
ton, after the " Boston Massacre," and awaiting the reply to his demand. 

Washington Street now makes a straight line from State Street to the Bos- 
ton and Maine Station, whence it is prolonged by Charlestown Street .to the 
Charlestown Bridge. Near the meeting-point of Washington and Charlestown 
Streets is the Roman Catholic Church of St. Mary (on Endicott Street), one of 
the largest religious edifices in Boston, with a beautiful altar of many-colored 
marbles. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 23 




III. THE WEST END. 

fHE AVest End, like the North End, is difficult to define. We have 
already inclnded in the latter division a part of what is usually 
termed the West End, and we must now, for convenience' sake, 
embrace within the limits of the West End a part of the South 
End. Our division includes all that part of the city south and west of Cam- 
bridge, Court, and Tremont Streets, to the line of the Boston and Albany 
Railroad, following the line of that railroad to Brookline. These boundaries 
take in the whole of Beacon Hill, the Common and Public Garden, and most 
of the Back Bay new land, which is sometimes called the " New West End." 

It has already been said that Beacon Hill, the highest in Boston, has been 
shorn of its original proportions. It is to-day neither very steep nor very 
high, nor is it easy to convey any intelligible idea of its original character by 
giving the altitude of its highest point above the level of the sea. The three 
peaks of the original " Trea Mount " were where Pemberton Square and Lou- 
isburg Square now are, and the site of the old Reservoir. The hill was cut 
down in the early years of the present century, and Mount Vernon Street was 
laid out at that time ; but it was not until 1835 that the hill where Pemberton 
Square now is was removed, and that Square laid out. Beacon Hill obtained 
its name from the fact that, for almost a century and a half from the settlement 
of the town, a tall pole stood upon its summit, surmounted by a skillet filled 
with tar, to be fired in case it was desired to give an alarm to the surrounding- 
towns. After the Revolution a monument took its place, which stood until 
1811, and was then taken down to make room for improvements. 

The highest point of the hill in its present shape is occupied by the Massa- 
chusetts State House, an illustration of which is given on page 30. So prom- 
inent is its position that it is impossible to make a comprehensive sketch of 
the city that does not exhibit its glistening dome as the central point of the 
background. The land on which the State House stands was formerly Gov- 
ernor Hancock's cow-pasture, and was bought of his heirs by the town and 
given to the State. The corner-stone was laid by the Freemasons, Paul Re- 
vere grand master, in 1795, Governor Samuel Adams being present and mak- 
ing an address on the occasion. It was first occupied by the Legislature in Jan- 
uary, 1798. In 1853-56 it was enlarged at the rear by an extension northerly 
to Mount Vernon Street, an improvement which cost considerably more than 
the entire first cost of the building. In 1866 and 1867 it was very extensively 
remodelled inside, and in 1874 was again repaired, and the dome was gilded. 

There are a great many points of interest about the State House. The 



24 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



statues of Webster and Mann, on either side of the approach to the bmldins. 
will attract notice, if not always admiration. Within the Doric Hall, or 
rotunda, is the fine statne of AVashington, by Chantrey ; here are arranged m 
an attractive manner, behind glass protectors, the battle-flags borne by Massa- 
chnsetts soldiers in the war agahist Rebellion ; here are copies of the tomb- 
stones of the Washington family in Brington Parish, Lngland presented to 
Senator Simmer by an English nobleman, and by the former to the State ; here 
is the admirable statne of Governor Andrew ; here are the busts of the patriot 
hero Samuel Adams, of the martyred President Lincoln, of Senator Sumner, 
and of Vice-President Wilson ; near by are the tablets taken from the monu- 
ment iust mentioned which was erected on Beacon Hill after the Revolution 
to commemorate that contest. Ascending into the Hall of Representatives, we 
find suspended from the ceiling the ancieut codfish, emblem of the direction 
taken by Massachusetts industry in the early times. In the Senate Chamber 
there are also relics of the olden time, and portraits of distmgmshed men. 

From the cupola, which is always 
open when the General Court is 
not in session, is to be obtained 
one of the finest views of Boston 
and the neighboring country. A 
register of the visitors to the cu- 
pola is kept in a book prepared 
for the purpose. During the sear- 
son, which lasts from the 1st of 
Jime until Christinas, nearly fifty 
thousand persons ascend the long 
flights of stairs to obtain this view 
of Boston and its suburbs, an av- 
erage of three hundred a day. 

The statue of Governor Andrew 
in Doric Hall is one of the most 
excellent of our portrait statues. 
It represents the great war gov- 
ernor as he appeared before care 
had ploughed its lines in his face. 
This statue was first unveiled to 
public view when it was presented 
to the State on the 14th of Feb- 
ruary, 1871. It was paid for out 
of the surplus remaining of the 
fund raised in 1865 for the erec- 
tion of a statue to the late Edward 
Everett. The portrait of Everett 
The Andrew Statue. HOW iu Faueuil Hall was also pro- 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



25 



ctirecl and paid for, and a considerable snni was voted in aid of the equestrian 
statue of Washington, whieh stands in the Public Garden, from the surplus of 
this fund. The sculptor was Thomas Ball, a native of Charlestown, but long- 
resident in Florence, Italy. In 1883 he had a studio in Boston. Tlie marble 
is of beautiful texture and wliiteness, and the statue is approved botli for its 
admirable likeness of the emiiu'ut original and for its artistic merits. 

Thei'e is nothing in Boston of which Bostonians are more truly proud than of 
the Common. Other cities have larger and more pretentious public grounds ; 
none of them can boast a park of greater natural beauty, or better suited to the 
purposes to which it is put. Everything is of the plahiest and homeliest char- 
acter, the velvety greensward and the over-arching foliage being the sufficient 
ornaments of the place. There is, however, the Frog Pond, with its fountain, 
where the boys may sail their miniature ships at their own sweet will ; and there 
was until 1882 the deer park, a delightful and popular resort for the young- 
est of the visitors to this noble public space. Here, also, on one of the little 
hills near the Frog Pond, is the elaborate soldiers' and sailors' monument. All 
the malls and paths are shaded by fine old trees, which formerly had their 
names conspicuously labelled upon them, giving an admirable opportunitj^ for 
the study of what we may call grand l)otany. 

The history of the Connnon is most interesting. After the territory of Bos- 
ton was purchased -\.j^^ffii£i^'~JJ!V>'» 
from Mr. Blaxton 
by the corporation 
of colonists who set- 
tled it, the land was 
divided among the 
several inhabitants 
by the officei-s of 
the town. A part 
of it was set off as 
a training-field and 
as common ground, 
subject originally 
to further division 
in case such a course 
should be thought 
advisable. In 1640 
a vote was passed 
by the town, in con- 
sequence of a move- 
ment on the part of 
certain citizens that 
was discovered and 
thwarted none too soon, that, with the exception of " 3 or 4 lotts to make vp y* 




26 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

streete from bro Robte Walkers to y° Eoimd Marsh," no more land should be 
granted out of the Common. It is solely by the power of this vote and the 
jealousy of the citizens sustaining it that the Common was kept sacred to the 
uses of the people as a whole from 1640 until the adoption of the city charter, 
when, by the desire of the citizens, and by the consent of the Legislature, the 
right to alienate any portion of tlie Common was expressly withheld from the 
city government. 

The earliest use to which the Common was put was that of a pasture and a 
training-field on muster days. The occupation of the Common as a grazing- 
field continued until the year 1830, but it was by no means wholly given up to 
that use. As early as 1675 an English traveller, Mr. John Josselyn, published in 
London an " Account of Two Voyages," in which occurs the following notice of 
Boston Common : " On the south there is a small but pleasant Common, where 
the Gallants a little before sunset walk with their il/(»vn a ?e^Madams, as we do 
in Moorfields, etc., till the nine a clock Bell rings them home to their respec- 
tive habitations, when presently the Constables walk their rounds to see good 
orders kept, and to take up loose people." Previous and long subsequent to 
this the Common was also the usual place for executions. Four persons at 
least were hanged for witchcraft between 1656 and 1660. Mtu-derers, pirates, 
deserters, and others were jiut to death under the forms of law upon the Com- 
mon, until, in 1812, a memorial, signed by a great number of citizens, induced 
the selectmen to order that no part of the Common should be granted for such 
a purpose. Those who have studied the history of Boston most closely are of 
opinion that on more than one occasion a branch of the great Elm, which stood 
until 1876, was used as the gallows. And near that famous tree was the scene 
of a lamentable duel, in 17:28, resulting in the death of one of the principals, B. 
Woodbridge. The level ground east of Charles Street has been used from the 
very earliest times as a parade-ground. Here take place the annual parade 
and drum-head election of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company, the 
oldest military organization in the country, and liere the Governor delivers to 
the newly elected officers their commissions for the year. 

The original boundary of the Common was quite different from the present. 
On the west it was bounded by the low lands and flats of the Back Bay ; on the 
jiorth by Beacon Street to Tremont Street ; thence by an irregular line to 
West Street ;" and thence to the corner of Boylston and Carver Streets, and 
upon tJiat line to the water. Upon that part bounded by Park, Beacon, and 
Tremont Streets were once situated the granary, the almshouse, the workhouse, 
and the bridewell. In 1733 a way was established across the Common where 
Park Street (which was formerly called Centry Street) now is. Since the es- 
tablishment of that street, the land occupied by the institutions above named 
has been sold for private purposes. Compensation has been made to some ex- 
tent by the addition of the land in the angle between Tremont and Boylston 
Streets. The land for the burying-ground was bought by the town in 1756, 
and that part where the deer park was situated in 1787. On the west a con- 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



27 



siderable piece was cut off when Charles Street was laid out, in 1803, but here 
also there was rather a gain than a loss, since the piece so amputated was en- 
larged by filling flats, and added to the public grounds. The area of the Com- 
mon is now forty-eight and a quarter acres. 

The site of the Old Elm is now partly occupied by two young descendant 
trees. The Old Elm 
was certaiidy the old- 
est known tree in 
New England. On 
the great branch 
broken oft" by the 
gale of 1860 could be 
easily counted nearly 
two hundred rings, 
carrying the age of 
that branch back to 
1670. It is surmised 
that the supposed 
witch, Ann Hibbens, 
was hanged upon it 
in 1656, and if so, it 
could have hardly 
been less than 
twenty-six years old, 
which would make 
the Old Elm as old 
as the town of- Bos- 
ton. A gale in 1832 '^^^ ^^^ ^''^' ^°'^°" Common. 
caused the tree much injury, and the limbs were restored to their former places 
after which they were secured by iron bands and bars. The great gale of 
June, 1860, tore off the largest limb and otherwise mutilated it, and again it 
was restored as far as was possible, and the cavity filled up and covered. In 
September, 1809, a high wind that blew down the spires of many churches in 
Boston and vicinity made havoc with the remaining limbs ; and in 1876 what 
was left of the venerable tree was blown down. 

The Frog Pond was, probably, in the early days of Boston, just what its 
name indicates, — a low, marshy spot, filled with stagnant water, and the abode 
of the tuneful batrachian. The enterprise of the early inhabitants is credited 
wdth having transformed it into a real artificial pond. This pond was the scene 
of the formal introduction of the water of Cochituate Lake into Boston, on the 
25th of October, 1848. The water was let on thrcnigh the gate of the fountain, 
amid the sliouts of the people, the roar of cannon, the hiss of rockets, and the 
ringing of bells. 




28 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 




"O 



The burying-gromul on Boylston Street, formerly known as the South, and 
later as the Central Burying-ground, is the least interesting of the old ceme- 
teries of Boston. It was opened in 1756, but the oldest stone, with the excep- 
tion of one which was removed from some other ground, or wliich perpetuates 
a manifest error, is dated 1761. The best-known name upon any stone in the 
graveyard is that of Monsieur Julien, the inventor of the famous soup that 
bears his name, and the most noted restaurateur of Boston in the last century. 
His public-house was for many years on the corner of Milk and Congress 
Streets. He died in 1805, but his famous soup still flourishes. It is probable 

that this graveyard was early 
used for the interments of 
Roman Catholics, and stran- 
gers dying in the town, whose 
homes were in distant lands 
as well as in other parts of 
the new country. It is a 
tradition that several of the 
British soldiers who died from 
their wounds received at 
Bunker Hill or from disease, 
in the barracks, during the 
siege, were buried here. But 
there is nothing to indicate 
tbis, and the statement is 
Tiie B:Lwei Fountain. questioned. Drake, however, 

says that they were buried in a common trench, and that years afterward 
many of the remains were exhumed when changes in the northwest corner of 
the yard were made. This burying-ground fornunly extended to Boylston 
Street, and it was contracted to its present dimensions when the Boylston Street 
mall was laid out in 1839. The portion of the Common occupied by it and the 
now abandoned deer-park to the east of it, was not ii part of the Common as 
originally bounded, but was purchased for it in after years. 

One of the most conspicuous objects on the Common, standing in the lawn 
near the Park Street wall, is the Brewer fountain, the gift to the city of the 
late Gardner Brewer, Esq., which began to play for the first time on June 3, 
1868. It is a copy, in bronze, of a fountain designed by the French artist 
Li^nard, executed for the Paris World's Fair of 1855, where it was awarded a 
gold medal. The great figures at the base represent Neptune and Aniphitrite, 
Acis and Galatea. The fountain was cast in Paris, and was procured, broiight 
to this country, and set up at the sole expense of the public-spirited donor. 
Copies in iron have been made for the cities of Lyons and Bordeaux ; and an 
exact copy, in bronze, of the foiuitain on the Comnaon was made for Said Pacha, 
the late Viceroy of Egypt. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



i9 



The Soldiers' aud 
Sailoi's' Monument, on 
the liill near the Frog- 
Pond, was designed by 
Martin Milmore, and 
dedicated on September 
17th, 1877, when the en- 
tire militia force of the 
State paraded in Boston, 
and was reviewed by the 
President of the United 
States. The platform is 
thirty-eiglit feet square, 
and rests on a mass of 
subterranean masonry 
sixteen feet deep. Four 
projecting- pedestals sus- 
tain four bronze statues, 
each eight feet high, 
representing Peace, a 
female figure bearing an 
olive-branch and looking 
to the South ; the Sailor, 
a picturesque mariner 
carrying a drawn cut- 
lass, and looking sea- 
ward; History, a grace- 
ful female figure, in 
Greek costume, holding 
a taV)let and stylus, and 
looking- upward ; and the 
Soldier, perhaps the best 
statue on the monument, 
representing a Federal 
infantryman standing at 
ease, and bearing the 
face of a citizen-soldier 
rather than that of a pro- 
fessional warrior. Be- 
tween these pedestals 
are four large bronze reliefs. In the front is " The Departure for the War," 
with a regiment marching by the State-House steps, the mounted officers, from 
left to right, being Colonels Lowell and Shaw, both of whom were killed. 
Colonel Cass, General B. F. Butler, and Quartermaster-Gen. Reed. On the 
steps are the Revs. Turner Sargent, A. H. Vinton, Phillips Brooks and Arch- 




Army and Navy Monument, 
Boston Common. 



30 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

bishop Williams ; Governor Andrew, shorter than the others ; Wendell Phil- 
lips, Mr. Whitmore, the poet Longfellow, and others. The second bas-relief 
shows the work of the Sanitary Commission, the left-hand gronp being on duty 
in the field, with the Rev. E. E. Hale at its head; and in the other group the 
seven gentlemen are E. R. Mudge, A. H. Rice, James Russell Lowell, Rev. 
Dr. Gannett, George Ticknor, W. W. Clapp, and Marshall P. Wilder (from left 




State House. 

to right). "The Return from the War" is the most elaborate of the reliefs, 
and contains forty figures. The veterans are marching by the State House, 
and are surrendering their flags to Governor Andrew, while joyful wives and 
children break the ranks of the regiment. The mounted officers are Generals 
Bartlett, Underwood, Banks, and Devens (from left to right) ; the civilians are 
Dr. Reynolds, Governor Andrew, Senator Wilson, Governor Claflin, Mayor 
Shurtleff, Judge Putnam, Charles Sumner, C. W. Slack, James Redpath, and 
J. B. Smith. The fourth relief represents the departure of the sailors from 
home (on the left) and an engagement between a Federal man-of-war and 
monitor and a massive Confederate fortress. 

The main shaft of the monument, a Roman-Doric column of wliite granite, 
rises from the pedestal between the statues; and at its base are four allegorv 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



81 



cal figures, in high relief and eight feet high, representing the North, South, 
East, and West. On top of the capital are foiu- marble eagles. The most 
j^rominent feature of the monument is the statue of America, eleven feet high, 
symbolized by a female figure, clad in classic costume, and crowned with thir- 
teen stars. In one hand she holds the American flag, in the other a drawn 
sword and wreaths of laurel; and she faces the south. 

The bronzes were cast at Chicopee, Mass., and at Pliiladelphia; and the stone 
is wliite granite from Hallowell. The monument bears the following inscrip- 
tion, written by the President of Harvard College : — 

TO THE MEN OF BOSTON 

WHO DIED FOR THEIR COUNTRY 

ON LAND AND SEA IN THE WAR 

, WHICH KEPT THE UNION WHOLE 

DESTROYED SLAVERY 

AND MAINTAINED THE CONSTITUTION 

THE GRATEFUL CITY 

HAS BUILT THIS MONUMENT 

THAT THEIR EXAMPLE MAY SPEAK 

TO COMING GENERATIONS. 

There are very few spots on the Common with which some Bostonian has not a 
pleasant association. Almost every citizen and visitor has rejoiced in the grate- 
ful shade of the 
Tremont Street 
Mall, or the arch- 
ing elms of the 
Beacon Street 
Mall, on a hot sum- 
mer's day. But the 
associations are by 
no means confined 
to the mere ex- 
perience of com- 
fort beneath the 
shadow of these 
wide - spread- 
ing trees. The 
inimitable Dr. 
Holmes has laid 
the scene of one 
of the pleasaiitest 
courtships in liter- 
ature at the head 
of one of the malls 
branching from 
the one which our B^^.^^ Street Mall. 




32 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



view represents. The " Autocrat of the Breakfast-Table " had engaged passage 
for Liverpool, that he might escape forever from the sight of the fascinating 
schoolmistress if she turned a deaf ear to his petition. Having thus provided a 
way of escape, he planned to take a walk with her. 

"It was on the Common that we were walking. The mall, or bonlevard of onr Common, 
you know, has varions branches leading from it in different directions. One of these runs 
down from opposite Joy Sti'eet, southward across the length of the whole Common to 
Boylston Street. We called it the long path, and were fond of it. 

" I felt very weak indeed (though of a thoroughly robust habit), as we came opposite the 
head of this path on that morning. I think I tried to speak twice without making nwself 
distinctly audible. At last I got out the question, ' Will you take the long path with me V ' 
' Certainly,' said the schoolmistress, ' with much pleasure.' ' Think,' I said, ' before you 
answer; if you take the long path with me now, I shall interpret it that we are to part no 
more ! ' The schoolmistress stepped back with a sudden movement, as if an arrow had 
struck her. 

"One of the long granite blocks used as seats was hard by, the one you may still see 
close by the Ginko-tree. 'Pray, sit down,' I said. 'No, no,' she answered, softly, 'I will 
walk the lonr/jicUh with you.' " 

The history of the Public Garden is shorter and less interesting than that of 
the Common. Before the improvement of this part of the city was begun, a 








large part of what is now the Public Garden was covered by the tides, and 
the rest was known as " the marsh at the foot of the Common." In 1794, 
the old ropewalks having been burned, the town voted to grant these flats for 
the erection of new ones. It was not until many years later that the folly 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



33 



of this act was seen, — indeed, not until after the construction of the Mill-dam, 
now the extension of - - 

Beacon Street, t o 
Brookline. When 
the tide had ceased 
to flow freely o\ei 
the flats, and the 
marsh so rashly 
granted had become 
dry land, the hold- 
ers of this property, 
having once moie 
lost their ropewalks 
by fire, in 1819, be- 
gan to realize its 
value, and proposed 
to sell it for busi- 
ness and dwelling 
purposes. Charles 
Street had been laid 
out in 1803, and this 
increased the value 




The Pond, Public Garde 



of building-lots on the tract, if it could be sold. 




The Bridge, Public 



The proposed action was, 
however, resisted, 
and finally, in 1824, 
- the city paid up- 

wards of $50,000 
J to legain what the 
' town had, in a fit 
of generosity, giv- 
S en away. But for 
a lone time after 
t^:f (Ins very little was 
" done t o ornament 
I n d improve the 
Tub lie Garden, 
llicre was, until 
~~' is 59, when an act 

of the Legislature 
and a vote of the 
_ cit} settled the qiies- 

-- tion finally, a small 

^^ brt earnest party in 

iavor of disposing 



34 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



of the entire tract for building purposes. In the last twenty years much has 
beeil done to make the Public Garden very attractive ; and in recent years 
especial care has been bestowed upon the arrangement and cultivation of its 
flower-beds. One of the latest additions to the features of the Garden is its 
illumination nightly by the electric light. 

The area of the park is about twenty-four and a quarter acres. The Boyl- 
ston Street side is longer than the Beacon Street, and the Charles Street longer 
than the Arlington Street side. The pond in the centre is laboriously irregular 
in shape, and is wholly artificial. It contains rather less than four acres, and 
was constructed in 1859, almost immediately after the act of the Legislature 
relating to the Public Garden had been accepted. The central walk, from 
Charles to Arlington Streets, crosses this pond by an iron bridge resting on 
granite piers, erected in 1867. The appearance of unnecessary solidity and 
strength which this bridge presents gave point to numerous jokes in the news- 
papers of the day, by one of which it was called the " Bridge of Size." The 
bridge is certainly strong enough to support an army on the march, and it looks 
much more substantial than it really is ; but there is very little opportunity for 
unfavorable criticism of the structure. 

The title of " Monumental City," so long borne by Baltimore, now belongs 
more surely to Boston, -vhere public memorials of various forms appear on 
every side, from the costly erections on Bunker Hill and the Soldiers' Monu- 
ment, to the statues which are placed upon the squares and public grounds in 
various sections. So important has this feature become, and so large are the 
possibilities of its future development, that the Boston Memorial Association 
lias been formed among the best men of the city, wisely and skillfully to direct 

and supervise the decoration of the streets, and 
to protect the interests of the highest art and 
the best sesthetic culture in this manner. 

There are several interesting works of art in 
the Public Garden. The one first placed there 
was a small but very beautiful statue of Venus 
Rising from the Sea, which stands near the Ar- 
lington Street entrance, opposite Commonwealth 
Avenue. The fountain connected with this 
statue is so arranged as to throw, when it is 
playing, a fine spray all about the figure of 
Venus, producing a remarkably beautiful effect. 
Further towards Beacon Street stands the mon- 
ument to " Commemorate the discovery that the 
inhaling of Ether causes Insensibility to Pain," 
presented by Thomas Lee, Esq., and dedicated 
in June, 1868. In the centre of the Beacon 
Street side stands the statue in bronze of the 
The Everett Statue. late Edward Everett. The funds for this 




BOSTON ILL USTRA TED. 



35 



statue were raised by a public subscription, in 1865. The remarkable success or 
this subscription has already been referred to. This statue was modelled in 
Rome by Story, in 18G6, cast in Munich, and presented to the city in Novem- 
ber, 1867. The orator stands with his head thrown back, and with his right 
arm extended in the act of making a favorite gesture. 

But the most conspicuous of all the works of art in the Public Garden 
is Ball's great equestrian statue of Washington, which stands in the midst of 
the central path near the Arlington Street main entrance. It is justly re- 
garded by many as one of the finest, as it is one of the largest, pieces of the 
kind in America. The movement which resulted in the erection of this monu- 
ment was begun in the spring of 1859. The earliest contribution to the fund 
was the proceeds of an oration delivered by the Hon. Robert C. Wiutlu'op in 
the Music Hall less than a month after the committee was organized. A great 
fair held in the same place in November of the same year, and an appropria- 
tion of ten thousand dollars from the city, supplied the greater part of the 
needful funds, supplemented 
in 1868 by a contribution of 
five thousand dollars of the 
surplus remaining after the 
erection of the statue of 
Everett just mentioned. Tht 
statue was unveiled on tin 
3d of July, 1869. It is ,i 
matter of no little local pridt 
that all the artists and ait- 
isans employed in its pro- 
duction were furnished by 
Massachusetts. The statue 
represents Washington at a 
different period of his life 
from that usually selecttd 
by artists, and is all tliL 
more effective and original 
on that account. The out- 
line is graceful, and perfect- 
ly natui'al from every point 
of view, and the work re- 
veals new beauties the more ''^^ Washington statue. 
it is examined. It was cast in fourteen pieces, but the joints are invisible. The 
extreme height of the pedestal and statue is thirty-eight feet, the statue itself 
being twenty-two feet high. The foundation, which rests upon piles, is of 
solid masonry eleven feet deep. The lamented Governor Andrew was one 
of the original committee which undertook the direction of this work, but he 
died before its completion. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



On the Boylston Street side of the Public Garden is the bronze statue of 

Charles Sumner, by Thomas 
Ball, erected in 1878, at a cost 
of .$15,000. It is nine and a 
half feet liigh, and the pedes- 
tal is a massive block of gran- 
ite. It represents Sumner as 
standing, in the delivery of an 
oration, holding a roll of manu- 
script in the left hand, while 
the right hand is extended 
downward in gesture. 

It has been remarked that 
the irregular piece of territory 
bounded by Beacon, Tremont, 
and Park Streets was origin- 
ally a part of the Common. 
AVithin this territory, and close 
by one of the busiest spots in 
Boston, is the Old Granary 
Burying - ground, one of those 
ancient landmarks which the 
good sense and good taste of 
its citizens have thus far pre- 
served. In 1660 it became 
necessary to appropriate new 
space to resting-places for the dead, and the tlu-ifty habits of our forefathers 
would not suffer them to buy land for the purpose when they were already in 
possession of a great tract lying in common. Accordingly, in the year before- 
mentioned, tliis graveyard was established. Two years afterwards, other por- 
tions of the territory now lost to the Connnon were appropriated for sites for 
the bridewell, house of correction, almshouse, and public granary. The last- 
named building, which stood at first near the head of Park Street, and after- 
wards on the present site of the Park Street meeting-house, gave to the bury- 
ing-ground the name by which it is so commonly designated. This is, without 
exception, the most interesting of the old Boston graveyards. Within this lit- 
tle enclosure lie the remains of some of the most eminent men in the history of 
Massachusetts and the country. The list includes no less than nine Governors 
of the Colony and State ; two of the signers of the Declaration of Independence ; 
Paul Revere, the patriotic mechanic ; Peter Faneuil, the donor of the market- 
house and hall that bear his name ; Judge Samuel Sewall ; six famous doctors 
of divinity; the first mayor of Boston; and a great many others of whom every 
student of American history has read. Upon the front of one of -the tombs, on 
the side next to Park Street Church, was once a small marble slab with the in- 







The Sumner Statue. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



37 



scription, " Xo. 10. Tomb of Haxcock ; " but nothing now marks the resting- 
place of the famous first si<;^ner of the Declaration of Indej^endence, and the 
first Governor o f 



Massachusetts un- 
der the Constitu- 
tion. In another 
part of the yard is 
the grave o f the 
great Revolution- 
ary patriot and Gov- 
ernor of the Com- 
monwealth, Samuel 
Adams. Near the 
Tremont House cor- 
ner of the burying- 
ground are the 
graves of the vic- 
tims of the Boston 
Massacre of 1770. 
The most conspicu- 
ous monument i s 
that erected in 1827 
over the grave 
where repose the 

parents of Benjamin Entrance to the Granary Burying-ground. 

Franklin ; it contains the epitaph composed by the great man, who, " in filial 
regard to their memory, placed this stone." Even the briefest reference to 
the notable persons who lie buried here would extend this sketch undul3\ Tlie 
stranger \x\\\ find the list with sufficient fullness displayed upon the bronze tab- 
lets fixed, by order of the city authorities, upon the gates of the main entrance 
to the yard. For many years a row of stately elms stood along the sidewalk 
in front of the Old Granary Burying-grouud. They were imported from Eng- 
land, and after having been for a time in a nursery at Milton, were set out 
here by Captain Adino Paddock, from whom the mall took its name, in or 
about 1762, Paddock was a loyalist, and a leader of the party in Boston. 
He left town with the British troops in 1776, removed to Halifax, and thence 
went to England ; but upon receiving a government appointment in the Island 
of Jersey he removed thither, and lived there until his death, in 1804. He 
was a carriage-builder, and his shop stood opposite the row of trees which he 
planted and cared for. The elms were carefully protected during the occupa- 
tion of the towni by the British. Until 1873 their right to cast a grateful shade 
upon the throng of pedestrians constantly passing and repassing on Tremont 
Street was respected. But in spite of very strong remonstrances they were 
in that year cut down. 

The Park Street church which stands between the Granary Burying-grouud 




38 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



and the Common is one of the 




Park Street Churcn 



the city for dwelling-houses, ar 
at No. 5; the Bos- 
ton headquarters 
of the publisliing 
house of Houghton, 
Mifflin & Company 
at No. 4, with the 
editor's room of the 
Atkntic Monthh 
the Union Chib, No 
8 ; and next the cor- 
ner of Beacon Street 
the stately h o n s t 
long the residence 
of the late George 
Ticknor. Our en- 
graving gives a view 
of Park Street with 
the Ticknor mansion 
and the Union club- 
house in the foie- 
ground. The foi- 
nier was erected 



leading churches of the Trinitarian Congrega- 
tional denomination. It was estab- 
lished in 1809. Its pastors have 
been able and popular men; among 
them the Rev. A. L. Stone, and 
the Rev. W. H. H. Murray, who, 
after filling the pastorate for more 
than six years, preached for some 
- -^ time to an inde- 

pendent church 
which he formed in 
Music Hall. The 
present pastor of 
the Park Street 
Church is the Rev. 
Dr. J. L. Withrow, 
formerly of India- 
napolis. 

On Park Street, 
which until recent 
years was promi- 
nent among the 
favorite streets in 
e the rooms of the New England Woman's Club 




V e of Pa k St eet 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



39 



many years ago, and was used as a residence till 1885, when it was altered over 
for bnsiness purposes. The original owner erected this and the two adjoining- 
dwelling-houses on Beacon Street as" a single residence, but the plan was after- 
wards changed, and Avliat was originally intended for one dwelling-house be- 
came tliree, all of ample size. Mr. Ticknor bought his estate of the late Har- 
rison Gray Otis, and began to reside there about the year 1830 ; and it was his 
Boston home until his death in 1870. 

The Union Club was founded in the year 1863, for " the encouragenient and 
dissemination of patriotic sentiment and opinion," and the condition of mem- 
bership was " unqualified loyalty to the Constitution of the Union of the United 
States, and unwavering support of the Federal Government in efforts for the 
suppression of the Rebellion." Its organization is continued to promote social 
intercourse. The present club-house was formerly the residence of the late 
Abbott Lawrence. The membership, which is limited to six hundred, in- 
cludes many of the best and wealthiest citizens of Boston. It has at present, 
however, no political character, and the condition of membership quoted above 
has been removed. 

Directly north of 
the Granary Burying- 
Ground is the Tre- 
niont House, a hotel 
that has for a long 
time enjoyed a de- 
served reputation for 
the excellence of its 
accommodations and 
its cuisine. It occu- 
pies the corner of 
Tremont and Beacon 
Streets, with its main 
entrance on Tremont. 
Its front of granite is 
plain and devoid of 
ornamentation. 1 1 
was built in 1828-29 
by a stock company 
organized for the pur- 
pose ; but in 1859 it 
was purchased for the 
Sears estate, of which 
it now forms a part. 
It has been several times enlarged, and was thoroughly renovated and modern- 
ized during the autumn of 1885. This house received President Johnson as a 
guest when he visited Boston on the occasion pf the dedication of the Masonic 




Tremont House. 



40 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



Temple in June, 1867. Years before, President Jackson was at one time its 
guest ; also Henry Clay. And during bis first visit to America Cbarles Dick- 
ens stayed bere. Tbe bouse is conducted on tbe American plan. 

The granite front building just beyond, on Beacon Street, occupying tbe cor- 
ner of Beacon and Somerset Streets, is tbe Vatican of Congregationalism, and 
contains tbe offices of tbe denominational paper, tbe headquarters and museum 
of tbe American Boax'd of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, tbe rooms of 
tbe Congregational Club, Pilgrim Hall, and tbe Congregational Library, a col- 
lection of over 25,000 volumes and 100,000 pamphlets in a handsome fire-proof 
ball. This structure was built just after the War of 1812, on the site of tbe 
first stone bouse in Boston, and was for a long time held by tbe Somerset Club. 
On Beacon at tbe corner of Bowdoin Street is tbe new Unitarian Building, 
completed in 1886, a notable addition to tbe denominational bouses of Boston. 

It is of brown 
stone ornamented 
with tasteful carv- 
ing. The inside is 
finished through- 
out plainly in oak. 
The large balls 
are finished with 
^ ^^ the masonry in 
^ ^ sight, and there 
'^-j are open fireplaces 
:i|^^~~* in all tbe different 
departments. 

To those for 
whom the sacred 
quietness and 
bookish odor of a 
great library have 
fascinating attrac- 
tions this part of 
Boston is fidl of 
jierennial interest. 
The buildings of 
the Boston Athe- 
nseuni and tbe 
New England 
Historic, Genea- 
logical Society are 
in this neighbor- 
hood ; .and near 
The Unitarian Building. by, on Tremont 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



41 



Street, is that of the Massachusetts Historical Society, described in the chapter 
on the Central 
District. The 
Athenfeum 
Building is at 
No. 10a Bea- 
con Street. It 
is built of free- 
stone, in the 
later Italian 
style of arclii- 
tecture. It 
cost nearly 
8200,000, and 
was first occu- 
pied in 1849. 
Within it is a 
library, now 
containing 
over 220,000 
volumes ; and 
a reading- 
room. The sci- 
entific library Boston Athenaeum. / 
of tlie American Academy of Arts and Sciences is also here, in the eastern room 
of the lower floor. The Athenfeum was incorporated in 1807, and had its ori- 
gin in a magazine called the " Monthly Anthology," first published in 1803. 
Soon after, a company of men zealous for literature organized the Anthology 
Club, and a public library and reading-room established by this club was the 
nucleus of the present institution. The right to use it is confined to the holders 
(and their families) of about 1,000 shares ; but the management is very liberal 
towards strangers. There is an absence of "red tape " in the general direction 
of the library that makes it one of the most delightful literary homes to be 
found anywhere. An art gallery used to be a fine feature of the Athenseum, 
but its contents were removed to the Museum of Fine Arts when that was 
established. A few large pictures, however, still occupy the walls by the stair- 
way, and some statuary is in the vestibule. 

The Historic, Genealogical Society's building is the handsome stone structure 
at No. 18 Somerset Street. It contains a valuable library of about 16,000 vol- 
umes, and a rare collection of antiquities. The society was founded in 1844, 
and has about four hundred members, each of whom, after his election, gives a 
written account of his descent. Its chief object is the study and publication of 
historical and genealogical facts about New England and her people ; and the 
results of its researches have been sent out in a number of goodly tomes. 




42 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



The collections here are accessible to all students of history, and are in constant 
use. The next house to that of the society, on the south, was the birthplace of 
Rear-Adiniral C. H. Davis, who destroyed the Confederate fleet off Memphis, 
in 1862. 

Also on Somerset Street, near Beacon Street, is the new building of the Boston 
University, a great Methodist institution, founded in 1869, and richly endowed 
by Isaac Rich, consisting of a group of colleges and schools, attended by both 
sexes. There are large and successful schools of law, medicine, and theology 
connected with it, situated in different parts of the city, and a college of liberal 
arts. The present building was completed in 1882, at a cost of ."JSOjOOO. It is 
built of pressed brick and terra-cotta. It contains the offices of the president 
and dean of the University and a meeting-room for the corporation ; large 
class-rooms, a " young men's study," and a " young ladies' study," — the latter 
a most inviting apartment, tastefully decorated and agreeably furnished, — 
a University chapel, and a large hall for public exercises. Tlie buildmg is 
called " Sleeper Hall," in honor of Jacob Sleeper, one of the founders of the 
institution. The Law School occupies a separate building near by, at No. 8 
Ashburton Place. 

At the foot of the hill, on Howard Street, near Somerset, is the Howard 
Athenseum, one of the oldest of the existing theatres in the cMy. It is now a 
" variety theatre," but in its day it has held a foremost place among the tliea- 
tres presenting the "legitimate drama." It was first opened October 13, 1845. 
On its boards the eminent comedian, William Warren, for years at the head 
of his profession, made his first appearance in Boston, in 1846. The theatre 
occupies the site of the Tabernacle erected by the " Millerites " in 1843-44. 

Returning to Beacon Street the stranger will observe on the low fence in 
front of one of the stately brown-stone houses just beyond the State House a 
tablet which announces that here once stood the Hancock Mansion, one of the 
most famous of the old btuMings of Boston that have been compelled to make 

way for modern improvements. This 
1 louse was in itself and in its surround- 
ings one of the most elegant mansions 
ni the city, though the style of architec- 
ture had wholly gone out of fashion 
long before it was taken down. It was 
built by Thomas Hancock in 1737, and 
was inlierited hy Governor John Han- 
cock. Both uncle and nephew were 
exceedingly hospitable, and were ac- 
customed to entertain the Governor 
and Council and other distinguished 
guests amiually on " Artillery Election 
Day ; " and it is said that every Gov- 
ernor of Massachusetts under the 
Constitution, until the demolition, was 




The Old Hancock House. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



43 



entertained once at least within this mansion. The house was taken down 
in 1863. 

The Somerset Chib 
was organized in the 
year 185 2, having 
grown out of another 
organization known as 
the Tremont Chib, and 
is now, as it has always 
been since it took its 
present name, a club for 
purelj' social purposes. 
The membership is lim- 
ited to six hundred. As 
has already beeiL stated 
the Somei'set Club oc- 
cupied until the year 
1872 the mansion at the 
corner of Somerset and 
Beacon Streets, now 
known as the Congre- 
gational House. At that 
time the club purchased 
its present house, a mag- 
nificent granite - front 
mansion. This house 
was built by the late 

David Sears, Esq., for Beacon street.- The Somerset Club. 

a private residence. The club found it necessary to make little alteration in 
the arrangement of the rooms, but it has thoroughly refitted and furnished 
them, and added other buildings. 

On the slope of the hill, a short distance below the Somerset Club-house, and 
nearly opposite the foot of the Common, stands the dwelling-house occupied by 
Mr. Ticknor's friend, the historian Prescott, during the last fourteen years of 
his life. It is unpretentious in arcliitecture, but it was fitted within m a 
style of great elegance, and was arranged specially with reference to Mr. 
Prescott's infirmity of partial blindness. Here the greater part of the work on 
his histories of the Spanish conquests was done. To this house he removed, 
in 1845, from his former home in Bedford Street, and in it he died in 1859. 

Across the Common, on Boylston Street, which bounds it on the south, is the 
Boston Public Library, one of the most beneficent institutions that has been 
conceived by the public-spirited and liberal citizens of Boston. The immense 
collection constituting this library, which has been gathered rapidly since its 
establishment, is valuable not only from the variety, excellence, and number of 




44 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



volumes it contains, l)ut from its accessibility. It is absolutely open to all, 

and no assessment, 
direct or indirect, 
is leaded upon those 
who make use of 
its privileges. Cit- 
izens and residents 
of Boston only, 
however, are al 
lowed to carry 
books away from 
the building. The 
library is conducted 
on the most liberal 
principles. If a 
purchasable book 
not in the library is 
asked for, it is or- 
dered at once; and 
the inquirer for it 
is notified when it 
i s received. Al- 
though the idea of a 
free public library 

had been entertained much earlier, it was not until 1852 that this institution 
was actually established. Very soon after the board of trustees was organized, 
Joshua Bates, Esq., a native of Massachusetts, but at that time of the house of 
Baring Brothers & Co., of London, gave to the city the sum of fifty thousand 
dollars, the income of which he desired should be expended in the purchase of 
books. The upper hall of the library building has been named Bates Hall in 
compliment to him. Generous donations and bequests by many wealthy and 
large-hearted men and women from time to time have swelled the permanent 
fund of the institution to upwards of S 100,000. Several valuable private col- 
lections have been acquired l)y the library. In 1871 the library of Spanish and 
Portuguese books and manuscripts belonging to the late George Ticknor, Esq., 
were placed in the library, in accordance with his Avill. This alone added more 
than 4,000 volumes and manuscripts to the library. In 1873 the famous Barton 
Library of New York, numbering about 12,000 volumes, one of the finest 
private libraries in the country, and especially rich in Shakesperian literatui'e, 
was purchased. The library of Theodoie Parker, numbering over 11,000 vol- 
umes, and that of Nathaniel Bowditch of about 2,500, have been added to the 
general collection, the former received under the will of Mr. Parker and the 
latter given by Mr. Bowditch's children; and the valuable historical and theo- 
logical collection, forming the famous Prince Library, bequeathed by Mr 




Boston Public Library. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 45 

Prince to the Old South, is deposited in the Library and is accessible to schol- 
ars and others conditionally. Large additions to the general library are made 
yearly, and it now numbers more than 450,000 volumes, and over 200,000 pam- 
phlets. The annual circulation amounts to about 1,300,000 separate issues. 
Thus this library is the first in the country in the number of issues and is su- 
perior in number of volumes to the Library of Congress. It has been in its 
present quarters since 1858, and several years ago outgrew the original capac- 
ity of the building. Various devices have since been resorted to in order to ac- 
commodate the large number of new volumes added annually. In 1880 land 
was given by the Commonwealth for a new library building, and this having 
been formally accepted by the city, a new structure is to be at once erected. 
The new location will be in the Back Bay district, occupying an entire lot on 
Boylston and Dartmouth Streets, and Copley Square. Branches of the Boston 
Public Library have been opened in East and South Boston, the South Yau\ and 
North End of the city proper, Roxbury, and Dorchester districts, while the 
libraries of Charlestown and Brighton became branches by annexation. These 
branches have from ten to twenty-five thousand volumes each. The reading- 
room in the main or central library building is open every day in the week, in- 
cluding Sundays. 

The building adjoining the Public Library building, on the corner of Boyls- 
ton and Tremont Streets, is the Hotel Pelham, the first apartment house, or 
" family hotel " on the " French flat" system, erected in the city. This was 
built about thirty years ago, and since its establislnnent the apartment-house 
system has been quite extensively introduced into Boston, a large number of 
costly and elegant apartment houses and family hotels having been erected 
within recent years. The Hotel Pelham is distinguished in its neighborhood as 
a building which has been successfully moved several feet without the slightest 
disturbance to its occupants. When Tremont Street was widened in 1869 this 
large structure was raised bodily and moved back about twenty feet. 

A few doors below the Public Library building, on Boylston Street, is the 
Central Club-house. This club was formerly a South End club, and its first 
club-house was on the corner of Washington Street and ^^'o^cester Square. 
Its present quarters were formerly occupied by the Art Club, and were leased 
after the removal of the latter club to its new club-house in the Back Bay dis- 
trict, — to be referred to in the description, to follow, of this district. The 
Central Club was organized in 1869, and its present membership is large. 
Near by the Central Club-house are those of the Whist and Tavern Clubs, so- 
cial organizations formed several years ago. 

In Park Scpiare, just off Boylston Street, nearly opposite the Providence 
Raili'oad Station, is the group of statuary known as the " Emancipation Group," 
commemorating the emancipation of the slaves by President Lincoln. The 
group was designed by Thomas Ball, in 1865. In 1873, a colossal copy of the 
same group was made for the " Freedmen's Memorial," at Washington. The 
face of the negro was a likeness of the last slave remanded to the South under 



46 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



the fugitive slave law, studied from photographs. The group now in Boston 
was presented to the city by the Hon. Moses Kimball, a public-spirited citizen, 
who long lived on Boylston Street nearby. It stands on a small triangular 
plat, and is surrounded by a granite retaiuing-wall and bronze railing, the 
pedestal being formed by two steps of Cape-Ann granite, and an octagonal 
block of polished red granite weighing sixteen tons. The bronze was cast at 
Munich and cost $17,000. The height of the entire work is nearly twentv- 
flve feet. It was unveiled December 6, 1879. 

The station of the Boston and Providence Railroad, although surpassed in 
size by a few structures of the kind, is inferior to none, in this country at least, 
in artistic beauty and in adaptability to the uses for which it was designed. It 




Prov'idence Railroad Station. 

consists of two distinct but connected parts. The train-house has a length of 
five hundred and eighty-eight feet and an extreme width of one hundred and 
thirty feet. The great iron trusses cover five tracks and three platforms. The 
head-house is two hundred and twelve feet long, and one hundred and fifty feet 
wide at the widest point, the lot on which it stands being very irregular in 
shape. In the centre of the head-house is a great marble hall, one hundred 
and eighty feet long, forty-four broad, and eighty high. It is imposing in its 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 47 

general effect and magnificent in its arcliitectural beauty an:l its ornamentation. 
Surroimding this hall are the waiting and other rooms for the accommodation 
of passengers, a periodical stand, baggage and package rooms, etc. A restaur- 
ant of superior character has been recently established in the building. The 
passenger-rooms have immense maps of the territory served by the road and 
its connections, and tables of distances, painted on the walls. A barber-shop is 
attached to the news-room. A fine gallery surrounds the hall above mentioned 
at a height of twenty-one feet, and from this access is had to the offices of the 
company and other apartments. The cost of this station was nearly one mil- 
lion dollars. The Providence Railroad has an excellent local business, serv-ing 
a great number of the towns in Norfolk and Bristol Comities by its main line 
and branches ; and it also forms part of the popular Shore (all rail) and Ston- 
ington (rail and steamboat) lines to New York. 

In the immediate vicinity of the Providence station is the tract known as the 
Church Street district, where one of the most beneficial enterprises the city has 
ever undertaken has been carried out witliin a few years. Tlie district was 
low, marshy, and unliealthy, but it was covered with permanent buildings. The 
city undertook to raise the whole district, and tliis it did at an expense of about 
a million dollars. In the course of this operation nearly three hundred brick 
buildings were raised, some of them fourteen feet, and the whole territory was 
filled in to a uniform height. 

Returning to Boylston Street again, at No. 85, opposite the Public Garden, is 
the club-house of the St. Botolph Club, one of the latest accessions to the clubs 
of the city. It includes many of the foremost citizens of Eastern Massachu- 
setts, and is the leading professional club in the city. It was formed in 1880, 
and immediately encountered the rigorous denimciation of the stricter clergy 
and religious press, on account of its failure to renounce the use of wines and 
liquors. The St. Botolph Club possesses a fine art gallery, and gives private 
exhibitions occasionally during the season. Francis Parkman, the historian, 
was the first president of the club. A new Club-house is projected. 

The filling in of the Back Bay lands, was a great improvement by which 
hundreds of acres have been added to the territorial extent of Boston and 
millions of dollars put into the State treasury; and the present elegant Back 
Bay district created. Private enterprise had already suggested this great im- 
provement when the State first asserted its right to a part of the flats in 1852. 
The owners of land fronting on the water had claimed and exercised the right 
lo fill in to low-water mark. In this way the Neck, south of Dover Street, 
had been very greatly widened. Commissioners were appointed in 1852 to 
adjust and decide all questions relating to the rights of claimants of flats, and 
to de\-ise a plan of improvement. Progress was necessarily slow where so 
many interests were involved, but at last all disputes were settled, and the 
filling was begun in good earnest. No appropriation has ever been made for 
work to be done on the Commonwealth's flats; the bills have been more than 
paid from the very start hy the sales of land. It was originally intended that 



48 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



there should be in the district filled by the State a sheet of water, to be called 
Silver Lake, but the idea was subsequently abandoned. A very wide avenue 
was, however, laid out through it, to be in the nature of a park, and the plan 
has been successfully developed. When completed. Commonwealth Avenue 
will be a mile and a half in length, with a width of two hundred and forty feet 
between the houses on each side. Through the centre runs the long park in 
which rows of trees have been planted, and these will, in time, make this avenue 
one of the most attractive in the country. There are wide driveways on either 
side ; and the terms of sale compel the maintenance of an open space between 
each house and the ample sidewalks. In the centre of the park, near Arling- 
ton Street, stands the granite statue of Alexander Hamilton, by Dr. William 
Rimmer, presented to the city in 1865 by Thomas Lee, Esq., who subsequently 




Commonwealth Avenue. 

erected, at his own expense, the " Ether Monument " in the Public Garden, 
before mentioned ; and further down the walk, near Clarendon Street, is the 
large bronze statue of General John Glover, the commander of the Marblehead 
marine regiment in the Continental Army. This statue was designed by Mar- 
tin Milmore and presented to the city by Mr. B. T. Reed, in 1875. Opposite 
the Vendome is the bronze statue of Wm. Lloyd Garrison, designed by Olin L. 
Warner of New York. It was placed here in 1886. The funds for its erection 
were raised by popular subscription. The nomenclature of the streets in this 
territory is ingenious, and far preferable to the lettering and numbering adopted 
in other cities. To the north of Commonwealth Avenue is Marlborough Street, 
and to the south Newbury Street, which names were formerly applied to parts 
of Washington Street before it was consolidated. The streets running north 
and south are named alphabetically, alternating three syllables and two, — Ar- 
lington, Berkeley, Clarendon, Dartmouth, Exeter, Fairfield, Gloucester, Here- 
ford, and so on. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



49 



Within the limits of this district are many of the finest churches in the city 
proper, and the movement of the religious societies westward and southward 
is exhibiting no signs of cessation. Some of the oldest societies in town have 
already emigrated to the Back Bay, and the nwre ancient parts of the city, 
whence population has largely removed, are comparatively bare of houses of 
worship. 

" The First Church in Boston," Unitarian, properly claims the first attention. 
Allusion has been made al- ^ %^ 

ready to the first and second 
houses of this society, in 
State a n d W a s h i n g t o n 
Streets. The present edi- 
fice on the corner of Marl 
borough and Berkeley 
Streets was occupied in 
December, 1868. This 
church was built at a cost of 
two hundred and seventy 
five thousand dollars, and is 
one of the most beautiful 
specimens of architecture in w^t.-s^ 
Boston. Especially fine aie 
the carriage-porch and the 
vestiljule on the Berkeley 

Street front. The wiiido\\ 

are all of colored glass, and jrp' 
were executed in England 
The organ, which is one of 

the best in the city, was ^"^'^ Church, Berkeley street. 

manufactured in Germany by the builders of the Music Hall organ. In every 
part of the building, within and without, are evidences of excellent taste and 
judgment, such as can seldom be seen in the churches of this country. The 
church can seat nearly one thousand persons. 

On the corner of Boylston and Arlington Streets stands the first church 
erected on the Back Bay lands of the Commonwealth. This society, like that 
of tile First Church, is attaclied to the Unitarian denomination. It is, however, 
tlie successor of the first Presbyterian church gathered in Boston. It was es- 
tablished in 1727, and its first place of worship was a barn, somewhat trans- 
formed to adapt it to its new use, at the corner of Berry Street and Long 
Lane, now Channing and Federal Streets. The second house, on the same site, 
was erected in 1744, and within it met the Convention that ratified the Consti- 
tution of the United States on the part of Massachusetts, in 1788. It was 
from this circumstance that Federal Street received its name. In 1786 the 
church had become small in numbers, and by a formal vote it renounced the 




60 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



Presbyterian form and adopted the Congregational system. Having ocenpied 
for fifty years the thii-d house on the origuial site, erected in 1809, the soci- 
ety was compelled, by the invasion of business and the removals of its people, 
to build the bouse in which it now worships. During the long period of 
years since the foundation of this famous society, it has had but seven pastors, 
though there was one interval of ten yeais when it had no regular pastor. The 

^. ^r-..- -- most noted 

of this brief 
listwas the 
Rev. Dr. Chan- 
ning, who was 
pastor from 
1803 untU his 
death in 1842. 
The Rev. Ezra 
S. Gannett was 
ordained and 
installed as col- 
league pastor 
in 1824, and re- 
m a i n e d col- 
league and sole 
pastor until his 
me lancholy 
d e a t h i n Au- 
gust, 1871, in 
the terrible ac- 
cident at Re- 
vere. Dr. Gan- 
nett was suc- 

Arlington Street Church. CCeded by tile 

Rev. John F. W. Ware, formerly of Baltimore. Mr. Ware dietl in 1881, and 
in 1882 the Rev. Brooke Herford, then of Chicago, was called to the pulpit. 
Mr. Herford is the present pastor. The church, on Arlington Street, is built 
of freestone, and is a fine structure, though less ornate in its architecture than 
many others. Its tower contains an excellent chime of bells. 

On Berkeley Street, corner of Newbury, is the Central Church. This society 
was gathered in 1835 to worship in a hall known as the Odeon, under the name 
of the Franklin-Street Church. In May, 1841, the corner-stone of a new church 
was laid on Winter Street, and the edifice having been completed, was dedi- 
cated on the last day of the same year, the society having a week previously 
assumed its present name. The transformation of Winter Street into a great 
centre of retail trade in the course of time compelled the abandonment of the 
church on this site, and in the autumn of 18G7 the present elegant house, which. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 51 

had been several years in bxiilding, was dedicated. It is constructed of Rox- 
bury stone with sandstone trimmings, and cost, mcludhig the land, upwards of 
three hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars. The great gale of September, 
1869, blew over one of the piimacles of the spire, which is the tallest in the 
city, upon the main building, and caused serious damage, which required 
several months to repair. Tlie interior of this church, notwithstanding an ex- 
cess of color, is remarkably beautiful. 

The most impressive and elaborate church building in this district is the 
Trinity, which fronts on the new Copley Square, and occupies the lot bounded 
by Clarendon Street, Huntington and St. James Avenues. Trinity parish is an 
offshoot from the King's Chapel congregation. In 1734 the cornei'-stone of its 
first church building was laid at the corner of Hawley and Sunmier Streets. 
In 1735 the building was opened for worship, and some years later the Rev. 
Addington Davenport became its first rector. The original edifice was of 
wood, with neither tower nor external ornament. It was a plain barn-like 
structure, Avith a gambrel roof, and standing gable-end to Summer Street. 
Inside, however, it was the most elegant church of the day in Boston. General 
Washington attended service in the old Trinity Church when he was in Boston 
ill 1789. Tliis church very early became one of the most famous Episcopal 
churches in Massachusetts. Its rectors were men of remarkable eloquence, 
and perhaps there have been more bishops appointed from the list of its min- 
isters and assistant ministers than from any church in the country. In 1828 
the old wooden building was taken down, and a handsome granite structure 
erected on its site. Soon after the Rev. Phillips Brooks became rector of the 
church, a movement began for a removal to a more eligible situation. All 
the preliminary steps had been taken when the fire of November, 1872, set- 
tled the matter irrevocably by destroying the old church. 

The new Trinity Church was consecrated February 9, 1877, when a proces- 
sion of three bishops and one hundred and four surpliced clergymen entered 
the main portal. The cost of the land and building was about S800,000. It is 
160 feet long, 120 feet wide at the transepts, the height of the nave being 63 
feet, and to the ceiling of the tower 103 feet. The chancel is 57 feet deep and 
53 feet wide, and contains rich stained windows, a hi'ass lectern, and a beautiful 
marble font. The finial on tlie tower is 211 feet from flie ground, and this 
immense and ponderous square tower is a conspicuous object from many parts 
of the city and harbor. It is roofed with red tiles from Akron, Ohio, with 
crockets along the corner slopes. The four sustaining piers are of Westerly 
granite, five feet square in section, plastered over and painted in deep colors, 
and resting on four unseen pyramids of blocks of stone weighing from one to 
four tons each. These are 17 feet high, being 35 feet square at the base and 7 
feet at the top, and rest on piles, 2,000 of which were driven closely in the 
tower space, and bound together with two feet depth of concrete. The walls 
of the churcli are of reddish Dedham and Westerly granite ashlar, with Long- 
meadow sandstone trimmings. The shape is that of a Latin cross, with a semi- 



52 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



circular apse at the east, and short transepts. It is connected with its chapel hy 
a handsome cloister. The interior is finished with black waliuit, and is lighted 
by many brilliant pictured windows. The sexton is present in the church from 
9 A.M. to 5 P.M. daily, and may be called at the side-door on Huntington Ave- 
nue. No visitors are admitted on Saturdays. 

The frescoes in Trinity Church are by John La Farge and several assistants, 
and are in encaustic painting, the colors being protected from dampness by a 




Trinity Church. 

mixture of wax and other substances. In the great tower he has painted colos- 
sal figures of David and Moses, Peter and Paul, and Isaiah and Jeremiah, with 
several scriptural scenes high above ; and in the nave is a fresco of Clu'ist and 
the Samaritan woman. The style of the construction of the building is a 
free rendering of the French Romanesque, as seen in the pyramidal-towered 
churches of Auvergue, and it endeavors to exemplify the grandeur and repose 
of the eleventh-century architecture in Aquitaine. Among the novelties of 
this quarter of the citj', something old and venerable amid all its newness and 
freshness, are the stones from old St. Botolph's Church, in Boston, Lincoln- 



BOSTON ILL USTRA TED. 



53 



shire, which the authorities of that church recently sent as a present to Trin- 
ity Church. Tliese mementoes of the parent society have been appropriately 
placed amid the sujierb surroundings of the daughter church, in the cloister 
between the church and chapel. On the corner of Clarendon and Newbury 
Streets is the uni(piely designed rectory of Trinity Church, the home of the 
Rev. Phillips Brooks. 

Another important ecclesiastical establishment is Emmanuel Church, occu- 
l)ying a handsome stone building on Newbury Street, not far from Trinity 
Church. This society is eminent for its large contributions for charitable and 
missionary purposes. It was organized in 1860, and the Rev. Frederick D. Hun- 
tington, now bishop of Central New York, was its first rector. For several 
years the late Rev. Dr. Alexander H. Vinton was rector. A memorial-tablet in 
his honor has lately been erected in the church. It is of bronze, about four feet 
high and two and a half feet wide. Occupying the greater space is a portrait 
of heroic size. The space about the head is a biographical inscrijjtion. The 
tablet was designed by Mr. St. Gaudens. 

The new Old South Church is near Trinity Churcli, at the corner of Boyls- 
ton and Dartmouth 
Streets, fronting 
200 feet on the 
former and 90 feet 
on the latter. It 
is a superb edifice 
of Roxbury a n d ■ 
Ohio stone and cost 
nearly $500,000. 
The form is that 
of a cross, 90 by 
198 feet in area, 
with 900 sittings ; 
and the architec- 
ture is the North- 
Italian Gothic. 
The great tower is 
an imposing struc- 
ture, 248 feet high, 
with rich combina- 
tions o f colored 
stones and grace- 
ful windows. An 
arcade, sheltering 
inscribed tablets, 
runs thence to the 

south transept. The New Old South Church. 




54 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

Along the walls is a belt of gray sandstone, delicately carved to represent rincs 
and fruit, among which animals and birds are seen. The vestibule is paved 
with red, white, and green marbles, and is separated from the nave by a high 
carved screen of Caen stone, supported on columns of Lisbon marble and crowned 
by gables and finials. At the intersection of the arms of the cross the roof 
opens up mto a lantern, 20 feet square, and covered on the outside by a pointed 
dome of copper, partly gilded. The effect of the interior, finished in cherry- 
wood and frescoed, is brilliant rather than solenm. The window back of the 
pulpit cost S2,500, and represents the amiouncement of Christ's birth to tlie 
shepherds. The south transept window illustrates the five parables ; that in 
the north transept, the five miracles; and those in the nave, the prophets and 
apostles. The organ has 55 stops and 3,240 pipes. There are three fine panels 
of Venetian mosaic over the heads of the doorways. Galleries were added in 
1885. In the rear of the church are the chapel and parsonage. 

Tlie Second Church occupies a neat bro\nistone edifice, the interior of wliich 
is strikingly handsome and in admirable taste, on the same square wth Trinity 
and the Old South. The present pastor is the Rev. E. A. Horton, formerly 
settled over the old Hmghani parish. The service is beautiful, and is largely 
choral in its character. The Second Church was anciently known as the Old 
North Church, and was founded m 1648, on North Square. It was the " Church 
of the Mathers," the thi-ee venerable doctors, Samuel, Increase, and Cotton 
Mather, having occupied the piilpit for 65 years of its first century. Ralph 
Waldo Emerson Avas minister to this society from 1829 to 1832, and was suc- 
ceeded, in 1833, by the Rev. Chandler Robbms. 

The stone church on the corner of Commonwealth Avenue and Clarendon 
Street was built by tlie society of the Brattle Square Church, whose former 
historic meeting-house with its " cannon-ball breastpin," wliich used to stand in 
Brattle Sqiuire, has been described. It was completed and dedicated in 1873, 
but it was not long occupied by the society, which found itself seriously in debt 
occasioned by the expense of the new structure. For a time the building was 
closed, and in 1876 the society constituting the Brattle Square Church was 
dissolved, the members having scattered during the time the church had re- 
mained closed, or had connected themselves with other societies. In 1881 the 
property was disposed of at public auction, and about a year later it was pur- 
chased by the First Baptist Society, the direct descendant of the much-perse- 
cuted First Baptist vSociety organized in 1665, the doors of whose first meet- 
ing-house were found one Sunday morning in 1680 nailed up by the marshal, 
by order of the court. The building is in the form of a Greek cross, with three 
rose-windows lighting the interior, which is seventy-eight feet high, and sur- 
mounted by a basilica roof of staine'd ash. The organ is very large and richly 
colored. The material of the building is Roxbury stone ; and the idea of tlie 
architect, to definitely express massiveness and solidity, has been well main- 
tained. The most striking feature is the ponderous square tower, one hundred 
and seventj-six feet high, which is surrounded (near the top) by a frieze con- 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 55 

taining colossal figures in high relief, carved by Italian sculptors, from Bar- 
tholdi's designs, after the rough stone had been placed in position. The four 
groups represent the four Christian eras, Baptism, Communion, Marriage, and 
Death, — one on each face of the tower, — and at the corners of the frieze are 
colossal statues typifying the Angels of the Judgment, with golden trumpets. 
The present owners have made extensive alterations iu the interior of the 
«hurch, and built a new vestry in the rear. 

The triangular open place in front of Trinity Church had for some years 
been informally called Art Square, in recognition of the rich treasures of art 
and architecture surrounding it ; but it is now known as Copley Square. From 
this point the noble boulevard of Huntington Avenue stretches away to the 
southwest for over two miles, with a width of one hundred feet, to the inter- 
section of Tremont and Francis Streets. The new lines of Brookline and Long- 
wood horse cars run through Tremont and Boylston Streets over this avenue. 

The Museum of Fine Arts is on Copley Square, near Trinity Church, at the 
corner of St. James Avenue and Dartmouth Street. It will ultimately be a 
large pile of buildings enclosing two courts by a double quadrangle. The 
architecture is Italian Gothic, and the material is brick, with rich and abundant 
exterior trimmings, mouldings, and roundels in red and buff terra-cotta work. 
The main front is already finished, and faces Copley Square, with a projecting 
portico, in tlie (tentre, enriched with polished marble columns. The right wing 
is adorned with a great bas-relief representing Art receiving the tributes of all 
nations ; and the left wing supports a companion-piece illustrating the union of 
Art and Industry. On Saturdays and Sunday afternoons admission to the Mu- 
seum is free ; and on other days twenty-five cents is charged. Anotlier quarter 
purchases the two valuable historical and descriptive catalogues, without which 
it is impossible to adequately understand and fully enjoy the collections, which 
are probably not inferior to those of any museum in the United States. The 
ground floor is devoted to statuary, antiquities, etc., the second floor to paint- 
ings, engravings, productions of industrial art, and bric-k-brac. In the base- 
ment is the School of Drawing and Painting, conducted by Frederick Crownin- 
shield and Otto Grundman, and the office of the curator. General Charles G. 
Loring. In the central hall on the ground floor are statues by Crawford, Rim- 
nier, Greenough, Hosmer, Monteverde, and others. The Egyptian room con- 
tains a fine collection of antiquities presented by Charles Granville Way, and 
the heirs of John Lowell. The other apartments on this floor are filled with 
casts from the antique, forming the most complete collection in America. 
There are also many valuable Etruscan, Cypriote and Grseco-Italian vases and 
other antiquities. Upstairs are the picture galleries, containing a small but ex- 
cellent collection of paintings owned by the Museum and the Athenseiim, rein- 
forced by loans. The ten pictures by Dutch and Flemish masters from the 
San Donato collection are good examples of Teniers, Cuyp, Ruysdael, Metsu, 
Kalf, Wouwermans, Van Huysum, Netscher, Maas and Vereslst ; there are 
j)aintings also attributed to Titian, Tintoret, Holbein, and other old masters ; 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. bl 

unimportant examples of Rubens, Greuze, David, Douw, and others ; portraits 
by Reynolds, Lawrence, Lely, Stuart, Copley, Newton, Smibert, Allston ; and 
paintings by Corot, Couture, Millet, Diaz, Fran^ais, Dore, and others. The 
Gray collection of engravings, belonging to Harvard College, the Sumner en- 
gravings, the Dowse collection of water colors, the drawings and sculptures by 
Dr. Rimmer (in the hall), should not be neglected by the visitor. In the ©ther 
rooms are rich tapestries, ancient carved panels and chests, Japanese and Orien- 
tal curiosities, rare embroideries, a large collection of porcelain, majolica, and 
Sevres ware, and all manner of carved ivory and precious stones, mediaeval re- 
ligious jewelry, medals and vases, ancient weapons, and fine laces. In the third 
story are series of chromo-lithographs and photographs from drawings by the 
old masters; All these collections are minutely described in the Museum cata- 
logues. 

On the corner of Clai*endon Street and St. James Avenue is a building es- 
pecially constructed for roller-skating, which has come to be a popular pastime 
here. It is called the Boston Roller-Skating Rink. It is an attractive build- 
ing of brick, and the interior is conveniently and agreeably arranged. The 
skating surface is about one hundred and eighty feet long and seventy feet 
wide ; and the floor is of smooth yellow-birch. 

The new Art club building is in the neighborhood of the Museum of Fine 
Arts, not far from Copley Square, on the corner of Dartmouth and Newbury 
Streets, with the main entrance on the latter. Its cost was about $80,000. It 
was determined upon a year before its occupancy, when the club had grown 
to its full limit of seven hundred members, and the old building on Boylston 
Street (now occupied by the Central Club) had become altogether too small for 
the club meetings, while the gallery was entirely inadequate for exhibiting the 
pictures sent for the semi-annual exhibitions. The rooms of the present club- 
house are very handsome, some of them elaborately decorated, and all richly 
furnished. The reading-room fire-place, a magnificent mass of wood carving, 
is one of the many fine features of the house. The gallery is generous in its 
proportions, and well lighted. At least two exhibitions are given every year. 

In this district of the city are several of the many semi-public institutions of 
the city. On the lot bounded by Berkeley, Newbury, Clarendon, and Boylston 
Streets stand the buildings of the Boston Society of Natural History, and the 
Massachusetts Institute of Technology, both institutions connected with the 
practical education of the people. Nearest to Berkeley Street on the right of 
our view is the Natural History Society's building. This society was incorpo- 
rated in 1831. Its early days formed a period of constant struggle for exist- 
ence, from lack of the necessary funds. But the munificence of several citi- 
zens, — one of whom. Dr. William J. Walker, gave, during his life and in his 
will, sums amounting in the aggregate to nearly two hundred thousand dol- 
lars, — and the grant of the land on which the building stands, by the State, in 
1861, have helped to a position of great usefulness. The cabinet of thissoeiety, 
which is exceedingly rich in very many branches of natural history, is open to 



68 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



the public for several hours ou every Weduesday and Saturday. There is also 
a fine library connected with the institution, and during the season interesting 
courses of lectures are delivered. 

Tlie Institute of Technology was founded in 1861 for the purpose of giving 
instruction in applied science and the industrial arts. It embraces a society of 
arts, a niuseuni of arts, and schools of industrial science and mechanic arts. 
The land which its buildings occupy was given by the State, and the Institute 
receives one third of the grant made by Congress to the States in aid of instruc- 
tion in agriculture, mechanic arts, and military tactics. The school of industrial 
science provides ten courses of study, — in mechanical, civil and mining engi- 
neering, chemistry, geology, building, and architecture, science and literature, 

natural history, 
metallurgy, 
and physics. 
There is also an 
elective course. 
One of the lat- 
est courses es- 
tablished t o 
meet a new de- 
mand arising 
from the ex- 
l^ansion of the 
telegraph and 
the introduc- 
tion of the tele- 
phone, is that 
o f electrical 
e n g i n e e ring. 

Society of Natural History and Institute of Technology. The Scliool of 

mechanic arts trains its students to become intelligent and practical mechanics. 
The Lowell Scliool of Design in which free instruction to both sexes is given in 
the art of practical design, making patterns for prints, silk, carpets, etc., is un- 
der the direction of the Institute. The main building of the Institute is a dig- 
nified structure of pressed brick with free-stone trimmings. The new building, 
corner of Boylstou and Berkeley Streets, is mainly devoted to the departments 
of chemistry and physics, for which it is admirably arranged. The mechanic 
arts shops are in another new building on Huntington Avenue. Huntington 
Hall, in the main buihling, is the place of meeting of the Society of Arts, and 
here also the Lowell Institute lectures are given. The gymnasium and drill- 
hall of the Institute are on Exeter Street. General Francis A. ^^'alker is presi- 
dent of the Institute. Over 700 students were instructed in the various de- 
partments in ISS,"). 

Nearly opposite the main building of the Institute of Technology, on the cor- 
ner of Berkeley and Boylstou Streets, is the new building of the Young Men's 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



59 



Christian Association which was completed in 1883. It is a strnctnre archi- 
tecturally fine, constructed of brick trimmed with stone. The principal en- 
trance on Boylston Street is approached by a flight of massive stone steps. 
The building contains reception, reading, and lecture rooms, parlors, a large 
hall capable of seating over a thousand persons, and an ample and thoroughly 




Young Men's Christian Association. New Building. 

equipped gymnasium. The receptions, lectures, reading rooms, classes, socia- 
bles, and gymnasium, make this a popular resort for young men. This associa- 
tion was founded in 1851, and is the oldest of its kind in the country. It was 
instituted for the special benefit of young men coming to the city as strangers, 
and designed to provide for them an attractive resort, pleasant companionship, 
and Christian influences. It has a large membership, and its work is varied 
and extensive. The Berkeley, a school for both sexes, is in this building. 

On Boylston Street, between Clarendon and Dartmouth Streets, is the build- 
ing of the Chauucy-Hall School, the oldest and in some respects most cele- 
brated private school in Boston. The health of pupils was the first considera- 
tion in planning this building. The arrangements for heating and ventilating 
are admirable in every respect. Another point to which special attention has 
been given is the construction of the school furniture. This was all desisjned 



60 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



with sole reference to the health and physical training of the pupils. The 
desks and chairs were adopted after examination and approval by a committee 
of surgeons of the highest rank. Equally careful attention has been given to 
the manner in which light is introduced. The construction of the walls and 
Hoors makes them substantially fire-proof. The Chauncy-Hall School was 
founded as long ago as 1828, and was a^ first located in Chauncy Street. Its 
present building was built and is owned by a stock company consisting of old 
graduates of the school, many of them now leading citizens of Boston. It 
receives pupils of both sexes and of all ages. Children of only four years ar« re- 
ceived and instruct- 



ed in the kinder- 
garten, and young 
men leave the 
school every year 
to enter the Insti- 
tute of Technology 
or Harvard Col- 
lege, while special 
students in various 
branches come to 
it from all parts of 
the Union. This 
school was the first 
in Boston to adopt 
the military drill. 
Ladd and Dauiell 
are the principals. 
One of the finest 
of the many fine 
public school build- 
ings of the city is 
not far from 
Chauncy Hall, — 
on the corner of 
Newbury and Exe- 
Chauncy-Haii School. ter Streets. The 

school located here is called the Prince School, so nauu'd in honor of Ex-Mayor 
Prince. In this building the rooms are placed on one side of a corridor, in- 
stead of grouped around a common hall in the centre, like most school build- 
ings. Thus better ventilation is secured, better light, and a more direct con- 
nection between the street entrances and the corridors into which the several 
school-rooms open. Tlie design is a central and two end pavilions, each of two 
stories only. The front on Newbury Street is one hundred and seventy-four 
feet. The building is constructed of brick with brown-stone trimmings. It 
was dedicated on November 11, 1881. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

■ '^^ ■ilil -"llilliiiiilili»li!!!!H^ 



Gl 



i:\ 




62 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

Oil the corner of Boylston and Exeter Streets stands the new building of the 
Harvard Medical School, completed in 1883. It is a large structure, of brick 
with red sandstone trimniings, and decorative panels of terra-cotta. It is four 
stories higli, and its Hat roof is surrounded by a sky-line of stone balustrades 
and low gables. The niain entrance is on Boylston Street. The interior is ad- 
mirably arranged for the convenience of instructors and students, and the lec- 
ture-rooms and laboratories are spacious and thoroughly equipped. The build- 
ing is practically fij-e-proof throughout. The former quarters of the Harvard 
Medical School were on North Grove Street, adjoining the Massachusetts Gen- 
eral Hospital. 

On the new Huntington Avenue is the great building of the Massachusetts 
Charitable Mechanic Association for the exhibition of American manufactures 
and mechanic arts. This association was founded in 1795, and received its in- 
corporation in 1806. It has been its practice for a long period to hold public 
exhibitions about every three years, and for many years these were held in 
Quincy Market and Faneuil Hall, which were connected by a bridge for the 
occasion. In 1860 the Association erected a fine building on the corner of 
Chauncy and Bedford Streets, at the cost of ??320,000, which is now occupied in 
part for business purposes, and by the Merchants' Association. In 1878 a 
temporary exhibition building was erected in Park Square, opposite the Boston 
and Providence station, and in 1880-1881 the })resent permanent exhibition 
building was erected. Here, in the autumn of 1881, the largest and most im- 
portant exhibition ever held by the Association was given. The building oc- 
cupies about seven acres on Huntington Avenue and West Newton Street. It 
is of brick with freestone trimmings and terra-cotta ornaments. An octagonal 
tower forms the easterly termination, where there are two spacious entrances, 
one from the carriage porch. The latter is built of brick and stone, with open- 
timbered and tiled roof. On the Huntington Avenue front are heads of Frank- 
lin, typifying electricity, and of Oakes Ames, typifying railroading. Span- 
drels of palm, oak, and olive branches, in which appear the arm and hammer 
of the seal of the Association, surround these. The " administration building," 
in which are the offices of the Association, is at the easterly end of the struc- 
ture ; and across the west end is the general hall. Between this hall and the 
administration building is the great exhibition hall, surrounded by broad galler- 
ies ; and below is an ample basement. The general hall, the largest in the city, 
is frequently let for musical and other entertainments. It has a fine entrance 
from Huntington Avenue. The first object of the Charitable Mechanic Associ- 
ation was the application of its annual income to the relief of unfoftunate me- 
chanics and those who are dependent on them. It has also loaned money to 
young mechanics and assisted in establishing schools and libraries for the use 
of apprentices. Among the early presidents of the Association were Paul 
Revere, who served four years ; Jonathan Hunnewell, nine years ; Benjamin 
Russell, fourteen years. During the autunm of 1883 an interesting foreign 
exhibition was given in the present exhibition building. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



63 



iitfflisi 




64 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

Passing from Huntington Avenue through Exeter Street to Newbury the 
new Hollis Street Church and the Eirst Spiritual Temple are reached. The 
former occupies one corner of these streets, the latter another ; while the Prince 
Schoolhouse, before mentioned, and the new building for the State Normal Art 
School occupy the others. The Hollis Street Church organization dates from 
1730. Its old meeting-house, built in 1810, part of whose walls are utilized in 
the Hollis Street Theatre which stands on its site, was historic. Among the 
pastors of the church have been John Picrpont and Thomas Starr King, men 
illustrious in New England literature. The present church building was com- 
pleted in 1884. Of brick with freestone and terra-cotta trimmings, its striking 
features are the corner tower, the lower part circular and the upper twelve- 
sided, which rises from the foundations sixty-five feet ; the gabled porch under 
which the main entrance on Newbury Street is reached ; and the large gables 
on each fa9ade, with circular turrets. Within, the large audience room is in 
the form of an amphitheatre. In the basement are lecture and class rooms, 
parlors, and kitchen. Rev. H. Bernard Carpenter is the present pastor of this 
church. 

The brown stone Spiritual Temple is a fine example of the Romanesque style 
of architecture. Its ornamented facade is especially attractive. The interior, 
while less striking than the exterior in its finish and decoration, is light and 
cheerfid, and well arranged. The large audience hall has sittings for 1,500 
people, and there are smaller halls, reading room, library, and parlors. The 
Temple was built as headquarters for the " Working Union of Progressive 
Spiritualists," and the entire cost, .$250,000, was met by a wealthy merchant, 
Marcellus J. Ayer. It was completed in 1885. It is the first meeting-house 
for Spiritualists erected in the city. 

Returning to Huntington Avenue and passing beyond the Charitable Me- 
chanic Exhibition building, the Children's Hospital, on the corner of the ave- 
nue and Camden Street, will be observed. This is in the immediate neighbor-- 
hood of the great structure erected by the New England Manufacturers' 
and Mechanics' Institute, an organization chartered in 1879, which gave a se- 
ries of brilliant industrial exhibitions during its career. The latter is now 
occupied by the Metropolitan Street Railway Company as a car biulding and 
repairing house. The Children's Hospital is a noble institution generously 
supported by benevolent j)eople. It was incorporated in 1809 and fii'st estab- 
lished in a house on Rutland Street, South End. Its growth was so rapid that 
it soon moved to a larger house, at No. 1583 Washington Street ; and not long 
after, these new quarters becoming inadequate, the present location was se- 
cured and a finely planned building of its own in part constructed. In this 
institution medical and surgical treatment is furnished children from two to 
twelve years of age, gratuitously if poor, or at a moderate charge only, if their 
parents or guardians are able to pay. No chronic or incurable cases, however, 
are admitted, nor are any affiicted with infectious or contagious diseases. A 
pleasant convalescent Home at Wellesley is maintained for the reception of 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED 



Qb 



patients from the hospital during the summer months. A full staff of physi- 
cians is connected with the institution, and the nursing is directed by the Pro- 
testant-Episcopal Sisters of St. Margaret. There is a large out-patient de- 
partment. The structure now standing is only one wing of the Hospital as 
it will ultimately be when completed according to the original plan. It is 
thoroughly constructed throughout, and especial care has been taken to secure 
the best ventilation and the most satisfactory sanitary arrangements. 

The hotels in the Back Bay section are fine structures in accord with their 
elegant surroundings. The Hotel Brunswick is at the corner of Boylston and 
Clarendon Streets. It is an immense six-story brick and sandstone building, 




Hotel Brunswick. 

containing .350 rooms. It was built m 1874, and cost nearly $1,000,000. It is 
sumptuously adorned and furnished inside, having two large dinmg-halls with 
marble floors and Pompeian walls, and a rich and costly " mediieval parlor." 
The Brunswick is kept on the American plan. 

The Hotel Vendome is also an elegant structure, occupying an advantageous 
position on the corner of Commonwealth Avenue and Dartmouth Street. The 
avenue front is built of white Tuckahoe marble, and the Dartmouth Street front 
of Italian marble. The building, including basement and Mansard roof, is 
eight stories high, and contains three hundred and sixty rooms. The plumbing 
of the house combines every recent improvement in workmanship and ventila- 
tion, and no open basins are placed in sleeping-chambers. The partition-walU 
5 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



67 



are all made of incombustible material ; and the whole structure is practically 
fire-proof. The main floor contains, besides its larger public rooms, suites of 
reception-parlors, tear-rooms, and several small private dining-rooms, decorated 
with artistic effect, and furnished in a luxurious manner. There are two pas- 
senger elevators in the house, one run by steam and the other by water ; be- 
sides a lift for baggage. The main entrance is on Commonwealth Avenue, 
with the ladies' entrance on Dartmouth Street. The house is partly lighted by 
electric light. 

The quai'ter to the west of Arluigtou Street and north of Boylston Street 
contains many interestuig specimens of domestic architecture, in the wide vari- 
ety of styles for wliich Boston is so famous. The predominant styles are the 
New (ireek, the French Renaissance, and the English Gotliic. In all this re- 
gion there are very few shops or stores of any kind. There are, however, sev- 
eral large apartment-hotels conducted on the French system of suites; among 
which are the Cluny, on Boylston Street ; the Huntington on Huntmgton Ave- 
nue, and the Oxford on the same avenue ; the Berkeley and the Kempton, ou 
Berkeley Street ; the Agassiz, on Commonwealth Avenue ; the Kensington, 
Boylston corner of Exeter Streets ; and the Tudor, Beacon Hill. 

Commonwealth Avenue is now finished for nearly a mile, leading in a straight 
line from the 
Public Gar- 
den to West 
Chester 
Park, from 
whence i t 
will ulti- 
mately b e 
prolonged to 
the intersec- 
tion of Bea- 
c o n Street 
and Brigh- 
ton A v e - 
nue, on the 
Brookline 
side, deflect- 
ing from a 
straight 
course at the 
line of the 
new Back- 
Bay Park. 

The ba- 
sin of the 
Charles Union Boat-Club. Charles R 




68 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

River, enclosed between Beacon and Charles Streets and the bridge to Cam- 
bridge, has long been a favorite course for boat-racing. Upon it are held 
the regattas arranged by the city for the entertainment of the people on the 
Fourth of July, and private regattas at other times. At the head of the course 
is situated thj Union Boat-Club House, an attractive structure, in the Swiss 
style of architecture, having a water-frontage of eighty-two feet and command- 
ing a fine view of the river. The gymnasium, club-committee, dressuig and 
bathing rooms, are especially adapted to comfort and convenience. The club 
was organized May 26, 1851, and, with perhaps one exception, is the oldest 
boating organization in the country. The present building was completed Jidy 
3, 1870. The Union introduced on the Charles the style of rowing without a 
coxswain, and in September, 1853, rowed a race at Hull, in which, for the first 
time in the United States, the boat was steered over the course by the bow oar. 
The club was also instrumental in getting up the first wherry race on the river, 
July 4, 1854, won by the then coxswain of the organization. In 1857, the Un- 
ions were at the height of theu" glory, and in June of that year won from the 
" Harvards " the celebrated Beacon cup, one of the most beautiful prizes ever 
offered in Massachusetts for such a race. Champion cups, colors, oars, and 
medals are among the trophies of the members, won principally previous to 
the Rebellion, to which date the supremacy of the Charles was held by the 
Union. 

In this neighborhood, on the corner of Mt. Vernon and Brimmer Streets, 
near the line between the old and new West End, is the church of the Parish 
of the Advent, Protestant Episcopal, of the High Church school, founded in 
1844. It is a picturesque building of brick and stone in the early English 
style. The architects wei-e Stui-gis and Brigham. It has been occupied by the 
parish since 1882. For eighteen years previous the parish occupied the church 
on Bowdoin Street, formerly known as the old Lyman Beecher meeting-house. 
This is now the Mission Church of the Society of St. John the Evangelist, the 
brotherhood of priests who purchased it from the Advent parisli after the bat- 
ter's removal to its new location. It is a free church having no endowments, 
all its expenses being met by the voluntary offerings of the people. It is 
under the direction of the Rev. A. C. A. Hall, the superior of the mission. Three 
services are held daily, and the clergy hear confessions. Of the Church of the 
Advent the Rev. C. C. (irafton is rector, and the Rev. Edward lienedict assist- 
ant. The exquisite nuisic is a feature of the services here. There is a finely 
trained boy choir. There are three services daily throughout the year. 

Two of the newer clubs, the Puritan and the Algonquin, are established in 
the West End, one in the old and the other in the new part. The club-house 
of the former is on Mt. Vernon Street, at the corner of Joy, and that of the 
latter at No. 104 Marlborough Street. The Algonquins propose to build a 
new club-house especially constructed for their use. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 69 




IV. THE CENTRAL DISTRICT. 

ilE come now to a district smaller than either of those that have been 
described, but much more compact in form, and more crowded with 
buihliugs, which are at the same time by far the largest, the most 
elegant, and the most costly that the city can boast. Although in the 
inmiediate vicinity of the wharves at the North End some branches of whole- 
sale trade still Hourish, and in the neighborhood of Faneuil Hall there are large 
establishments for the supply of household stores and furnishing goods of vari- 
ous descriptions, while there are very few districts in the city which have not 
retail supply stores of all kinds in their immediate neighborhood, in general, it 
may be said that the district bounded by State, Court, Tremont, Boylston and 
Essex Streets is the great business section of the city. State Street is the head- 
(juarters of bankers and brokers, — the money-centre of the city. Pearl Street 
was until 1872 the greatest boot and shoe market in the world, and a portion of 
the trade has returned to the neighborhood, though its centre is on Bedford 
Street. On Franklin, Chauncy, Summer, Devonshire and neighboring streets 
are the famous establishments that make Boston the leading market of the 
country for dry-goods. Boston also stands first among American cities in its 
receipts and sales of wool, and the dealers in this staple are clustex'ed within 
the district we have circumscribed. The wholesale merchants in iron, groceries, 
clothing, paper, in fancy goods and stationery, in books and pictures, in music 
and musical instruments, in jewelry, in tea, coffee, spices, tobacco, wines and 
liquors, — in fact, in all the articles that are necessities or luxuries of our mod- 
ern civilized life, — have still their places of busmess within it. The retail 
trade, too, is domiciled here, convenient of access to dwellers in the city and 
shoppers from the suburbs. The army of lawyers is within the district, or just 
upon its borders. Tlie great transportation and the various express companies 
have their offices here. The daily papers are also congregated within it, and 
nearly all the theatres. 

Much that is interesting in Boston's histoi'y has occurred in this part of the 
city, but very few of the buildings that are reminders of events long past re- 
main. Even Fort Hill, one of the historical three, has been wholly removed, and 
the broad plain where it once stood has been made available for building pur- 
poses. The earth thus removed was used in carrying forward two other great 
improvements, — the one to enlarge the facilities for rapid and economical 
transaction of business, the other to convert a low, swampy, and unhealthy 
neighborhood into a dry and well-drained district, — the grading of the mar- 
ginal Atlantic Avenue and the raising of the Suffolk Street district. 



70 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



IJSBI5 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



71 



The " great fire " of November 9th and 10th, 1872, occurred within this dis- 
trict. The accompanying sketch gives the most picturesque, while necessarily 
an inadecjuate idea of the scene of desolation that prevailed over sixty-five 
acres of territory when the fire had at last been conquered. The fire broke out 




The Spot wheie the Fire bei^an. 

at the corner of Summer and Kingston streets, and it did not cease to spread 
until it had burned twenty hours. It destroyed 77G buildings, of which 709 
were of brick or stone and 67 of wood. The valuation of these buildings for 
purposes of taxation was $ 13,591,300, the true value about $ 18,000,000. The 
value of personal property destroyed was about $ 60,000,000. Fourteen persons 
lost their lives in the fire, of whom seven were firemen. The sum of .$ 320,000 
was raised in Boston alone, no outside help being accepted, for the relief of dis- 
tress and poverty caused by the fire. 

The visible traces of this most disastrous fire are now completely effaced, 



72 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



and the buildings in this part of the city are as a whole incomparably more con- 
venient, commodious, beautiful, and artistic tlian those Avliich preceded them. 
Let any one, for proof of this, stand at the head of Franklin Street and com- 
pare its present appearance with the faithfid representation given here of its 
aspect before the fire. 




View of Franklin Street as it was before the Fire. 

Although this Central district is preemuiently the business section of the city, 
it contains several public and semi-public buildings which perhaps deserve the 
first attention. And the list should properly be lieaded by the magnificent City 
Hall, which is one of tlie most imposing specimens of architecture in the city. 
It was in 1830 that tlie city offices were removed from Faneud Hall to the Old 
State House, wliich had been remodelled for the purpose. But only a few 
years elapsed before it became necessary to remove thence. Successive city 
governments liaving refused to sanction the erection of a siutable City Hall, 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



73 



the Old Court House, wluch stood on «, part of the site of the present City 
Hall, was converted into a city buildmg in 1840, and all the offices of the city 
were removed 
thither. In 
1850 the ques- 
tion of making 
additions to the 
old City Hall 
or of erectuig 
a new one re- 
appeared in the 
city council, 
and after agi- 
tation of the 
subject from 
year to year 
the necessary 
orders for a 
new building 
were passed in 
1862. The sum 
originally 
asked for and 
appropriated 
was !? 160,000, 
but the build- 
ing actually 




City Hall. 



cost, before it was occupied, more than half a million dollars. The corner-stone 
was laid on the 22d of December, 1862, — the anniversary of the landing of the 
Pilgruns at Plymouth, and the building was completed and dedicated on the 
18th of September, 1865. The tablet in the wall back of the first landing- 
perpetuates in beautifully worked marble the statement that the dedication took 
place on the 17th of September, the two hundred and thirty-fifth anniversary 
of the settlement of Boston; but as that day fell that year on Sunday, the cere- 
mony actually took place on the following day. 

The style in which this building has been erected is the Italian Renaissance, 
with modifications and elaborations suggested by modern French architects. 
The material of the exterior is Concord granite. The Louvre dome, which is 
surmounted by an American eagle and a flagstaff, is occupied withm by some 
of the most important offices of the city. Here is the central point of the 
fire-alarni telegraphs. Most of the officers of the city have commodious 
and comfortable quarters within the buikling, but it is not large enough for 
all, and the pressing necessity for more room has been met by hiruig offices 
outside. 



74 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

In the lawn in front of the City Hall stand on one side the bronze statue of 
Benjamin Franklin, and on the other that of Josiah QuLncy. The Franklin 
statue was formally inaugurated, with much pomp and ceremony, on the 17th 
of September, 1856. It origuiated in the suggestion made by the Hon. Robert 
C. Winthrop, m an address before the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic As- 
sociation m 1852. A public subscription to the amount of nearly $20,000 fur- 
nished the means. The ai'tist was R. S. Greenough, who was born almost 
within sight of the State House, and all the work from beginning to end was 
done in the State. The statue is eight feet in height, and stands upon a ped- 
estal of verd antique marble, resting on a base of Qiiincy granite. In the die 
are four sunken panels, in wliich are placed bronze medallions, each represent- 
ing an important event in the life of the great Bostonian to whose memory the 
statue was raised. This is one of the best public statues in Boston. 

The statue of Josiah Quincy was unveiled in October, 1879. The sculptor was 
Thomas Ball, and the means for its erection were drawn from the trust-fund 
established in 1860 by Hon. Jonathan Phillips, who bequeathed to the city 
$20,000, " the income from which shall be amiually expended to adorn and em- 
bellish the streets and public places." From this fund the cost of the Win- 
throp and Adams monuments, elsewhere described, was also met. The figure 
is much above life size, and stands on a pedestal of Italian marble ; the height 
of the whole being eighteen and a half feet. The pedestal was also designed 
by Ball. The inscription is an epitome of biography, as follows : — 

JOSIAH QUINCY. 

1772-1864. 

MASSACHUSETTS SENATE, 1804. 

CONGRESS, 1805-181.3. 

JUDGE OF MUNICIPAL COURT, 1822. 

MAYOR OF BOSTON, 1823-1828. 

PRESIDENT OF HARVARD UNIVERSITY, 1829-1845. 

The County Court House is back of the City Hall, in Court Square, front- 
ing on Court Street. It was erected in 1833 and is a substantial but plain and 
gloomy-looking building, with a massive Doric portico on the front, supported 
by huge columns of fluted granite. For years there has been a movement for 
a new court house, the present being dingy and inconvenient, and located in a 
noisy neighborhood. At length, in 1885, among the several sites suggested for 
a new structure, that on the north side of Pemberton Square was selected, and 
practical work begun. The United States Courts, which are now established 
in the Post Office building, for many years occupied the building at the corner 
of Tremont Street and Temple Place. This was erected in 1830 by the Free- 
masons of Massachusetts as a Masonic temple, but was subsequently used as 
warerooms for Chickering's pianos, and finally purchased by the United States 
government, by whom it was transformed into the Court House. It was bought 
in 1885 by the Weld estate, and altered for business purposes, by raising the 
whole structure and adding two new stories below. The stone church next to 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



75 



it, St. Paul's Episcopal, was built in 1819-20, and consecrated the 30th of June 
the latter year. Its walls are of gray granite, the Ionic columns in front of 
Potomac sandstone laid in courses. The interior is finely finished. One of the 
finest of the 
newer busi- 
ness build- 
ings in the 
Central Dis- 
trict is that 
of the Massa- 
chusetts Hos- 
pital Life 
Insurance 
C o m p a n y, 
No. 50 State 
Street, of 
which we 
give a view. 

Another 
notable pub- 
lie building 
in this dis- 
trict is the 
United States 
Post- Office 
and S u b - 
Treasury. 
The land on 
which it 
stands cost 
$ 1,300,000 ; 
the half of 
the building 
first comple- 
ted, begun in 
1869, cost 

!$2,500,000, and the other half, finished in 1885, cost over $3,000,000. Its ar- 
chitecture is " Renaissance." The fronts on Post-Office Square and Devon- 
shire Street are over 200 feet long, and those on Water and Milk Streets 
nearly as long. The street story is 28 feet high, and its massive piers uphold 
the two floors above, over which rises an immense iron roof. Four broad and 
well-lighted corridors parallel with the adjacent streets run around the ground- 
floor, partly surrounding the great work-room of the office. The Sub-Treasury, 
in the second story, accessible from Milk Street or Water Street, is a splendid 
hall, 50 feet high, adorned with rich marbles and other costly trimmings. 




Massachusetts Hospital Life Insurance Building. 



76 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



To the east of the Post-Office is a broad, open place surrounded with fine 
buiklings, and called Post-Office Square. The facade on the side, which is tlie 

f 







The Post-Office. Post-Office Square Front. 

front of the buildino;, i.s adorned with several towers, on two of which stand 
sculptured groups, of heroic size, by Daniel C. P^-ench. Facing the building, 
the left-hand group represents Labor supporting the arts and domestic life ; 
Labor, a stalwart figure, with his right arm supported liy the horn of the anvil 
against wliieh lie is leaning. Under his right arm are tlie mother and cliild, and at 
his left a graceful woman supporting a vase on her knee, while at her feet lie 
sculptured masks and capitals. The gronp at the right represents the forces of 
steam and electricity subdned and controlled by Science. Tlie central figure is 
Science, with her foot resting on a closed volume, — her undiscovered secrets, — 
and supporting on her left arm a horseshoe magnet with a thunderbolt as an ar- 
mature. Crouching at her feet is a gigantic slave with riveted cap, and hands 
chained to a locomotive wheel, while about his feet are clouds of steam and 
fragments of machinery. At her right is disclosed the Spirit of electricity, from 
whom she is throwing back her drapery by which he has been veiled, and he 
stands (on a blazing thunderbolt) ready to dart forth to "put a girdle round 
the earth," whicli lies at his feet, as soon as he shall receive the message for 
which he is listening. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 77 

The exterior walls of the Post-Office are of Cape Ann granite, and their 
substantial character was demonstrated in the " great fire " of 1872. At that 
tinie only the first half of the building was built. The fire clearing away the 
buildings on the square beyond that part of the structure, the way was opened 
for a return to the original plan for the extension, which had been considerably 
modified on account of the high price demanded for the land and the difficulty 
of procuring the entire lot. Congress was asked to make an additional appro- 
priation for the purchase of the remainder of the square, and for the extension 
of the building over it. This was readily granted on condition that the streets 
surrounding the building should be so widened as to give additional pi'otection 
against fire and improve its architectural appearance. Strong opposition to 
the condition arose from owners of estates whose value, they contended, would 
be impaired by such street widening, and by other citizens who thought the city 
was too heavily burdened to undertake such a costly work ; but this was event- 
ually overcome, the necessary legislation obtained, and the appropriation se- 
eded. Then further difficulty was met when the owners were asked to set a 
price upon their land. The courts were appealed to, and even the government 
was appalled at the price awarded. Finally, however, by dint of skillful ne- 
gotiations, all obstacles were cleared away, the entire lot acquired, and the 
work upon the extension proceeded. This. was begun in the fall of 1875, and 
completed, as already stated, in 1885. 

The Boston Post-Office has been a migratory institution for a long time. 
During tlie siege of Boston it was removed to Cambridge, but was brought 
back again after the evacuation of the town by the British. In the one hundred 
years preceding its establishment in its own building it had been removed at 
least ten times. For the eleven years immediately preceding the fire it was in 
the Merchants' Exchange Building in State Street, that being its third occupa- 
tion of those quarters. After the fire it was temporarily in Faneuil ?Iall, and 
later in the Old South Church, from which it removed to the present biulding. 

The Custom-Ilonse stands on Broad Street corner of State. It was begun 
in 1837, two years after it had been authorized by Congress, and was ten years 
in building. It is in the form of a Greek cross, and the exterior is in the pure 
Doric style of architecture. The walls, columns, and even the entire roof, are 
of granite. The massive columns, which entirely sui'round the building, are 
thirty-two in number. Each of them is five feet two inches in diameter and 
thirty-two feet high, and weighs about forty-two tons. The building rests upon 
three thousand piles. It is supposed to be entirely fireproof. It cost upwards 
of a million dollars, including the site and the foundations. The interior was 
thoroughly renovated during the term of Collector Beard, who served from 
the spring of 1878 to May, 1882, when he was succeeded by Roland Worthing- 
ton, of "The Traveller." Leverett Saltonstall is the present collector, ap- 
pointed November, 1885. 

Beyond the Custom-IIouse, at the foot of State Street, is Long Wharf, which 
was built about the year 1710, and first bore tlie name of Boston Piei*. The 



78 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



Abbe Robin described it as " a superb wharf advancing nearly two thousand feet 

into the sea, wide 
enough along its 
whole length for 
stores and shops." 
It was lined with 
warehouses, and at 
the end was a bat- 
tery of heavy guns. 
In 1673 a long pier 
called the Barri- 
cado was built from 
the North Battery 
at Copp's Hill to 
the South Battery 
at Fort Hill, wifii 
several openings to 
admit vessels. This 
work enclosed the 
Town Cove, in 
which the shipping 
lay, and was de- 
signed to prevent 
an attack by the 

Dutch or the French. Having no commercial value, when the danger of inva- 
sion was over it was allowed to decay, and the site is now occupied by the broad 
Atlantic Avenue. 

Two of the oldest church-buildings in the city are left within the limits of 
the Central District, surrounded by business structures, only one of them oc- 
cupied as a house of worship. The Old South Society, whose new edifice is de- 
scribed elsewhere, was the third Congregational Society in Boston, and was or- 
ganized in 1669, in consequence of a curious theological quarrel in the First 
Church. The first Old South meeting-house, erected in 1669, on the corner of 
what are now Washington and Milk streets, stood for sixty years. It was of 
cedar, and had a steeple. It was taken down in 1729, when the present build- 
ing was erected on the same spot. This now historic meeting-house is perhaps 
the most noted church edifice in the United States. It is internally quamt and 
interesting, although the old pulpit and the high box-pews have been removed, 
and the double tier of picturesque galleries are partly overlaid with portraits 
and other antiques from the historic families of New England. But a tablet 
which stands above the entrance on the Washington Street side of the tower 
gives concisely the main facts. The Old South is frequently mentioned on the 
pages devoted to the history of Boston before and during the Revolution. When 
the meetings of citizens became too large to be accommodated in Faneuil Hall, 




Custom-House. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



79 



then much smaller than now, they adjourned to this church. Here Joseph 
Warren stood and delivered his fearless oration, on the anniversary of the 
massacre of March 5, 1770, in defiance of the threats of those in authority, and 
in the presence of a marshalled sol- 
diery. Here vi^ere held the series of 
meetings that culminated in the de- 
struction of the detested tea, on which 
the determined colonists would pay no 
tax. In 1775, the British soldiers oc- 
cupied this meeting-house as a riding- 
school, and place for cavalry drill. 
They established a grog-shop in the 
lower gallery, which they partially 
preserved for spectators of their sport. 
The rest of the galleries were torn 
down, and the whole interior was 
stripped of its woodwork. The floor 
they covered with about two feet of 
dirt. In 1782 the building was thor- 
oughly repaired and put in very much 
its late condition. The first Election 
sermon was delivered in the Old South 
Church in 1712, and the ancient cus- 
tom was observed up to the year 1872. 
In 1876 the Old South Society sold 

the church, to be torn down and re- Old South Churcn before the Fire. 

placed by commercial buildings. But certain Bostonians, loath to see such a 
sacrilege, bought the ancient edifice, and the land on which it stood, for about 
$430,000, a large portion of which has been raised and paid, by private efforts. 
The church is now a loan museum of curious liistorical relics. Revolution- 
ary weapons, flags, quaint old furniture, portraits of the New England fathers, 
and other interesting objects. It is open daily, and the entrance-fees go to- 
ward the preservation-fund. 

The Province House was on Washington Street near the Old South, nearly 
opposite tlie head of Milk Street, and had a handsome lawn in front, embel- 
lished with oak-trees. It was a dignified brick building three stories high, with 
a long flight of stone steps leading up to a portico, from which the viceroys 
used to address the people. The edifice was erected in 1679, and in 1715 was 
bouglit by the Province as a residence for its governors, being well fitted there- 
for by the size and splendor of its interior and the agreeableness of its sur- 
roundings. Here Shute, Burnet, Shirley, Pownall, Bernard, Gage, and Sir 
William Howe held their vice-regal courts. After the siege of Boston the 
building was occupied by State offices, and in 1811 it was given in endowment 
to the Massachusetts General Hospital, whose trustees leased the estate to 




80 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

David Greenough for ninety-nine years. The new lessee erected a block of 
stores in front, and the Province House idtiniately became a negro-niinstrel 
hall. In 1864 it was burned, and only the walls were left standing-, which are 
now covered with mastic, and serve as the exterior of a new structure. The 
old Province House was charmingly described by Hawthorne, in his " Twice- 
Told Tales." 

The land along Washington Street, between Milk Street and Spring Lane, 
belonged originally to John Winthrop, who built his hovise thereon, in order to 
be conveniently near the spring of clear water from which Spring Lane derives 
its name. In the winter of 1775 Winthrop's house was pulled down by the 
British troops, to be burnt at their camp-fires. Under its thatched roof the 
governor often entertained the envoys and chiefs of tlie adjacent Indian tribes, 
and conciliated them by diplomatic feasts. The remains of the Puritan saint 
are in the King's Chapel Cemetery ; his statue (by Greenough) is at Mount 
Auburn, a duplicate of which stands in ScoUay Square, Boston. His estate on 
Washington Street was bequeathed by Madam Norton to the Old South 
Church, which is the richest in the country, except Trinity Church in New 
York. His descendants are f:till living in honorable station. 

King's Chapel, standing at the corner of School and Tremont Streets, also 
has its history, hardly less interesting than that of the Old Soixth. It is, as 
is well known, the successor of the first Episcopalian church in Boston. There 
were a few of the early settlers in the town who belonged to the Church of Eng- 
land. In 1646 they asked for liberty to establish theii* form of worship here 
" tiU inconveniences herebj' be found prejudicial to the churches and Colony ; " 
but they were very decidedly rebuffed, and no more was heard of the matter 
for many years. The Church of England service was, however, introduced 
by the chaplain to the commissioners from Chai'les II., in 1665, and from that 
time there was little liindrance to its use. Nevertheless, it was not until twelve 
years after tliis that a church was actiially formed, and not until 1686 that steps 
were taken to erect a building to accommodate it. Governor Andros in that 
year greatly offended the consciences of the Old South people by determining 
to occupy the Old South for an Episcopal Church, and by compelling them to 
jdeld to him in this matter, though very much against their will. However, 
about that time, the church was built on a part of the lot where stands the 
present building. It is not possible to ascertain how the land was procured for 
the purpose ; and some have believed that Andros appropriated it in the exercise 
of the supreme power over the soil which he claimed by virtue of the delegated 
authority of the king. The new church was occupied in July, 1689. In 1710 
the building was enlarged, but by the middle of the centiu'y it had fallen to de- 
cay, and it was voted to rebuild witli stone. The present building was first 
used August 21, 1754. During the British occupation of the town it was left 
unharmed. Wliile the Old South Meeting-House was undergoing repairs of 
the injuries sustained in its occupation as a military riding-school, the society 
of King's Chapel gave to that society the free use of its church. When the 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 81 

Old South people returned to their own house, the proprietors of King's Chapel 
voted to return to their old form of worship, with extensive alterations in the 
liturgy, adapting the Church of England service to the Unitarian doctrine. 
And thus the first Episcopal Church became the fii-st Unitarian in Boston. 

Adjoining this ancient church is the first burial-ground established m Boston. 
It is not exactly known when it was fii-st devoted to the burial of the dead. 
There is some dispute over the question whether Mr. Isaac Jolmson, one of the 
most prominent of the colonists, and also one of the first to pass away, was or 
was not buried here. It is, however, certain that this was the only graveyard 
in Boston for the first thirty years after the settlement. The visitor to this 
yard will be apt to notice the very singular arrangement of gravestones along- 
side the paths. They were taken from their original positions years ago, by a 
city officer, who was certainly gifted with originality, and reset, without the 
slightest reference to their former uses or positions, as edgestones or fences to 
the paths. There are many very old gravestones in this yard. These, at least, 
date back to the year 1658. One of these stones has a history. At some time 
after the interment of the good deacon it commemorated, the stone was re- 
jnoved and lost ; but it was discovered in 1830 near thfe Old State House, sev- 
eral feet below the surface of State Street. It is of gi'een stone, and bears 
this inscription : — 

HERE : LYETH 

THE : BODY : OF : Mr 

WILLIAM : PADDY : AGED 

58 YEARS : DEPARTED 

THIS : LIFE : AUGUST : THE [28] 

1658. 

On the reverse is this singular stanza of poetry : — 

HEAR . SLEAPS . THAT 
BLESED . ONE . WHOES . LIEF 
GOD . HELP . VS . ALL . TO . LIVE 
THAT . SO . WHEN . TIEM . SHALL . BE 
THAT . WE . THIS . WOULD . MUST . LIUE 
WE . EVER . MAY . BE . HAPPY 
WITH . BLESSED . WILLIAM PADDY. 

A great many distinguished men of the early time were Duried in this en- 
closure, and several of the tombs and headstones still bear the ancient inscrip- 
tions. The tomb of the Winthrops contains the ashes of Governor Jolui Win- 
throp, and of his son and grandson, who were governors of Connecticut. All 
three, however, died in Boston, and were buried in the same tomb. Not far 
away is a horizontal tablet, from the inscription on which we learn that " here 
lyes intombed the bodyes " of four " famous reverend and learned pastors of 
the first church of Christ in Boston," namely, Jolm Cotton, John Davenport, 
John Oxenbridge, and Thomas Bridge. In this abode of the dead are also the 



82 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

graves and the remains of many of the most famous men of the early days 
of Boston, — the Sheaf es, the Brattles, and the Savages, among others. The 
next to the oldest stone remahiing in the yard is that of Mr. Jacob Sheafe, one 
of the richest merchants of his time, who died iu 1658. This burying-ground 
has not been used for interments for a very long time. It is occasionally opened 
to visitors. 

In the granite building on Tremont Street beyond King's Chapel, and adjoin- 
ing the old burial-ground, is the Massachusetts Historical Society. It has a li- 
brary of 27,000 volumes, 60,000 pamphlets, and many rare manuscripts. Many 
ancient portraits adorn the walls, while relics of Washington and the Puritan 
governors and of King Philip, the chair of Governor Winslow, and the swords of 
Governor Carver, and Church the Indian-fighter, are carefully preserved here. 
The most interestmg of the portraits are those of Increase Mather and Sebas- 
tian Cabot. Among the manuscripts are voluminous writings of Governor 
Winthrop, Governor Hutchinson (eleven volumes), the historian Hubbard, 
Governor Jonathan Trumbull of Connecticut, the Rev. Dr. Jeremy Belknap, 
and other New England worthies, and the manuscript of Washington's address 
to the officers of the American army. Another rare curiosity is a copy of the 
Indian Bible, which was translated by the Apostle Eliot, and caimot now be 
read by any person living. The innermost room is occupied by the Dowse 
Library, a bequest of nearly 5,000 richly bound books, precious by reason of 
their rarity and antiquity. The society is the oldest of its kind in America, 
and includes among its membership many of the most honored names of New 
England. This building is open daily. 

In the rear of the Historical Building and King's Chapel was the ancient 
Latin School, from which School Street derived its name. It was founded in 
1634, and among its students were Franklin, Hancock, Sam Adams, Cotton 
Mather, Robert Treat Paine, and Sir William Pepperell. About the year 1750 
the school was removed to the present site of the Parker House, and here Har- 
rison Gray Otis, Robert C. Wmthrop, Horatio Greenough, Charles Sumner, 
and others who became renowned, conned their lessons tlirough the long days 
of their youth. A little farther east, near the site of the City Hall, was the 
house of Isaac Johnson, one of the first settlers of Boston; and James Otis, the 
Revolutionary orator, lived close by. Farther down School Street was the an- 
cient church of the French Huguenots, built in 1704, and presented Avith a 
Bible by Queen Anne, and Avith a con^munion-service by Mr. Faneuil; and on 
the north corner of School and Wasliington Street, is one of the oldest build- 
ings now standing in the city. This is the " Old Corner Book Store." It was 
built in 1712 by Thomas Crease. It was at first an apothecary store on the 
ground floor kept by the owner, and dwelling above. Several shopkeepers suc- 
ceeded him in following years. In 1828 Carter and Hendee occupied it for a 
bookstore, and to that use it has since been devoted. In 1832 Allen & Ticknor, 
the lineal ancestors of the present firm of Houghton, Mifflin & Co., took the 
stand and this house held it under the successive managements of William D. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



83 



Ticknor, Ticknor, Reed, & 
occupied by Cup- 
pies, Upham & Co., 
successors iu 1883 
of A. Williams & 
Co. The Old Cor- 
ner Store stands in 
very nearly its orig- 
inal form, and is 
one of the best and 
most substantial 
examples of a style 
of architecture that 
lias gone wholly out 
of vogue. 

The Parker 
House, on School 
Street, near the 
corner of Tremont, 
was the first hotel 
established in the 
city on the European plan. 



Field, and Ticknor & Fields, until 1865. It is now 




The Pai 
pleasure, and is a universal 



Old Corner Bookstore 

and has for years been one of the most prominent 

of the many leading 
hotels of Boston. 
The late propri- 
etor of the Parker 
House, Mr. Harvey 
1). Parker, began m 
a small way in an- 
other building, and 
gained a reputation 
for pi'oviding the 
liest that the market 
afforded, wliich the 
present Parker's has 
never suffered itself 
to lose. The house 
is elegant externally, 
and sumptuotisly 
furnished within. It 
is patronized very 
extensively by per- 
sons travelling "for 
Its pros- 




ker House. 

favorite with visitors as well as citizens. 



84 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

perity has been so great that the proprietors several years ago were obliged to 
make an addition of two stories to their original building, and to purchase an 
estate on the corner of Treniont Street. This newer portion consists of a six- 
story marble building of fine architectural appearance. Parker's has large pub- 
lic dining-rooms, a cafe, and several attractive private dining-rooms. Beck- 
man and Punchard are the present proprietors. 

Young's Hotel is a short distance from Parker's, fronting on a court in the 
rear of the Rogers Building, which stands on Washington Street opposite the 
head of State. The hotel extends to Court Square and Court Street. The 
portion occupying the corner of Court Square and Court Street was built in 
1881-82. It is seven stories high, and is constructed of light sandstone, highly 
ornamented. In the addition is the ladies' restaurant, the entrance to which is 
through a noble vestibule on the Court Street side. This dining-room is a 
hundred feet long and thirty-one feet wide. It is elaborately and richly deco- 
rated, and sumptuously furnished. At the end is a high, ornamented mantel 
and open fire-place built up of the Chelsea tile. There are other large dining- 
rooms and a cafe for gentlemen, the main dining-room being in the older por- 
tion of the house, and itself finely decorated, though not so lavishly as the ladies' 
dining-room. Young's is now one of the largest of the hotels in the city. Like 
Parker's it is conducted on the European plan. The present proprietor is 
Joseph Reed Wliipple, formerly of the Parker House. It was established by 
Mr. George Young, long a popular landlord, in 1845, and succeeded '* Taft's 
Coffee House." 

The building adjoining the new portion of Young's Hotel, on Court Street, 
is the Sears Building. This occupies the corner of Court and Washington 
Streets, fronting on the latter, directly opposite the Old State House. It is 
one of the finest, as it was also for its size one of the costliest in the city. It 
has a front of fifty -five feet on Washington Street, and of one hundred and forty- 
nine feet on Court Street. It is built in the Italian-Gothic style of architecture 
and the external walls are constructed of gray and wliite marble. It is occu- 
pied by banks, insurance companies, a score or more of railroad companies, 
engineers, treasurers of companies, etc. This elegant structure is one of many 
belonging to the Sears estate. It was built in 1868-69 and cost about three 
quarters of a million dollars. 

On Tremont Street, next the Historical Society's building, and near the 
head of the street, is the Boston Museum, by far the oldest of the places of 
amusement in Boston. In 1841, Mr. Moses Kimball organized and opened the 
" Boston Museum and Gallery of Fine Arts," at the corner of Tremont and 
Biomfield Streets. In connection with the museum was a fine music-hall, 
where the drama very soon found a home. The present building was erected by 
Mr. Kimball in 1846, and the first entertainment was given in it on the 2d of No- 
vember in that year. The museum proper was for many years large and inter- 
esting, and occupied numerous alcoves in the large hall on Tremont Street, and 
several capacious galleries. Now, however, the museum is of little importance, 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



85 



and the theatre is the main attraction. This has been several times entirely 
reconstructed, and 
is at present one 
of the handsom- 
est, most com- 
plete, and bright- 
est playhouses in 
the city. It is fine- 
ly decorated and 
upholstered ; and 
much care is giv- 
en to the ventila- 
tion. An excel- 
lent stock c o m- 
pany presents the 
best of dramatic 
novelties, making 
the Museum a fiist 
class comedy the- 
atre ; and the 
" star " and " com- 
bination " systems 
are occasionally 

used. The Muse- Boston Museum 

um is a great favorite with all classes of patrons of the drama. It has been under 
the management of Mr. R. M. Field since 1863; and the veteran comedian Mr. 
William Warren, was a member of its company, with the single exception of 
one year, from 1847, until his retirement at the close of the winter season of 
1882-3. 

On the corner of Tremont and Court Streets, where a fine brown stone struc- 
ture called the Hemmenwaj^ Building now stands (see cut on page 87), until 
1883 stood an old building which was conspicuous among its neighbors as the 
house in which General Washington stayed during his visit to Boston in 1789, 
when Hancock turned him the cold shoulder. On Tremont Row, in this vicin- 
ity, was the court-quarter of old Boston, where stood the houses of Governor 
Endicott, Sir Harry Vane, and Richard Bellingham, and the eminent divines 
Cotton, Oxenbridge, and Davenport. 

On Tremont Street just beyond School Street, south, and opposite the Tre- 
mont House, — which has been described in the previous chapter, — is Tremont 
Temple. It occupies the site of the old Tremont Theatre, and is one of the 
best known halls in the city for public assemblies of all kinds. The present is 
the third building on this site known as Tremont Temple. The first was the 
Tremont Theatre remodelled, in 1843, for the establishment of a popular Bap- 
tist Church. This building was destroyed by fire in March, 1852. Tlie next 




86 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



year a new building was completed wliicli in turn was burned in August, 1879. 
The present building was completed in October, 1880. It was in the haU of the 
second building that Mr. Charles Dickens gave his readings in Boston on liis 
last visit to America, and it was selected on account of its great capacity and 
admirable acoustic properties. The present audience-room is one hundred and 
twenty-two feet long, seventy-two feet wide, and sixty-six feet high, witli deep, 
encii'clijig galleries. It can seat comfortably 2,600 persons. It is provided with 
a fine Hook and Hastings organ. Beneath the large hall is a smaller one, 
known as the Meionaon, Avith an entrance through a long passage-way from 
Tremont Street. The Temple is occupied on Sundays by tlie Tremont Temple 
Baptist Church, wliich was established in 1839, and for which the hall was origi- 
nally coustructed. Several Baptist missionary and publication societies also 
have their headquarters in the building. The great hall has been celebrated, 
of late years, as the place where the Rev. Joseph Cook has discussed theological 
and secular questions in the " Monday Lecture " before large audiences. 

A fine piece of architecture is the Horticultural Hall on Tremont Street, 
between Bromfield Street and Montgomery Place. It was erected by the Mas- 
sachusetts Horticultural Society, and is one of the most perfectly classical 

^ ^ buildings in the 

city. It is built 
of white gran- 
it e, beaut i- 
fully dressed, 
and the exte- 
rior is massive 
and elegant in 
proportion. 
The front is 
surmounted by 
a granite statue 
of Ceres ; and 
on the north 
and south but- 
tresses of the 
second stories 
are ideal stat- 
ues in granite 
of Flora and 
Pomona by 
Martin Mil- 
more. The 

lower floor of the building is occupied for business purposes, and above are two 
halls, not very large, yet adapted not only to their origmal purpose, for the 
meetings and exliibitions of the society, but for parlor concerts, lectures, social 
gatherings, and fairs. 




and Studio Building 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



87 



The Studio Building, showu in the accompanying illustration, stands on the 
opposite corner of Bromfield Street. This building was at one time a head- 
quarters of the artists of Boston, but now many of them are located elsewhere. 
Besides the devotees of art, there are many private teachers of music and the 
languages in the Studio Building, and a few of the rooms are occupied as bach- 
elors' apartments. 

Standmg on Tremont Street, at the head of Hamilton Place, and looking 
down the place, one may see the side entrance to a plam and lofty brick budd- 
mg without ornament or architectural pretensions of any sort. This buildmg is 
the Boston Music Hall, one of the noblest public halls in the world. It was 
built by private enterprise, and first opened to the public in 1852. The acous- 
tic properties of the hall are perfect. As Dr. Holmes has said, it is " a kind of 
passive musical instrument, or at least a sounding-board constructed on theoreti- 
cal principles." 
The hall is 130 
feet in length, 
78 in breadth, 
and 65 in 
height. T h e 
height is half 
of the length; 
the breadth is 
six tenths of 
the length, the 
unit being thir- 
teen feet. The 
fine statue of 
Apollo, the ad- 
mirable casts 
presented by 
Miss Charlotte 
Cushman and 
placed in the 
walls, and, 
above all, the 
m a g n i fi c e n t 
statue of Bee- 
t h o V e n , by 
Crawford, that 
stands on 
the platform, 
deserve the at- 
tention of 
every visitor 




Hemmenway Burlding 



rt Streets 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



to the hall. For more than thirty years the most of the concerts of high 
character have been given here : the grand oratorio performances of the 
Handel and Haydn Society, the oldest musical organization in the United 
States, and the leading choral society in the country ; the Symphony Concerts 
of the Harvard Musical Association ; the deservedly popular concerts of the 
Boston Symphony Orcliestra, established in 1881 througli the liberality of 
Henry L. Higginson, which furnishes twice each week during the winter sea- 
sou the choicest music at a low price ; the occasional concerts of the Apollo, 
Boylston, Cecilia, and other singing clubs ; and those of individual artists, 
who, from Ole Bull and Parepa to Josefty, have been heard within these walls. 
The great organ, long one of the attractions of the hall, was removed in 1884. 
Beneath the Music Hall is a small hall known as Bumstead Hall, the entrance 
to which is from the main entrance to the building from Winter Street. This 
IS used piinci]>Tlh ioi itht umK 

Not far from 
the Music Hall, 
o n Washington 
Street between 
AVest and Boyls- 
ton Streets is what 
might quite prop- 
erly be called the 
" theatre quar- 
ter" of the city. 
Here, on the west 
side of the street, 
are the Boston, 
Bijou, and Park 
theatres, and on 
the east side the 
Globe theatre \. 
while just beyond 
lU)ylston Street is 
the World's Mu- 
seum, Menage- 
rie, and Aqua- 
rium. 

The Boston 

The Boston Theatre. Theatre is the 

largest regular place of amusement in New England, and is in many respects 
one of the finest. It was built by a corporation composed of leading citizens 
in 1854, and was opened on the 11th of September of that year, under the man- 
agement of Mr. Thomas Barry. There is a stock company connected with this. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 89 

theatre, but there are frequent " star " performances during the season, and 
this is the house usually engaged for the representation of Italian, German, 
French, and English Opera. Most of the great American actors, and many dis- 
tinguished foreign actors and actresses, have appeared upon this stage. Jeffer- 
son and Owens, Booth and Forrest, Fechter and Sothern, McCullough, Ristori, 
Salvini, Jauauschek, Irving, Elleu Terry, and a host of others whose names are 
famous in the annals of the stage, have here delighted the Boston public ; while 
of opera-singers may be mentioned Nilsson, Lucca, Parepa Rosa, Kellogg, 
Phillipps, Patti, Gerster, and Ilauck. Here, too, the gorgeous spectacular plays 
that have their seasons of prosperity have been presented in very complete 
form ; the greatest and most successful fairs ever held in Boston for charitable 
objects have been given here ; and the vast auditorium was the scene of the 
balls given in honor of the Prince of Wales and the Grand Duke Alexis. 

The Bijou, one of the newest of the city theatres, is just beyond the Boston. 
It occupies the site of the Gaiety Theatre, which flourished for several years, 
and which was constructed from a somewhat famous hall long known as the 
Melodeon. The Bijou is a dainty theatre, highly ornamented, and richly dec- 
orated. The prevailing shade of the interior decorations is a coppery hue, 
which lights up luilliantly. The house is so arranged that every seat com- 
mands a good view of the stage. There is but one spacious balcony, and two 
private boxes, which are removed entirely from the stage. The proscenium 
arch is of the horse-shoe form, and the arrangements of the stage are modern 
in all respects. The entrance to the auditorium is between heavy damask cur- 
tains in place of doors. The main entrances from the street are by long flights 
of stairs, and to the right of the landing is an artistically furnished apartment. 
The house was first opened on the evening of December 11, 1882, with a per- 
formance of Gilbert and Svdlivan's " lolanthe," which enjoyed a long run dur- 
ing the lirst season. 

In this " theatre quarter," just beyond the Bijou, the Adams House looms 
up majestically. Its finely finished marble front terminates in three pyramid 
towers, and it rises seven stories. It is one of the largest and best hotels in 
the city, famous especially for the excellence of its cuisine. It is conducted on 
the European plan. George G. Hall is proprietor. On its site long stood the 
Lamb tavern built in 1745. 

The Park is a small theatre, well arranged, and inviting in appearance. It 
was constructed from Beethoven Hall, and was first opened to the public on the 
evening of April 14, 1879. The dimensions of the auditorium are : sixty-three 
feet from the stage to the doors, sixty feet wide, and fifty feet high. The floor 
is divided into orchestra stalls and parquet, and orchestra circle ; the first two 
rows of the first balcony are called the balcony, and the seats behind them the 
dress-circle ; and the second balcony is the family circle and gallery. The 
house seats about 1,180, and it is so admirably arranged that all the seats com- 
mand a good view of the stage. On either side of the stage are private boxes, 
attractively upholstered and provided with most comfortable chairs. The main 



90 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



entrance to the theatre is tlirough a broad and handsome vestibule, and there 
are ample exits, so that the house can be quickly emptied of a crowded audi- 
ence. The Park has no stock company, but its entertainments are furnished by 
"stars," and leading Xew York dramatic companies. Henry E. Abbey and 
John B. Schoeffel are the managers. 

The Globe Theatre is one of the most attractive of the play-houses of the 
city. The original theatre on tliis site was built in 1867 for Mr. John H. Sel- 
wyn, by Messrs. Arthur Cheney and Dexter H. FoUett, and was at hi-st known 
as Selwyn's Theatre. Colonel FoUett subsequently disposed of his interest to 
Ml". Cheney. After two delightful seasons of comedy under Mr. Selwyn's man- 
agement, Mr. Charles Fechter became manager, and was in turn succeeded 

by Mr. W. R. Floyd. On Mr. Selwyn's 
retirement the name of the theatre was 
changed to the Globe. In May, 1873, on 
the morning of Decoration Day, the thea- 
tre was destroyed in the extensive fii-e on 
Washington Street. For a year after the 
site remained unoccupied, but in 1874 Mr. 
Cheney, with the cooperation of one hun- 
dred and fifty gentlemen, who paid $^1,000 
each for the right to one seat each during 
the eighteen years' lease, rebuilt it in an 
enlarged form, and it was duly opened on 
the 3d December of that year. Mr. Che- 
ney died in 1878, and for a brief season 
the theatre was conducted by Mr. John 
Stetson, who had, for a short time preced- 
ing Mr. Cheney's death, conducted it in 
conjunction with the latter. Then the 
house was closed for a season, and subse- 
quently, in October, 1880, Mr. Stetson ob- 
tained a le.ise for ten years. Thereupon 
he freshened the theatre and added sev- 
eral improvements. The auditorium is 
sixty feet high, and of the usual horse- 
shoe form. It has, besides the parquet, 
two galleries and an intermediate row of 
The Globe Theatre. mezzanine chairs. The stage is probably 

tlie most perfect one in the country, being furnished with all approved appli- 
ances for the perfect setting of scenery. A departure, and it is believed the 
first, has been made from the otherwise universal practice of constructing 
stage floors, this being entirely level. Tlie painted drop-curtain is admired 
by many, as well as the rich decoration and tasteful use of colors on the 
walls and ceiling, and the elegant drapery of the boxes. Beside the main en- 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



91 



trance on Washington Street, there is a handsome one from Essex Street, which 
runs to the eastward from the former thorouglifare. On Essex street, years 
dgo, Gilbert Stuart lived and painted. In later years Wendell Phillips lived 
here, near the corner of Chaiincy, and only removed in 1882, when his house 
was taken down to make way for the extension of Harrison Avenue. His home 
until his death in 1884 was in Common Street, near by. 

On Washington, corner of Boylston Street, is the Boylston Market, a plain, 
old-fashioned structure. This was built in 1809, and at that time its site was 
on the outer margin of the town. It was designed by Bulfinch, dedicated with 
a speech from John Quincy Adams, and presented with a clock by Boylston. 
The Handel and Haydn Society occupied the hall aljove the market in 1816, 
and afterwards the hall was occasionally used as a theatre, as Murdoch's school 
of elocution, and as a church. It now contains an armory. The street floor is 
still a market-house. The building opposite Boylston Market, near the corner 
of Essex Street, bears a brownstone bas-relief commemorating the famous elm 
which once stood on that site, of which Lafayette said : " The world should 
never forget the spot where once stood Liberty Tree," Here the Sons of 
Liberty used to assemble, before the Revolution, to organize resistance to 
British oppression. 

On Boylston Street, midway between Washington and Tremont Streets, is 
the building of the Boston Young Men's Chris- 
tian Union. This organization was instituted 
in 1851 and incorporated in 1852. Its building- 
is a handsome structure with its clock-tower 
above the Gothic front of Ohio sandstone. 
The building contains parlors, reception-roonis, 
class and reading-rooms, apartments for games, 
for correspondence, and President and Direct- 
ors' room, besides a gymnasium and a public 
hall. There is also a library of 7,000 vol- 
umes ; and the collection of curiosities includes, 
among many other things, 475 birds whose 
habitat is in Massaclmsetts. The Union Hall 
seats 520 persons, and has a stage and side- 
rooms suitable for theatricals, for which it 
is often hired. Norcross Hall (which also 
may be hired) seats 275 persons. During the 
spring and summer months of 1883 the build- 
ing was considerably enlarged by the addition 
of a wing, so that the ground area now occu- 
pied is 11,000 square feet. By this addition 
the library and reading-room are considerably Young Men's Christian Union. 

enlarged, the latter becoming the largest reading-room in the city. The area 
of the gymnasium is also enlarged. Many new appliances have, moreover 




92 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



been added to the latter, and it is now one of the finest and best equipped 
in the city. The benevolent work of the Union includes an employment-bureau, 
a boarding-house committee ; committees for receptions, Christmas and New 
Year's festivals to needy and worthy eliildren, Thanksgiving dmners for mem- 
bers unable to be with kindred, clothing for poor children, " the country week " 
(vacations in the country for poor eliildren), and rides for invalids ; and a 
committee on churches (of all denominations). There are also ladies' com- 
mittees associated in these and other charitable and kindly labors. Lectures, 
readings, dramatical and musical entertainments, and practical talks on matters 
of science, art, history, literature, and political economy are given during the 
winter season. Classes are held in a great variety of branches, and also 
social meetings and suburban excursions for information and pleasure. The 
Union is free from debt. 

The Hotel Boylston, on the corner of Boylston and Tremont Streets, is one 

ss=}-5=, ^a -: ^ _s._ ..- gj^ ^_ of the most ele- 

^ gant of the class 

of dwelUng-houses 
in the city, upon 
the "French flat" 
system, and one of 
the oldest. It is 
the property o f 
the Hon. Charles 
Francis Adam s. 
Its architecture is 
[(leasing and taste- 
ful, and its loca- 
tion gives it a 
great advantage 
over some other 
fine buildings that 
Hotel Boylston. must be viewcd 

from the opposite side of a narrow street. There is a public restaurant con- 
nected with the house, the entrance to which is from Tremont Street. 

The Masonic Temple stands on the opposite corner of Tremont and Boylston 
Streets. The headquarters of the order for many years was the building on the 
corner of Tremont Street and Temple Place, remodelled for business purposes 
in 1885. Subsequently the several organizations, or a large number of them, 
were gathered in the building adjoining the Winthrop House, at the corner of 
Tremont and Boylston Streets. Both the hotel and the halls were destroyed by 
fire on the night of April 7, 1864. It was then determined to build a temple 
worthy of the order on the same site. The corner-stone was laid with imposing 
ceremonies on the 14th of October of the same year, and the temple was dedi- 
cated on the Freemasons' anniversary, St. John's Day, June 24, 1867. On the 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



93 



latter occasion President Johnson was present, having accepted an invitation 

to participate in the ceremonies, 

which drew togethei- delegations 

of brethren of the order from 

all parts of Massachusetts and 

New England. The building is 

of fine granite. It has a fron<- 

of eighty-live feet on Tremont 

Street, and its height is ninetv 

feet, though one of the octa 

gonal towers rises to the height 

of one hundred and twenty-one 

fcQt. It has seven stories abo\ e 

the basement, of which on^y the 

street and basement floors are 

occupied for other than masonic 

purposes. There are three largt 

halls for meetings, on the sec 

ond, fourth, and sixth floors, fin 

ished respectively in the Coi 

intliian, Egyptain, and Gothi 

styles. On the intermediatt 

floors are ante-rooms, small 

halls, and offices ; while in the 

seventh story are three large banqueting-halls. 

On Tremont Street, between Boylston and West, is a marble structure of 
architectural beauty, which has added not a little to the attractiveness of Tre- 
mont Street. It is occupied by the Mason & Hamlin Organ and Piano Com- 
pany for their warerooms. In tliis building is the Boston Conservatoi-y of 
Music, an admirable institution, directed by Julius I^ichberg, one of the fore- 
most of Boston musicians. In the building adjoining is the Chickering Hall, in 
which some of the finest chamber concerts are given during the musical season. 

The retail trade of the Central District is chiefly transacted in that section 
bounded on the east by Washington Street, the greater part of the territory 
between Washington Street and the wharves being given up to wholesale busi- 
ness. The ladies' quarter has its centre in the neighborhood of Washington and 
Winter Streets. On any pleasant day the sidewalks and stores in the imme- 
diate vicinity of that corner are crowded with ladies engaged in the delightful 
occupation of " shopping," and the streets are lined with their carriages. 

On the east side of Washington Street, occupying the spacious lot between 
Central Court and Avon Street, is the building occupied by Jordan, Marsh, & 
Co., as a retail dry-goods store. It has a fine front of dark freestone, five 
stories high. At first the building covered only a portion of the lot, and the 
firm occupied the street floor and basement, the second floor being used as a 




Masonic Temple. 



94 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



warerooiiis by Cliickering- & Sons, with a beautiful hall at the rear known as 
Chiekeriiig's Hall, while the upper floors were arranged into suites of lodging- 
rooms mostly occupied by artists and other professional people. In course of 
time the business of tlie firm spread over the entire building, and large addi- 
tions to the structure, extending it to Avon and Summer Streets, were made. 
The several floors are reached by elegant passenger elevators, and there are an 
abundance of conveniences for shoppers. 

The dry-goods store of R. H. White & Co. is nearly opposite the Boston 
Tlieatre, and one of the chief ornaments of Washington Street, with its palatial 
front and the skillfully arranged displays in the windows. This establishment 
is perhaps the largest in New England. It now occupies the entire building 
extending through to the Harrison Avenue extension; and upon the corner of 
Bedford Street and Harrison Avenue is a fine new entrance of impressive ap- 
pearance. The first and second stories of the great building are given to retail 
trade; the tliird is reserved for the wholesale trade; and on the fourth hundreds 
of women are engaged in making ladies' garments. The structure occupied by 
this firm is a fine specimen of the commercial architecture of Boston. Their 
richly furnished reception room is well worth visiting. 

Another great dry-goods es- 
tablishment in this vicinity is 
that of C. F. Hovey & Co., oc- 
cupying a large and massive 
granite building on Summer 
Street. There are several oth- 
er great structures devoted to 
this business in Winter Street. 
One of the handsomest com- 
mercial buildings in the city 
is on the west side of Washing- 
ton Street, near Winter Street, 
— a lofty edifice of light-col- 
ored stone, rich in fine carv- 
ings. 

On Washington Street, east 
side, north of Summer Street, is 
the marble structure occupied 
byMacullar, Parker & Co., for 
their great wholesale and retail 
clothing manufactory and sales- 
room. Its fine front is very 
striking, and its internal ar- 
rangements are as perfect as its 
architecture. It is one of the 
largest buildings in the country 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



95 



wholly devoted to the business of clothing manufacture. It fronts forty-six 
feet on Washington Street, and extends back to Hawley Street two hundred 
and twenty-five feet. This building is nearly an exact copy of that on the same 
spot which was destroyed in the great fire. 

Boston owes to the fire of 1872 a group of buildings which are among the 
most stately and 
costly of any in 
the city. These 
have been erected 
by life insurance 
companies for the 
most part in the 
immediate neigh- 
borhood of the 
new Post-Office. 
The magnificent 
marble building 
of the Mutual 
Life Insurance 
Company of 
Xew York is one 
of the most beau- 
tiful as well as 
one of the most 
expensive of 
them. It fronts 
sixty-one feet on 
Milk and one him- 
dred and twenty- 
seven feet on 
Pearl Street, and 
is constructed of 
fine white marbL 
from the Tucka- 
hoe quarry. It is 
intended to b ( 
file - proof, t h i 
wmdow-sashes oi 
iron being set in 
marble frames, 
while all the floors 
are constructed 

whollv of incom- Building of the Mutual Lite Insuiance Con-.par.y of New York. 

bustible material. The architecture of the exterior is the modern French de- 




96 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



tail, adorned with elaborate carvings, and crowned by a lofty Mansard roof. 
The chief feature is a beautiful marble tower, rising from the centre of the 
main front to a height of 130 feet, and terminating in a gracefvd spire. On 
the upper part of the tower is a large clock ; and an alarm-bell hangs inside. 
Near the top of the spire is an observatory, surromided by a brass railing. 
The handsome new building of the New England Mutual Life Insurance 

Company 
stands on the 
corner of 
Milk and 
Congress 
streets, with 
V, frontage of 
fifty feet on 
the former 
and one huu- 
d r e d and 
eighty - one 
feet on the 
latter street, 
and is one of 
the chief 
(irnaments of 
Post - Office 
Square. It is 
built of white 
Con cor d 
granite, e x - 
cept the base- 
ment, which 
is of Quincy 
granite, i n 
the Renais- 
sance style of 
architecture. 
The buildino- 




Building of the New England Mutual Life Insurance Company. 



is admirably constl'ueted. A fine marble staircase runs from the first to the 
sixth story. The building is furnished with numerous vaults and safes, the 
basement alone having no less than ten safes for the accommodation of the Bos- 
ton Safe Deposit Company. The New England Mutual Life occupies the sec- 
ond story of its building. 

The Cathedral Building is a handsome ii"on structure on Winthrop Square, 
occupying the site of the ancient Cathedral of the Holy Cross, the scene of 
the labors of Bishop Cheverus, who was afterwards Cardinal-Archbishop of 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



97 




The Cathedral Building. 

Bordeaux. It was a part of the estate of the late Isaac Rich, and its rev- 
enues formed a portion of the endowment of Boston University, until it passed 
to the University to wliich it now belongs. 

At the south end of Winthrop Square is the Beebe-Weld Building, a large 
and imposing granite structure. 

The Equitable Building is a lofty and massive structure on Devonshire, cor- 
ner of Milk streets, opposite the Milk Street end of the Post-Office, and as 
near as possible to the centre of commercial Boston. It is owned by the Equit- 
able Life Assurance Society, and was built in 1873, at a cost of .fSl, 100,000. 
The walls are of Quincy and Hallowell granite, with ponderous brick back- 
ing, the floors being of impervious artificial stone on brick arches, the partitions 
of brick and the roof of iron and slate. There are nine stories above the base- 
ment, which are reached by three elevators and broad stairways of marble. 
The basements are occupied by the massive fire and burglar-proof safe deposit 
vaults of the Security Safe Deposit Co. Above these are banks, railroad and 
mining corporations, and other offices, occupying the various stories, which 
are divided by heavy fire-proof partitions, with artificial stone floors laid on 
7 



98 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



iron ffiiders and arches. 



The roof, easily reached by elevator, commands a 

fine view of the 
city and harbor. It 
was formerly occti- 
pied by the United 
States Signal Ser- 
vice, with its wind- 
vane, anemometer, 
and other scientific 
appliances, which 
now occupies the 
roof of the Post- 
Offiee opposite. 
The officers of this 
department are 
continnally making 
observations hence. 
The cautionary sig- 
nals to the vessels 
about to sail are 
displayed here, and 
warn of approach- 
i n g storms. At 
another point o n 
the roof is the great 
time-ball, which 
falls daily at pre- 
cisely noon, being 
connected by tele- 
graph with the Ob- 
servatory of Har- 
vard Uuiversitv. 




Equitable Building. 



The site of Franklin Street was a miry swamp, and was di-ained a hundred 
years ago by Joseph Barrell, a wealthy trader on the northwest coast of 
America. The reclaimed site of Franklin Street became ^Mr. Barrell's garden 
and fish-pond, his mansion being on Summer Street. In 1793 Bulfinch and 
Scollay built here the first block of buildings in Boston, a line of sixteen 
dwellings, called the Tontine Crescent, in front of which was a grass-plot three 
liundred feet long, containing a monumental urn to the memory of Benjamin 
Franklin. Ten years later the Cathedral was erected, farther down the street, 
and was a great structure in Ionic ai'chitecture, designed by Bulfinch. In 
1860 the Cathedral had become insecure, and the gromid on which it stood 
was sold for enous^h to aid greatlv in the construction of the enormous and 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



99 



costly Cathedral at tlie South End. The old Cathedral fronted on Devon- 
shire Street, which was then known as Pudding Lane, a narrow and winding 
alley running hy the old Boston Theatre. Several of the ancient churches 
were also in this vicinity, and among them was the Federal Street Church, 
which rose in 1744, near the corner of Federal and Franklin streets, and was 
conducted by Belknap, Channing, and Gannett. At the corner of Federal and 
Milk streets once stood the stately house from wliicli Governor Shirley was 
bui'ied, in 1771, and which was afterwards the home of the able and witty 
Robert Treat Paine, father and son. 

One of the most extensive business blocks in the burned-over district is that 
erected by the late 
Gardner Brewer, 
Esq., on Devon- 
shire , Franklin, 
and Federal 
streets. It is of 
Nova Scotia free- 
stone, and is in 
general highly sat- 
isfactory from an 
architectural point 
of view, though 
not so rich in or- 
namentation a s 
others. 

Among the 
other large build- 
ings whereof the 
architecture or the 
material are 
worthy the atten- 
tion of strangeis 
are all of those in 
Wintlirop Square, 
whicli are almost 
unifoiinly rich in 
design and hand- 
some in for ni ; 
two fine buildings 
erected by the 
Sears estate, one 

at the corner of The Brewer Building. 

Summer and Chauncy streets, and the other at the corner of Franklin and 
Devonshire ; the store at the southern corner of Washington and Summer 




100 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



streets ; the Lee Block, at the corner of Siiinmer and Lincoln streets ; several 
massive stone buildings on Bedford Street, and that in wliich the Shoe and 
Leather Exchange is located ; and others which a tour of tlie streets will bring 
to one's notice. 

Within the limits of this district are, as we have said, all the daily newspa- 
per offices, and many of those of the weeklies. The section of A^^ashing■ton 
Street, between State, and just south of Milk Street has come of late years to 
be called " Newspaper Row." 

The office of the Transcript, the oldest of the evening newsi)apers, and next 

to the Advertiser 
the oldest daily in 
the city, is the far- 
thest south. It is 
a literary paper, 
and noted for tlie 
excellence of its 
imseellaneous read- 
ing matter. It has 
been long the fa- 
vorite afternoon 
paper of Boston 
and vicinity, and 
its present quarto 
liu'in is in marked 
I ontrast to its di- 
imuutive begin- 
ning. The Tran- 
script was first 
puV)lished in July, 
1830, and until the 
spring of 1875 the 
senior partner of 
the original firm 
\\as still the head 
of the house. The 

Washington Street: Transcript Office before the F.re. experiment WaS for 

some time one of doubtful success, but no paper in Boston is now more firmly 
established. During the entire period of its publication it has had but six edi- 
tors-in-chief. The late Mr. Daniel Haskell, the fourth of the line, held the 
position for nearly a quarter of a century. The Transcript lias always been a 
pleasant, chatty, tea-table paper, full of fresh news, literary gossip, and choice 
extracts from whatever in any branch of literature is new and entertaining. 
The large and attractive building in which it is now located is on the corner of 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



101 



Washington and Milk Streets. It has several special features that make it a 
particularly cosy and convenient office. The Transcript was unfortunate in the 
fire of 1872, for it was driven suddenly out of an office almost new, and gun- 
powder used in the cellar of tlie adjoining building destroyed its presses, types, 
and other material stored in its tire-proof, but not gunpowder-proof basement. 
The present building is nuicli larger and tiner than the one destroyed. Edward 
H. Clement is the present editor-in-chief of the Transcript. 

A few steps from Washington Street, on Milk Street, is the office of the 
Boston Post. The Post building oc- 
cupies the spot which tradition de- 
clares to have been the birthplace of 
Benjamin Franklin. The first num- 
ber of the Post was issued on the 
9th of November, 1831, by Charles 
G. Greene. In that first number the 
editor promised " to exclude from its 
colunms everything of a vindictive or 
bitter character ; " and although he 
annoiuiced his intention to discuss 
public questions freely and fearlessly, 
he agreed to do so " in a maimer 
that, if it failed to convince, should 
not offend." The promise has been 
faitlifully kept. Tlie Post has fre- 
quently maintained the unpopular 
side in political controversies, but it 
has always done so in such a manner 
as to make almost as many friends 
among those it opposed as among per- 
sons of its own political faith. It lias 
also always maintained a reputation 
for liveliness and cheerful humor that 
has been well deserved. Like the 
Advertiser it devotes a lai-ge por- 
tion of its space to conimercial and 
marine news, and addresses itself to 
business men. The Post was first 
published in its present commodious 
quarters on the morning of August 
31, 1874. It had been driven, by 
street improvements, from the build- Boston Post Building. 

ing occupied during the previous five years. The Post Building has a fine iron 
front, with a bust of Franklin, and is admirably arranged internally. The 
street floor is used for a counting-room and the upper floors for editors' and 




102 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



compositors' rooms. The Post is a large folio, and is sold at two cents a copy. 

It publishes a weekly edition which circulates in different sections of New 

England. 

The Boston Journal is both a morning and an evening paper. It long ago 

obtained an excel- 
lent reputation as 
a general newspa- 
per, both for the 
( ouuting-room and 
the family circle- 
It has a very large 
sale tliroughout 
Massachusetts, 
Maine a n d New 
Hampshire, and in 
consequence of the 
peculiar character 
of its constituency 
has always been 
especially strong in 
its New England 
intelligence. The 
Journal was found- 
ed in 1833, appear- 
ing for the first 
time on February 
5 of that year aS 
the Evening Mer- 
eantile Journal. 
( )n the beginning 
the publication of 
a morning edition, 
The Boston Journal BuMdmg j^. ^^^j^ j^g present 

name. The Journal was the first newspaper in Boston to procure a Hoe press. 
For several years it used two, — one of six cylinders, and the other of eight. 
Subsequently two Hoe perfecting presses capable of printing 60,000 papers an 
hour were substituted, and the stereotyping process introduced. The present 
building was occupied in September, 1860. In Mai-ch, 1880, the interior was 
badly injured by fire. Then it was practically rebuilt, many modern conven- 
iences being introduced. The office is now one of the most convenient news- 
jMiper offices in the city. The retail price of the paper was in the winter of 
1883 reduced to two cents, and the circulation was in consequence considerably 
increased. William W. Clapp is the present conductor of the Journal. 

The Herald Building is on the west side of Wasliington Street, nearly op- 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



103 



posite that of the Journal. The Herakl is a morning and evening paper, with 
a Sunday edition, and has an average daily circulation of over 100,000 copies, 
which is second to that of but one newspaper in America (the New York Sun). 
It has issued as many as 302,030 copies in a single day, a feat which is un- 
equalled in the liistory of journalism. The forms are stereotyped, since no 
other method would enable it to print the requisite number of copies witliin the 
limited available tune. Tliis paper was founded in 1846, as a one-cent daily, by 
the name of the American Eagle ; and two years later assumed its present title, 
and took an independent position in politics, which it has maintained ever since. 
The editorial staff includes 44 persons ; and there are 84 compositors, 30 men 
in the business department, and 11 in the stereotyping foundry. Early in 1878 
the Herald occupied the present building which had been erected for it, with a 
fa9ade in the French Renaissance style, 100 feet high from the side-walk, mas- 
sively constructed and liberally equipped, with copious ornamentation in pure 
marbles, sculptures, metal work, and precious woods. It is quite worth while 
to look into the business office, on the ground-floor, and see its sumptuous 
adornment of many-colored polished marbles, plate-glass, and mahogany, and 
the busy scene which is there continually presented to view. The Herald pub- 
lishes a Sunday edition, in 16-page form, of which 
great numbers are sold. Edwin B. Haskell is the 
editor-in-chief of the Herald, and R. M. Pulsifer is 
the publisher. These gentlemen, with Mr. Charles 
Andrews, are the sole proprietors of the paper. 

The Advertiser Building on the east side of the 
street, Nos. 246 and 248, and extending tlu-ough to 
Devonshire Street, is the newest office in " News- 
paper Row." It is a tall, marble-front structure, tow- 
ering way above its neighbors ; and from its loca- 
tion in the bend of the street as well as its strikinj;- 
appearance architecturally, it is one of the most con- 
spicuous buildings in the quarter. The street floor 
is occupied by the counting-room, a finely decorate( ' 
and uniquely furnished apartment ; the extensive 
basement accommodates the stereotyping, printing, 
mailing, and delivery rooms ; and the upper floors 
are devoted to the editorial rooms, editors' library 
and reception room, and the composition room. The 
building is provided with all the modern imjjrovc- 
ments and appliances which are to be found in the 
best equipped modern newspaper offices ; and the 
entire Advertiser establishment is lighted at night 
by the Edison electric light. The Advertiser is the 
oldest daily paper in Boston, established in 1812. 
years by Nathan Hale. It is an interesting 




ilding. 



The Advertiser 

It was edited for many 
fact that the site of its former 



104 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

building on Court Street, from which it removed to its present building in the 
spring of 1883, is that from which James Franklin issued the first number of 
the New England Courant, in 1721. The same spot was again occupied as a 
printing-office in 1776, by the Independent Chronicle, to the rights of which 
the Advertiser succeeded. The Advertiser is accounted one of the leading 
morning journals of New England. In politics it is now Rejiublican. The 
Boston Evening Record, started Sept. 3, 1881, as a campaign paper, became 
so manifestly popular that it was made a permanent enterprise. It increased 
rapidly in circulation, reaching a daily issue of 35,000 in little more than a 
year. It is a large four-page paper, is sold for one cent, and is published by 
the Advertiser. Its leading feature is the prompt publication of the news in 
attractive shape, with pithy comment. W. E. Barrett directs the editorial 
department of both papers. E. B. Hayes is publisher. 

The Boston Globe occupies the old Transcript building, two doors below the 
new Advertiser building. The first number of the Globe was issued from its 
present office March 4, 1872. It was a quarto sheet, published every morning 
except Sunday, handsomely printed, and Edwin P. Whipple was its literaly 
critic. Though professedly independent in politics, it advocated and main- 
tained the cardinal doctrines of the Republican party. Subsequently it changed 
hands, and was for several years conducted more independently. In 1878 the 
Globe again changed its tone, and also its form, becoming a four-page Dem- 
ocratic paper. It now publishes morning and evening, and Sunday editions 
(the latter of twelve or sixteen pages), competing with the Herald. The pres- 
ent conductor of the Globe is Charles H. Taylor. 

The Evening Traveller occupies a building at the corner of State and Con- 
gress streets, — quarters in which it has been established since 1854. The 
Daily Traveller was first issued on the first of April, 1845, as a two-cent evening 
paper, — the first in Boston to adopt a price so low. The weekly American 
Traveller had then been issued more than twenty years, having been first pub- 
lished in January, 1825. In its day the American Traveller was the great 
paper for stage-coaches and steamboats. When the daily was founded, it 
adopted a course quite different from that of any other paper in Boston. It 
aimed to be a moral and religious organ as well as a medium of news. The 
old traditions are still retained to some extent in the Traveller, but it long ago 
adopted the purveyance of news as its leading object. In this particular its 
reputation is firmly established, the news department, under a liberal manage- 
ment, being always prompt and full. The editorial and composition rooms are 
on the third and fourth floors of the building. The Traveller is owned and 
managed by Roland Worthington, for some years collector of the port of Bos- 
ton. A view of the Traveller Building is given m the illustration of State 
Street, on page 70. 

Within " Newspaper Row " or its immediate neighborhood are the offices of 
the several exclusively Sunday papers, — the Saturday Evening Gazette, con- 
ducted by Colonel Henry G. Parker, which is largely devoted to society news ; 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 105 

the Boston Courier, formerly one of the leading dailies, now conducted by 
Joseph R. Travers, and edited by Arlo Bates ; the Boston Sunday Budget, 
edited by John W. Ryan, formerly of the Courier ; and the Boston Sunday 
Times. Here also are the offices of the Beacon, a literary and society paper 
published Saturdays, the Commercial Bidletin, and other serial publications 
devoted to special interests. 

Farther up Washington Street, nearly opposite the Globe Theatre, is the 
office of The Boston Pilot, which is the headquarters of a vast influence over 
the Roman Catholics of America. It is a weekly paper of large size — the 
largest Catholic paper in America — and has a circidation unequalled by that 
of any other Catholic paper in the world. The Pilot is owned by Archbishop 
Williams and Mr. John Boyle O'Reilly, and is ably edited by the latter, 
whose pen has done distinguished service in other directions, and who has a 
well established reputation as a graceful poet. 

In connection with the newspapers, general and class journals, it may be 
interesting to glance at the cosmopolitan character of the Puritan City, and to 
note the widely divergent elements which go to make up the Bostonian of to- 
day. According to the census of 1880, out of a total population of 362,839, 
there were born in foreign countries 114,796. By far the larger part of the 
foreigners are from Ireland, which has sent 64,793 of the present citizens of 
the New-England metropolis. Canada comes next, with 23,156; Great Britain 
has given us nearly 12,000 in the following detachments: England 8,998; Scot- 
land, 2,662; AVales, 221. It seems that the stream of emigration from the 
Britisli Isles, wliich Maverick and Winthrop started, has not yet ceased to 
flow to the shores of Massachusetts Bay. Germany has now 7,396 representa- 
tives in Boston; Sweden and Norway have 1,686; Holland, 402; Denmark, 196; 
and Russia and Poland, 778. The Latin nations have made but slight contri- 
butions to this great Gothic migration, although 1,277 have come from sunny 
Italy, 1,041 from France and Switzerland, and 810 from Portugal and the 
Western Islands. 

Tlie clubs located within this district are the Temple, tlie oldest in the city, 
and the Paint and Claj^, one of the youngest. The club-house of the former is 
in West Street, situated in its own building, No. 35, op])osite Mason Street 
and near the rear or " carriage " entrance to the Boston Theatre. This is a 
social club organized in 1829. The character of the Paint and Clay is well 
indicated by its name. It is a club of professional men, largely artists. Its 
rooms are on the upper floor of No. 419 Washington Street. It was estab- 
lished in 1880. Exhibitions of work of its artist members are made annually, 
generally in the spring. 

We end this chapter, as we began it, with a view in State Street. This time 
our sketch shows the magnificent row of warehouses at the lower end of State 
Street, known as State Street Block, which contains some of the most substan- 
tially built and commodious stores in Boston. The building, or rather the 
collection of buildings, covers an area 425 feet long on State and Central 



106 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



streets, and is of a uniform depth of 125 feet. The walls are laid in rough 
granite ashlar. The stores have each five stories and a double attic above the 
street, and the height of the buildings from the street to the crown of the 
roof is about 92 feet. The general appearance of tliis block of fifteen stores is 
of extreme solidity. The excellence of construction was proved by fire but a 
week after the great conflagration of November, 1872, when one of these 
stores, filled with exceedingly combustible material, was wholly destroyed 
without doing injury to the stores on either side. 

Many other wharves in Boston besides Long Wharf are covered with solid 
and capacious warehouses, though this State Street Block is the largest and 
most elegant of all. The visitor in the city will find agreeable occupation for 
many a leisure hour in wandering about the wharves, where there is, under the 
revival of commerce in Boston, a perpetual scene of activity. The most im- 
portant wharves in Boston proper beside Long Wharf are those in the imme- 
diate vicinity of State Street, — especially Central, India, and T Wharves, 

where most of the 
large steamers in 
the coasting trade 
arrive, and whence 
they depart. At- 
lantic Avenue, 
which has become 
an important chan- 
nel of communica- 
1 1 o n between the 
several wharves, 
passes directly 
across the f o r e - 
_ 1 ound of our view 
( ^ State Street 
Block. Tliis ave- 
nue was laid out 
in 1868, extended 
1874. It is a broad, 
well - paved street, 
which is almost en- 
tirely given up to 
the heavy drays 
State Street Block. that transfer freight 

from wharf to wharf, or from vessels to the business warehouses. Through 
its centre runs the Union Freight railroad, which unites by a short and easy 
route the northern and the southern railway lines. The line reaches from 
the Lowell Railroad freight station, on Lowell Street, to the Old Colony, on 
Kneeland Street. This company owns no rolling-stock whatever, and its sole 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 107 

office is to transfer freight-cars from one line to another, or from the railroads 
to the wharves. This is done chiefly or altogether by uiglit, and thus the regu- 
lar traffic is not interfered with in the least. By the use of this line it has been 
made possible to load vessels at the large wharves directly from cars brought 
into the city over railroads that have no deep-water connection in the city 
proper. It is owned jointly by the Old Colony and Boston and Providence 
Railroad Companies. 

Before leaving this section of the city notice should be taken of the new sys- 
tem of sewei'age. By this system the mouths t f the numerous common sewers 
which formerly opened into the ocean at different points along the water front 
of the city are connected by intercepting sewers which encircle the city, and 
join the new main sewer on the south side of the city. This main sewer, which 
is 3| miles long, ends at the Pumping Station at Old Harbor Point, on the sea- 
coast in Dorchester, about a mile from any dwelling. In flowing by gravita- 
tion to this point, the sewage descends from 11 to 14 feet below the elevation 
of low tide. To reach its final destination, about 2\ miles further, it is raised 
by pumping about 3.5 feet and flows through a tunnel under Dorchester Bay 
to Squantum, and thence through an open flume to Moon Island, where it is 
stored in a reservoir, and let out into the harbor twice a day at high water. 
The two principal evils of the old system are thus practically corrected. These 
were : First, the damming up of the common sewers by the tide, by which, for 
much of the time, they were converted into stagnant cesspools ; the air in 
tliem was compressed, and to find outlets was driven into house-drains and 
other openings. Second, the discharge of the sewage on the shores of the city 
in tlie immediate vicinity of population, thereby causing imisances at many 
points. It was estimated that in 1869 there were 100 miles of sewers in Bos- 
ton, and in 188G about 226 miles. 



108 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



V. THE SOUTH END. 




I HE South End of Boston, as the term is now understood, is a district 
of residences. It is true that Washington Street, throughout its 
whole length, is largely given up to retail trade, and that a consid- 
erable amount of business is done on other streets. There are, too, 
here and there, large manufactories that are not to be overlooked. But, gener- 
ally speaking, Boylston Street divides the business of the city on the north from 
the residences on the south. It is impossible to predict how long this state of 
things will continue. Boston business is rapidly expanding, and the room to do 
it in must expand likewise. The current is setting decidedly to the south, and 
year by year new advances are made in that direction, by both wholesale and 
retail trade. But we must speak of the existing Hues of division ; and for our 

purposes we r e - 
gard at the pres- 
ent time as the 
South End, all the 
territory bounded 
on the north and 
west by Essex? 
Boylston, and 
Tremont streets, 
and the Boston 
and Albany Rail- 
road, and south by 
the old Roxbury 
Ihie. 

The face of the 
country in this part 
of the city is for 
the most part level ; 
and a very large 
part of the terri- 
tory was reclaimed 
from the sea. 

View in Chester Squaie. Many of the llorSC- 

cars continue to run to the " Neck," but the South End is no longer a neck of 
land. There are many Bostonians yet living who remember when Tremont 
Street was but a shell road across flats. Now it is a broad avenue, and lined 
with modern buildings. Only a few public spaces were reserved in this part 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 109 

of the city. Franklin and Blackstone Squares are merely open spaces, — of 
great value, to be sure, for breathing purposes, but incapable, both from their 
small size and from their flatness, of being made very beautiful. Union Park, 
Worcester Square, and Chester Square have been made desirable for residence 
and for public resort by simple and inexpensive means. The last-named has 
long been a favorite street for dwelling-houses. Through the avenue runs a 
park, narrow at the ends, but swelling out in the centre, in which are trees and 
flowers, with a fountain and a fish-pond, making the place a deliciously cool and 
pleasant spot in midsummer. Most of the streets other than those we have 
named, though generally pleasant, are somewhat monotonous in their appear- 
ance. Their width and cleanness, however, and their air of quiet and repose, 
give a pleasing appearance to this large residence-quarter. The domestic archi- 
tectiu'e exemplifies that pecviliarity of Boston houses, the " swell front," in 
great variety, but lacks the picturesque diversity of the Back-Bay streets. 
Most of the houses are of brick, in long blocks ; and they are sometimes 
beautifully adorned with woodbine or ivy. The South-End buildings extend in 
solid ranks to the Providence Railroad, where they are stopped as evenly as if 
the rails were the waves of the deep sea. 

There are but few public buildings in this section of the city, and we begin 
by giving a view of one that should be characteristic of the district, as well as 
illustrative of the admirable school buildings for which Boston is celebrated, 
— the Latin and High School building, one of the latest and best school-houses 
provided by the city for the education of youth. 

This new School building is a structure that may well be termed imposing. 
It occupies the block bounded by Warren Avenue, Montgomery, Clarendon, 
and Dartmouth streets. The lot upon which it stands is a parallelogram, 423 
feet long and 220 wide. Each of the two principal street fronts is divided into 
three pavilions, one central and two end, three stories in height with basements. 
The structure is of brick with sandstone trimmings, and exterior ornamentation, 
from designs of T. H. Bartlett, the sculptor, consisting mainly of terra-cotta 
heads in the gables of the dormer windows and terra-cotta frieze courses. 
There are main entrances from each street, in the central pavilions, and other 
entrances in each end pavilion. The school-rooms in the building number 48, 
36 of which occupy the street fronts ; the others oi)ening into courts within the 
block. There are large library-rooms on the first floor of the central building, 
lecture halls on the floor above, and on the third floor assembly halls arranged 
in amphitheatre style. On the Montgomery Street front is the laboratory room 
of the English High School, with the lecture-room on the floor below. At the 
easterly end of the block is a large and admirably arranged drill-hall, and over 
this is the gymnasium. At the westerly end will ultimately be built a building 
for the accommodation of the school committee and its officers. The entrance 
to the latin School is on the Warren Avenue front, and that to the English 
High, on the Montgomery Street front. Both the main vestibules are decorated 
with statuary. On the Latin School side is the marble monument, designed by 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



Ill 



Richard S. Greenough, eommemoiatiug the Latin School boys in the war of the 
rebellion, and on the English High School side is a marble group by Benzoni, of 
the " Flight from Pompeii." The latter was the gift of Henry P. Kidder, a 
graduate of the school. The building was dedicated in February 22, 1881. 
Its cost thus far has been about 8750,000. William P. Clough was the archi- 
tect. The Latin School is the oldest in the country, first gathered in 1635, in 
the present School Street, and the English High was established in 1821. 

The Latin School for Girls and the Girls' High School occupy the school- 
building on West Newton Street originally built for the Girls High and Normal 
School, now separated. The building occupies a lot 200 feet on West Newton 
and the same on Pembroke Streets, and 154 feet in depth, and has a front on 




Girls' High Scliool, and Latin School for Girls. 

each street of 144 feet, and a depth of 131 feet. It has an abundance of rooms; 
ai-d collections of all kinds of articles necessary to the instruction here given. 
There are sixty-six separate apartments, exclusive of halls, passages and 
corridors. They are all well lighted and cheerful. The entire building is 
supplied with hot air, radiated from apparatus located in the cellar, and is ven- 
tilated in the most thorough manner. The large hall in the upper story has 
received, through the generosity of a number of ladies and gentleman, a large 
collection of casts of sculpture and statuary. The rooms are connected by 
electric bells and speaking-tubes. On the roof is an octagonal structure, which 
IB designed to be used as an astronomical observatory. In every respect this 



112 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



school-house is suited to the purpose for which it was designed, and is a credit 
to the city. The Latin School for Giils was established in 1878 to furnish a 
traming for girls similar to that offered boys at the old Latin School. The 
Girls' High School was established in 1855 with the Normal School, and in 
1872 the two were separated. The latter now occupies the Rice School build- 
ing on Dartmouth Street. 

On Newton Street, facing Frankhn Sqnare, is the building of the New Eno-- 
land Conservatory of Music, formerly the St. James Hotel. This institution 
was established in 1867 and for many years was located in the Music Hall 
building. It acquired the present building in 1882, and it occupies it entire. 

^^^ ^a^^ The building of an 

^r^^^^^t=^ _ C '" ?s=iisSi: addition at the rear 

j^ ' is contemplated, to 

:=^^^^~ contain a Music 

Hall, and the Great 
Organ built for the 
Music Hall on Win- 
ter Street has been 
purchased for it. As 
at present arranged 
the Conservatory 
)udding has a large 
( oucert-hall, recita- 
tion and practice 
looms, library and 
leading rooms, and 
quarters for pupils 
who board in the 
establishment. The 
Conservatory em- 
braces 16 separate schools, with a college of music for advanced pupils. The 
number of regular pupils is very large. Eben Tourjee is the director. 

Washington Street, after winding through the busiest part of the city, be- 
tween Haymarket Square and Boylston Street, passes on to the southwest, 
along the line of the narrow isthmus which formerly united Boston with the 
mainland. This strip of land was formerly known as " the Neck," and still re- 
tains the name, although the water has long since been pushed back out of sight. 
The chief town-guard was formerly at the line of the present Dover Street, 
where a fortified wall was raised, defended by artillery, and provided with a 
ponderous fortress-gate. From these batteries and others adjacent the British 
garrison, during the siege of 1775, cannonaded the American lines at Roxburj^, 
and sliattered liouses there. The front view from Dover Street now includes 
the great stone Catholic Cathedral, which rises far above all the adjacent 
houses. Washington Street is largely devoted, through the South End, to petty 




New England Conservatory of Music. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



113 



trading, and the chief buildings visible are the large hotels and apartment- 
houses. Opposite the handsome marble front of the Hotel Comfort, near the 
former Roxbury line, is an ancient and neglected gra\eyard which should be 
sacred to every New-Englander, since it enshrines the remains of John Eliot, 
the Apostle to the Indians. The growth and change of tliis part of the city 
appears when we remember that in ancient times wharves were built along the 
seaward side of Washington Street, from Beach Street to Dover Street, and 
the bowsprits of the vessels often obstructed the highway; and that in the year 
1800 there were but two houses between the site of the new Cathedral and 
Roxbury. 

The Cathedral of the Holy Cross, above alluded to, is on Washington and 
Maiden streets, and is the largest church in New England. It v.as begun 
in 1867, and completed in five years. P. C. Keeley 
was the architect. The material is variegated Rox- 
bury stone, and the arcliitecture is the early Eng- 
lish Gothic, the structure covering more ground than 
the cathedrals of Strasburg, Pisa, Vienna, Venice, or 
Salisbury. The interior is grandly effective, and is 
divided by lines of bronzed pillars which uphold a 
lofty clere-story and an open timber roof. The chan- 
cel is very deep, and contains a rich and costly altar ; 
and the great organ, at the other end of the church, is 
one of the best instruments in the country. Th.e im- 
mense windows 
are nearly all 
filled with 
stained glass, 
both foreign and 
American, repre- 
senting various 
scenes and char- 
acters in Chris- 
tian liistory. The 
stained glass is 
defended by 
heavy plate- 
glass two or 
tliree inches out- 
side of it, which 
also aids in 
equalizing the Cathedral of the Holy Cross, 

temperature within. The chancel windows show forth the Crucifixion, Nativity, 
and Ascension, and the transept windows, each of which covers eight hundred 
square feet, represent tlie Finding of the True Cross, and the Exaltation of the 




114 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



Cross by the Emperor Heraclius, after its recovery from the Persians. The 
height of the nave is one hundred and twenty feet, and beneath it are the class- 
rooms and chapels, and the crypt for the burial of bishops. The great organ is 
built around the rose-window on the west. It has 5,292 pipes and nearly 100 
stops, and is of remarkable purity of tone. The chantry, with a smaller organ, 
is near the chancel and the archiepiscopal throne. The Chapel of the Blessed 
Sacrament is a beautiful little architectural gem, at the northeast corner of the 
building, and the Chapel of the Blessed Virgin is at the southeast corner. In 
the rear of the cathedral is the mansion of the archbishop. The ponderous 
towers on the front of the cathedral are to be surmounted by ornate spires, re- 
spectively 300 and 200 feet high (as shown in our engraving), which will doubt- 
less be landmarks for many leagues. Probably something of the same sjiirit 
that led the Old South Society to insert over its church-door a tablet recording 
the fact that it was " desecrated by British soldiers " during the Revolution, 
and that led the people of the old Brattle Square Church to build the caimon- 
ball from Bunker Hill into the wall of their edifice the removal of which was 
so regretted, has inspired the Roman Catholics to construct a part of the wall 
of this cathedral with brick from the ruins of the Ursuline Convent which oc- 




Clty Hospital. 

cupied a picturesque site in Somerville, on a hill just beyond Charlestown neck, 
only a few years ago removed. That convent was burned in 1834 by a mob, 
and it was never rebuilt. 

The Normal Art School is on Washington Street, between Concord and 
Worcester Streets, in a building long known as the " Deacon House." This 
is a state institution, primarily a training school for teachers of drawing in the 
public schools of the state. A building especially for it is being erected on the 
corner of Exeter and Newbury Streets. George H. Bartlett is the director. 

The Commonwealth Hotel, on Washington Street between Worcester and 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



115 



Springfield streets, is the leading one of the few hotels in this district. It is 
well and favorably known, especially as a winter residence for families. The 
naaterial of the front on each of these streets is marble. The hotel is finely 
finished and furnished throughout. 

On Harrison Avenue, east of Washington Street, and parallel with it, are 
several buildings of note. One of the most important is the Boston City Hos- 
pital, built 1861-64. The lot of land on which the buildings stand contains 
nearly seven acres, occupying the entire square bounded by Concord, Albany, 
and Sprhigfield streets, and Harrison Avenue. A large tract of land east of 
Albany Street is also occupied for hospital purposes. The hospital proper 
consists of a central building for administration, pay-patients, and surgical 
operating-room ; two pavilions connected with the central building by corridors ; 
and another pavilion for separate treatment. The architectural effect is fine. 
The institution receives and treats patients gratuitously, though many pay for 
their board, thereby securing separate apartments and additional privileges. 
From three to five thousand patients are received into the building yearly, be- 
sides about ten thousand out-patients ; and the cost to the city is sometimes 
more than ■$ 100,000 a year. 

On Harrison Avenue, nearly opposite the City Hospital, and not far from the 
Cathedral, are the Church of the Immaculate Conception and Boston College 
(wliich is under the auspices of the Jesuits), side by side. The church was be- 
gun in 1857, and dedicated in 1861. It is a solid structure of granite, without 




Church of the Immaculate Conception and Boston College. 



tower or spire. Above the entrance on Harrison Avenue is a statue of the 
Virgin Mary, while above all stands a statue of the Saviour, with outstretched 
arms. The interior of this church is very fine. It is finished mainly in white, 
except at the altar end, where the ornamentation is exceedingly rich and in 
very high colors. The organ is regarded as one of the most brilliant in the 



116 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



city. This oliureh has always been noted for the excellence of its music. The 
College was incorporated in 1863, and has been very successfnl. 

Treniont Street lias been widened at great expense, but no art could avail to 
straighten it. A short distance south of the Common it passes the head of 
Mollis Street, down which the HoUis Street Theatre is seen. This occupies 
the site of the old HoUis Street Church. It was built in 1885 and opened Nov. 
9th with the first performance in Boston of " The Mikado." It is one of the 
most inviting playhouses in the city, substantially built, and tastefully deco- 
rated. Its seating cajjacity is 1,650. Isaac B. Rich is manager. 

Just beyond Hollis Street, Treinont Street diverges to the right, and its 
straight line is kept by Shawmut Avenue, which extends for more than eight 
miles, to Dedhani, the beautiful old shire-town of Norfolk County. Looking 
down this avenue, one sees the spacious stone Church of the Holy Trinity, the 
place of worship of a society of German Catholics, whose tall and graceful spire 
contains a peal of bells. From Tremont Street soon after crossing the rail- 
road bridge, the two brick buildings of the Parker Memorial Hall and the Paine 
Memorial Hall appear on Chandler Street to the right. The first of these was 
erected by the admirers of Theodore Parker, and is occupied by a society of 
radical Unitarians. The Paine Memorial Hall perpetuates the name of 
Thomas Paine, and is used for a great variety of purposes. 

Tremont Street soon reaches the tall and imposing wliite granite front of the 





^Kl'' 







Qdd Fellows' Building. 

Odd Fellows' Hall. This occupies a conspicuous site ou the corner of Berkeley 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



117 



and Treinont streets. The corner-stone was laid in the summer of 1871, and 
the building was in due time completed, and dedicated. It covers about twelve 
thousand square feet, and is four stories in height. With the exception of a 
few offices, all the floors above the street story, which contains several large 
stores, are occupied by the Odd Fellows. There are audience, meeting, ban- 
quet, encampment and other halls with suitable and convenient <ante-rooms, 
library and committee rooms, the grand lodge office, and the grand master's 
private room. The main entrance to all these halls is from Tremont Street. 

On Tremont Street just beyond the Clarendon Hotel is the unique building of 
the " Cyclorama of the Battle of Gettysburg," a permanent exhibition. Union 
Park diverges to the left a little way beyond, and runs down to the Cathedral, 
passing the church over which the Rev. Edward E. Hale is settled. To the 
right are the ponderous arches and handsome facade of the new High School, 
where the Latin and English High Schools are united, in the building already 
described. At the intersection of Tremont and Brookline Streets is the tall 
square campanile of the Shawmut Congregational Church (Rev. Dr. Griffis), 
a building whose interior is very attractive and tasteful ; and on Tremont, be- 
tween Concord and Worcester streets, is the Tremont Methodist Church, which 
is the finest church building belonging to that denomination in the city. It 
was one of the first, 
if not the very first, 
constructed of the 
R o X b u r y stone, 
which has now be- 
come so very pop- 
ular. The plan of 
the church, ynih. its 
spires of unequal 
height at opposite 
corners, is unique, 
and ^ the effect is 
exceedingly pleas- 
mg. The structure 
is in the plain 
Gothic style, and 
stands on a lot 202 
feet long and 100 
feet in depth. The 
entire cost of land, 
buildings, bell, and 
furniture, was only 
i3^68,000. The land 
alone is wort h 
much more than Methodist Church, Tremont Street. 




118 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 




that sum to-day, and the church coukl not be replaced, if it were destroyed, 
for the amount originally paid for the entire estate of the church. The society 
worshipping here was formerly known as the Hedding Church. Meetings were 
first held at the corner of Shawmut Avenue and Canton Street in 1848. A 
brick church was built the next year on South William Street, which was oc- 
cupied until the present edifice was dedicated, on the first of January, 1862. 

Columbus Avenue is one of the finest streets in Boston, and runs from the 
Common southwesterly towards Roxbury, beiug a mile and a half long, straight 
and level, and eighty feet wide. It is paved with a preparation of asphalt, 
which gives a smooth hard surface. At the sides are long lines of blocks of 
residences, — brick, marble, brownstone, and Ohio stone, — with occasional open 
triangular spaces where other streets cross diagonally. The avenue begins at 
Paik Sipiare, at the foot ot the Common, and near the Providence railway sta^ 
tion Tli( fiist nn]>(nt\nt stuct to be intersected is Berkeley Street, and near 

this point are several quite large apartment- 
hotels of the first class. The spacious build- 
ing of the First Presbyterian Church occupies 
one corner; the church and parsonage of the 
People's Church (Methodist) is on another ; 
and a little way beyond is the handsome stone 
structure occupied by Dr. Miner's Universa- 
hst Church, with its tall spire and stained 
windows. A few blocks further out is the 
Union Church (Congregational), a pictur- 
esque, ivy-covered stone building, of Gothic 
aichitecture, occupying the front of an entire 
square with its rambling 
group of church and chap- 
el, and adorned within 
with a high pitched roof 
of open - work timbers. 
Not far away, on War- 
ren Avenue, is the many- 
sided Church of the Dis- 
ciples, of which the Rev. 
James Freeman Clarke is 
the pastor; and one sqiuire 
farther to the north is the 
Warren Avenue Baptist 

Union Congregational Church, Columbus Avenue. Church 

West Chester Park is a broad and pleasant avenue, being built upon quite 
rapidly, which crosses Columbus Avenue near its southern end, and runs out 
across the Back Bay to Beacon Street and the Charles River. From the line 
of this street good views are afforded of the highlands and villages of the Rox- 
bury district and Brookline. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



119 



On the easterly edge of the district we have included in the South End is the 
new passenger station of the Boston and Albany railroad. Before this was built 
the old station had become altogether inadequate for the enormous business 
done by the road, and the city and state authorities urged the abandomnent of 
it, in order to avoid the delays and dangers to foot passengers on Kneeland 
Street. An unsuccessful attempt was made to have the tracks of the Albany 
and those of the Boston and Providence roads so changed as to make it possible 
to consolidate both passenger stations under one roof, the plan being to enlarge 
the Providence railroad station and make that the terminus for both roads, and 
then the Boston and Albany Company determined to build the new structure of 
its own. Tlie site is diagonally opposite the rear of the old station, on Knee- 
land Street. The new building was first occupied in the autumn of 1881. It 
is a fine structure, and furnishes ample accommodation for transacting the busi- 
ness of the road. The head house is 140 by 118 feet, and is three stories high ; 
and the summit of the roof is 80 feet above the ground. The first story is 23 
feet, the second IG, and the third 14. The maui entrance is on Kneeland Street, 
and on the Lincoln Street side there is a covered carriage way. The train house 




Boston and Albany Railroad Station. 

is 450 feet long and of the same width as the head liouse. It has six tracks 
four of them 414 feet long, one 350 feet, and one 250 feet. These tracks are 
divided by fences on the platforms, which are designed to prevent confusion 



120 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



among passengers ; and in order to still further guard against mistakes in tak- 
ing trains, each main gate to the train platforms is in-ovided with printed cards 
showing the stopping places of the trains in waiting, and a dial indicating the 
exact time of departure. A wing 32 by 90 feet, two stories high, on the Lincoln 
Street side, provides room on the lower story for baggage, and in the upper, 
quarters for conductors and brakemen. In the spring of 1886 the Newton Cir- 
cuit was opened. This was completed by connecting the Brookline and New- 
ton Highlands Branch with the main line at Riverside. It is twenty- three 
miles long, and runs through the attractive suburbs of Brookline and Newton. 
The Old Colony Railroad serves the entire south shore of Massachusetts, and 
Cape Cod ; and it also owns the railroad and steand)oat lines to New York, 
widely known as the " Fall River Line." The growth of both local and througli 




Old Colony Railroad Station. 

business on this line during the past few years has been very great, owing to the 
rapid increase of population along the line and the enterprising management of 
the company's att'airs. The passenger station of this road, on Kneeland Street, 
next beyond that of the Boston and Albany, makes no architectural pretensions 
externally, but within it is one of the best structures of the kind in the city. 
Near these important railroad stations is the United States Hotel, on Beach 
Street. Established many years ago, it has always enjoyed a fine reputation as 
a comfortable and admirably managed house. It is on the American plan. 

The oldest South End theatre, the " Windsor," is on the corner of Washing- 
ton and Dover Streets. It is a variety theatre. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 121 



VI. THE HARBOR. 

OSTON HARBOR is protected by the natural breakwater on which 
stands the town of Hnll. This is a singular peninsula, jutting north- 
ward from the South Shore, and partially enclosing an extensive 
body of water. Hull has several points of interest. Nantasket 
Beach, on the side of the peninsula towards the sea, is one of the finest on the 
coast, and it has become a favorite and very popular place of resort in the sum- 
mer. The summer popidation is largest at the lower or southern end of the 
peninsula, while the permanent population is mostly concentrated near the other 
extremity. On the high hill, which overlooks the entire entrance to Boston 
Harbor, is situated the observatory, from which the arrival of vessels, their 
names, and the point whence they come, are telegraphed immediately to the 
Chamber of Commerce in tlie city. Hull is one of the smallest towns in Massa- 
chusetts, and there have been many jokes at its expense on this account. The 
vote of the town is almost always one of the first returned at a general election. 
From this there has arisen the curious saying, " As goes Hull, so goes the 
State," — a saying which is very far from true. Dr. Holmes said in his " Auto- 
crat of the Breakfast-Table," that in this town they read a famous line with a 
mispronunciation pardonable under the circumstances, — 
" All are but parts of one stupendous Hull." 
The harbor of Boston is filled with islands, most of which have a history that 
it would be exceedingly interesting to recount. That of Castle Island, on 
which Fort Independence now stands, is more prominent in Colonial and Revo- 
lutionary annals than any other, both because it was the first island fortified 
and because it was so accessible from the town. This island was the scene of 
many a fatal duel in the olden time. Thompson's Island is remarkable for its 
fantastic shape, which has been likened to that of an unfledged chicken, and 
also for the numerous and protracted controversies that have taken place to 
settle the ownership of the island in the early days of the colony. Spectacle 
Island, so named from its form, was formerly used for quarantine purposes, 
but is now given up to the business of converting retired car horses into a vari- 
ety of useful products. Most of the islands were granted by the General Court, 
during the first years of the settlement of Boston, to persons who agreed to 
pay a yearly rental in shillings or rum for their use. Ultimately they became 
private property either by compounding for the yearly rent or by a sort of pre- 
emption which was accomplished without the aid of any other law than that of 
possession. 

Numerous .steamboats ply between the city and the places of resort in the 
harbor and just outside of it. For reasonable fees one may steam in and out 



X22 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 




hot ween the several islands, and en- 
joy, on the most sultry of days, a 
eool and refreshing breeze, together 
with the most delightful and ever- 
changing scenery. Among a great 
many points of interest along the trip 
down the harbor, only a very few 
can be here mentioned. The first 
fort buUt upon Castle Island was 
constructed in 1634, and since that 
time the island has always been 
fortified. The works have been re- 
built a great many times. Castle 
William stood on this island when 
the Revolutionary war broke out, 
and when the British troops were 
obliged to evacuate Boston they de- 
stroyed the fort and burned it to 
ashes. The Provincial forces then 
took possession of the island, and 
= restored the fort. In 1797 its name 
-■- was formally changed to Fort In- 
j dependence, — the President, John 
§, Adams, being present on the occsi- 
sion. In 1798 the island was ceded 
to the United States. From 1785 
until 1805 this fort was the place 
appointed for the confinement of 
prisoners sentenced to hard labor, 
provision having been made in the 
act of cession to the United States 
that this privilege should be re- 
tained. The present fort is of com- 
paratively recent construction. 

Directly opposite Fort Indepen- 
dence, as one enters or leaves the 
inner harbor by the main ship-chan- 
nel, is the still uncompleted forti- 
fication named Fort Winthrop, on 
Governor's Island. This island w^as 
granted to Governor Winthrop in 
1032, and was subsequently cou- 
tirmed to his heirs. In 1640, the 
condition was made that he should 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



123 



pay one bushel of apples to the Governor and one to the General Court in win- 
ter, annually. It continued in the sole possession of the Winthrop family until 




Fort li depf r Jl 



1808, when a part of it was sold to the government for the purpose of erecting 
a fort, which was named fort Warren. Subsequently the name Fort Warren 
was transferred to the fortifications farther down the harbor, and the name of 




Fort Winthrop. 

Winthrop given to the work now in process of erection, in honor of the gov- 
ernor and the early owners of tlie island. When fully completed, Fort Win- 
throp is intended to be a most important defence to the harbor. 

The present Fort Warren is on George's Island, near the entrance to the 
harbor, and is the most famous of all the defences of the city. George's Is- 
land was claimed as tlie pro2)erty of James Pemberton, of Hull, as early as 
1622. His possession of it having l)een confirmed, it was bought, sold, and in- 
herited by numerous owners, until 1825, when it became the property of the 



124 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



city of Boston. It is now, 




of conrse, under the jurisdiction of the United 
States government. The construc- 
tion of the present fort was begun in 
April, 1833, and was completed in 
1850. The material is finely ham- 
mered Quincy granite, and the stone 
faces, as well as those parts that have 
been protected with earth and sodded 
over, are as neat and trim as art can 
make them. The fort is one of great 
strength, but it has never yet been 
needed to defend the harbor of Bos- 
ton. During the Rebellion it was 
used as a place of confinement for 
noted Confederate prisoners, the 
most famous of all being the rebel 
commissioners to Europe, Mason 
and Slidel, wlio were sent here for 
. confinement after their capture on 
-Q board the Trent by Commodore 
X Wilkes. 

o About two miles from Fort War- 
o ren, nearly due east, and at the en- 
£ trance of the harbor, is the Boston 
t Light. The island on which it stands 
^ has been used as a lighthouse sta- 

o tion since 1715, when the General 

u. 

Court of the colony passed the nec- 
essary acts. The laud was generous- 
ly given to the colony by the owners 
of it, though as there is soil on only 
about three quarters of an acre, the 
rest of the two or three acres being 
bare, jagged rock, the gift entailed 
no gi-eat loss upon them. In the 
time of the Revolution, the light- 
house was the object of much small 
warfare, and was several times de- 
stroyed and rebuilt. In 1783 it was 
once more I'cstored by the State, be- 
ing built this time of stone ; and it 
is this lighthouse which still stands 
at the mouth of the harbor, though 
it has since been enlarged and re- 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



125 



fitted several times. The top of the lighthouse now stands ninety-eight feet 
above the level of the sea, and is fitted Avith a revohdiig light which can be 
deen from a distance of sixteen nautical miles in fair weather. 




Boston Light. 

StUl nearer to Fort Warren, and on the direct line to Boston Light is the 
Spit, or Bug Light. 
It is a etirious struc- 
ture. ^T^he lower 
part is a system of 
iron pillars fixed m 
the rock, affordm<> 
no surface for the 
waves to beat 
against anddestio\ 
The fixed red light 
is about thirty-h\( 
feet above the levex 
of the sea, and can 
be seen at a dis- 
tance of about 
seven miles in clear 
weather. This light was built in 1856 




Bug Light. 



Its object is to warn navigators of 
the dangerous obstacle known as Harding's Ledge, about two miles out at sea, 
east of Point Allerton, at the head of Nantasket Beach. 

The lighthouse on Long Island was built in 1811). The tower is twenty-two 



126 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



feet in height, but the light is eighty feet above the level of the sea. The 
tower is of iron, painted white ; the lantern has nine burners ; the light is fixed, 
and can be seen in a clear night about fifteen miles. There have been several 




Long Island Light. 

attempts to make Long Island a place for summer residences. In 1885 it was 
pun-h;vsed by the city, and public charitable institutions are to be established 
upon it. 

East of Long Island head there is a low, rocky island on which stands a sin- 
gularly shaped monument. It consists of a solid structure of stone, twelve feet 
in height, and forty feet square. All the stones in this piece of masonry are 
securely fastened together with copper. Upon it stands an octagonal pyramid 
of wood, twenty feet high, and painted black. It is supposed that this monu- 
ment was erected in the earliest years of the 
present century, though the date is not known. 
Its purpose was to warn vessels of one of the 
most dangerous shoals in the harbor. This Is- 
land is known as Nix's Mate, though for what 
reason is not known. There is a tradition, un- 
supported by facts, tliat the mate of a vessel of 
which one Captain Nix was master, was executed 
Nix's Mate. upon the island for killing the latter. But it was 

known as " Nixes Hand," as long ago as 163G, before any execution for mur- 
der or piracy had taken place in the colony, and this would seem to dispose of 
the story. Several pirates have since been hanged there. One William Fly 
was hanged there in chains in 172G for piracy, on which occasion, the Boston 
News Letter informs us, Fly " behaved himself very unbecomingly, even to the 
last." It is a part of the tradition above referred to that Nix's Mate declared 
his innocence, and asserted, as a proof of it, that the island would be washed 
away. If any such prophecy was ever made, it has certainly been fulfilled. We 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



127 



know by the records that it contained in the neighborhood of twelve acres in 
163G ; there is now not more than one acre of slioal, and there is not a vestige 
of soil remaining. 

Point Shirley is the southern extremity of the town of Winthrop, but it prop- 
erly comes into any notice of Boston harbor. Its chief attraction is Taft's 
Hotel, noted for its fish and game dinners. Indeed Point Shirley, ever since it 
received its present name, has been synonymous with good cheer. A company 
of merchants purchased it in 1753, designing to establish a fishery station. 
They never put the property to its intended use, but when they were ready to 




Point Shirley. 

advertise the place, they invited Governor Shirley to go down to the spot with 
them. He accepted, the party had a fine time and a fine dinner, and by per- 
mission of his Excellency, what had before been known as Pulling Point was 
dubbed Point Shirley. The name of Pulling Point has since been transferred 
to another point of land on the same peninstila. 

We have only glanced at the harbor and a few of the numerous places of in- 
terest in and about it. The islands in the harbor are many, and of very pecu- 
liar shapes, which fact has given some of them their names, — as, for instance. 
Spectacle, Half Moon, and Apple Islands. Few of them are occupied, and sev- 
eral are uninhabitable, but the sail among and around them is in the summer- 
time a most agreeable change from the hot brick walls and dusty streets of the 
city. If we extend our view beyond the harbor along the north shore we shall 
see Revere Beach, — one of the finest on the coast, — Lynn, and Nahant. 
Both the latter places may easily be visited by steamers. Nahant is perhaps 
the chief glory of the north shore. It is a peninsula connected with tlie main- 
land at Lynn by a long narrow neck, upon which is a noble beach. Those who 
dwell upon the peninsida regard its comparative uiaccessibility as somethmg 
sti-ongly in its favor. They have not allowed a large hotel to be erected upon it 
since the destruction by fire of one that formerly stood in the town. Nahant i» 



128 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

a favorite resort for picnickers, for whom a place has been specially provided 
which is fantastically called Maolis Gardens, — Maolis being notliing more than 
Siloam spelled backwards. For the rest, Nahant is occupied by wealthy citi- 
zens of Boston who have erected for themselves in this secluded place elegant 
snniiner residences where, in the midst of their gardens and groves and lawns, 
they may live as freely and quietly as they wish. The sea-view is magnificent. 
The peninsula lies near to the entrance of Boston Harbor, and is practically 
an island at some distance from the coast. All the grandeur of the sea in a 
a storm, and all the beauty of the sea on a fine day when the horizon is dotted 
with the white sails of arrivmg and departing vessels, the dwellers at Nahant 
enjoy at their grandest and most beautiful. Beyond Nahant are Egg Rock, a 
small island still farther than Nahant from the coast ; Marblehead Neck and 
Pomt, which are rapidly commg into favor as siumner resorts ; Swampscott, 
already one of the most fashionable of the coast watering-places ; and Cape 
Ami, with its succession of beautiful sea-side villages, — Beverly Farms, Man- 
chester, Gloucester, Rockport, and Pigeon Cove. On the south coast we may 
find equally interesting and equally beautiful places. At Hingham, among 
other objects to be noticed, is the oldest church edifice in the country ; and off 
Cohasset is the famous Mmot's Ledge Lighthouse, a solid stone structure that 
stands where a former lighthouse was destroyed by a storm some years ago, on 
one of the most dangerous and most dreaded rocks upon our coast. 





VII. NEW BOSTON AND THE SUBURBS. 

E have already said that Boston has grown in territorial extent not 
only by robbing the sea, but by absorbing other outlying tracts of 
land and whole municipalities. The first addition of the latter kind 
was made in 1637, when Noddle's Island was " layd to Boston," and 
its name changed to East Boston. It was practically uninhabited, however, 
until 1833, when a company of capitalists bought the entire island and laid it 
out for improvement. Its growth since that time has been rapid, but it is still 
capable of great increase in population, as well as in wealth and business. A 
part of South Boston was taken from Dorchester in 1804 by the Legislature, 
much against the will of the people of that town, and annexed to Boston. 
Again, in 1855, the General Court added to the territory of the city by givmg 
to it that part of South Boston known as Washington Village. However, Bos- 
ton has now made peace with Dorchester by taking to itself all that re- 
mained of that ancient town. Roxbury, which had a history of its own, and a 
name which many of the citizens were exceedingly loath to part with, became 
a part of Boston on the 0th of January, 1868. It was incorporated as a town 
but a few days after Boston, it was the home of many distinguished men in the 
annals of Massachusetts and the country, and it took a glorious part in the sev- 
eral struggles iu which the Colonies and the Union were engaged. In the old 
times, when that narrow neck of land to which we have repeatedly alluded in 
the previous pages, was the only connection between Boston and Roxbury, there 
were good reasons why the two should be under separate governments ; but 
long ago the two cities had met, and joined each other. Dorchester was incor- 
porated the same day as Boston. It too had its history, and but for the mani- 
fest advantages to both municipalities of a union, might have retained its sep- 
arate existence. The act of union, passed by the Legislature in June, 1869, 
was accepted by the voters of both places the same month, and the union was 
consummated on the 3d of January, 1870. The Legislature of 1873 passed 
separate acts annexing Charlestown, West Roxbury, Brookline, and Brighton, 
to Boston, each case being made independent of the others and dependent upon 
the consent of the parties to the union. Only Brookline uttered a " nay " to 
the wooer, and the other three became parts of Boston at the begimiing of 1874. 
It is with a few among the many objects of interest in these outlying parts of 
Boston, and iu the suburbs, that we shall have to do in this chapter. 

One of the most interesting of the public institutions in the city is the Per- 
kins Institution and Massachusetts Asylum for the Blind, at South Boston. It 
9 



130 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



has been more than fifty years in operation with uninterrupted and most re- 
markable success. It was instituted in 1831. In the following year, Dr. Sam- 
uel G. Howe undertook its organization; and began operations with sLs blind 
children as the nucleus of a school. For a year the institution was greatly ham- 
pered by a lack of funds ; but a promise of an annual grant by the Legisla- 
ture, a generous sum raised by a ladies' fair, and liberal contributions by the 

,^ people of Boston^ 

speedily settled the 
financial question 
and opened a pe- 
riod of prosperity 
a n d usefulness 
which has c o n - 
tinned to the pres- 
ent time. Won- 
ders have been 
accomplished i n 
the institution in 
the instruction of 
unfortunate youth 
deprived of sight; 
and in some cases, 
notably that of 
Laura Bridgman 
the absence of the 
sense o f hearing 
also has not been 
an insuperable ob- 
stacle to learning. 

Pe.kins Institution for the Blind. Tllis asylum WaS 

under the direction of Dr. Howe, its founder, until his death in 1877, and a 
great deal of the success of the experiment is to be credited to liis pecidiar fit- 
ness for the position, and to his devotion to its interests. His son-in-law, Mr. 
Michael Anagnos, is at present at the head of the institution as Superintendent. 
The main building is situated on high ground on Mount Washington. Of late 
years the plan of the institution has been changed. The sexes are entirely sep- 
arated, the women occupying dwelling-houses built for the purpose. The in- 
mates, of both sexes, are divided into families, each of which keeps a separate 
account of its expenses. The Asylum is partly self-supporting, such of the pupils 
as are able to pay maintainmg themselves as at a boarding-school, and all the 
pupils being taught some useful trade. Several States, particidarly the New 
England States, pay for the support of a large number of beneficiaries. 

In East Boston are the extensive terminal improvements of the Boston and 
Albany railroad made since the purchase by the company of the Grand June- 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



131 



tion railroad and wharf. The railroad forms a connpction between the main 



line of the Boston and Al- 
bany, and the Fitchburg, 
Lowell, Eastern, and Bos- 
ton and Maine railroads, 
and gives the Albany road 
a deep - water connection. 
Wlieat - trains from the • 
West are here emptied of 
their contents by macliin- 
ery directly into an eleva- 
tor wliich has a capacity of 
a million bushels, from 
which in turn vessels may 
be rapidly loaded. Ample 
facilities are afforded for 
loading and unloading the 
Cunard and other lines of 
steamships ; while the facil- 
ities for the reception and 
dispatch o f immigrants 
here are unequalled by 
those of any other city on 
the continent. Immigrants 
who are to continue their 
journey by land into other 
States are provided wth 
every comfort, and are 
completely secluded from 
sharpers, who are always 
on the look-out for an op- 
portunity to swindle, until 
they are sent a w a y in 
trains over the Grand Junc- 
tion and the Boston and 
Albany roads without be- 
ing compelled even to pass 
through the city. The 
amount of business trans- 
acted at this wharf is im- 
mense. The railroad and 
wharves were built in 1850- 
51, and on the occasion of 



their opening a tlvree days' jubilee was held in Boston, in which many nota- 




132 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



bles, the President of the United States among tlieni, 




First Church in Roxbury, and the Norfolk House. 

converge, is a small park in the Roxbury district, \v 
points of interest. Here stand? the old 
Unit a r i a n meeting-house of the first 
ehuroh in Roxbury, taking rank in age 
next after the first church in Boston. 
Over this church the Rev. Dr. George 
Putnam was settled as pastor for over 
forty years. The dwelling-houses in this 
square are many of them old, this part 
of the Roxbury district ha\nng been set- 
tled long before the over-crowded streets 
of Boston sent thousands of the citizens 
to seek sites for modern villas on the 
more picturesque hillsides of this and 
other suburban districts of the city and 
towns. On this square, too, stands the 
Norfolk House, a fine building externally, 
and a favorite 
boarding-hotel. 

One of the most 
important impi-ovo- 
meiits in tlie Cochit- 
nate Water- Works 
was made in 1869, 
when the stand-pipe 
in the Roxbury dis- 
trict was erected 

and put in use. By Stand-Pipe of CochitU3le Water-Works. 




participated. But the 
enterprise did not 
pay. And when 
the present own- 
ers came into pos- 
session of the prop- 
erty in 1868, no 
train had been run 
over the road in 
fourteen years. 
Vast improve- 
ments have been 
made since then. 

Eliot Square, in- 
to wliich Dudley, 
Roxbury, and 
Highland Streets 
hich possesses several 
this simple expe- 
dient, wliich has been 
found to work ad- 
mirably in practice, 
the " head " of water 
is increased over the 
whole city so greatly 
that the water is 
forced to the liigliest 
levels occupied by 
dwelling-houses. The 
stand-pipe is on the 
" Old Fort " lot in 
Roxbury, between 
Beech - Glen Avenue 
a n d Fort Avenue. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



133 



The base of the shaft is 158 feet above tide marsh level. The interior pipe 
is a cylinder of boiler iron, eighty feet long ; and around this pipe, but withm 
the exterior wall of brick, is a winding staircase leading to a lookout at the 
top. The total cost of the structure and the puniping-works connected with 
it was about $100,000. It was at first mtended to supply high service to 
only those parts of the city at the higher levels, but its capacity was found 
adequate to the supply of the whole city, and the use of the old reservoir on 
Beacon Hill was therefore abandoned. 

The Roxbuiy district always had a good reputation for remembering its 
great men. We have still in this district Dudley, Eustis, and Warren Streets, 
and numerous others named in memory of distinguished citizens. General 
Joseph Warren has been especially remembered, for besides the street which 
bears his name, tliere is a steam fire-engine called after him, and the dwelling- 
house that stands on the spot where his house stood, bears a tablet commem- 
orating the fact. Tlie house stands in a charming site behind a row of fine 
old trees. 

The Dorchester district was a delightful old town, and is a charming new 
district of the city. It retains many of its ancient characteristics, and some 
of its quaint old houses are still preserved. Since its annexation to the city it 
has been rapidly built up, and it is now a district of pleasant rural homes and 
charming country houses, with many of the conveniences and comforts of the 
city. Its picturesqixe hills and fine old woods have made it <a favorite place 
for the erection ^^ ^ 

of elegant resi- '^^^^^^^^'^^ 

dences. On < -- ^^^^^^ '^.-^cf^ 

many of these 
estates large 
sums of money 
have been lav- 
ished, and the 
skill of the ar- 
chitect and the 
art of the land- 
scape- gardenei 
invoked to ren- 
der them as at- 
tractive as pos- 
sible. By such 
means the scen- 
ery of Dorches- 
ter has been 
made exceed- 
ingly rich and varied. Here a road passes through the midst of large and finely- 
kept estates, surrounding handsome dwelling-houses, to plunge into a wilderness. 




Meeting-House Hill. 



184 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 




where the fields are barren and rocky, 
and tlie forests in all their primitive 
wildness. Again we come upon a 
thriving village, and pass out of it 
to find new beauties by the seaside. 
We give two views of Dorchester 
scenery, the one showing Meeting- 
House Hill, which is one of the land- 
marks in Dorchester, and the other 
Savin Hill, as seen from Dorchester 
Point, — the first belonging to the 
older part of Dorchester, the latter 
more modern as a place of resi- 
dence. 

The estate known as Grove Hall, 

at the junction of Warren Street 

n and Blue Hill Avenue, in the Dor- 

o _ . ' 

~ Chester disti-ict, was purchased for 

^ tlie Consumptives' Home a few years 

J ago, and is now occupied by that and 

<J its attendant institutions. It is a 

large and s])acious mansion, and is 
^ surrounded by ample grounds, 
|[: making the situation a most pleas- 
i ant retreat for the poor, diseased 

1 people who come here for treatment 
^ and cure, or for a comfortable home 

until they are released from suffer- 
ing by death. The system on which 
the Consumptives' Home is sup- 
jiorted is the same as that upon 
which the famous orphan asylum of 
Midler is maintained. The founder 
was Dr. Charles Cullis. He calls 
his institution a " Work of Faith " 
because he says he depends entirely 
upon prayer for contributions to sus- 
tain it. The usual number of pa- 
tients is from thirty-five to fifty ; it 
scarcely need be said that there are 
frequent changes, owing to the hope- 
less nature of the disease. The plan 
of tlie institution is to admit all poor 
])ersons sick with consumption, and 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



135 




without home or friends to relieve them, old or young, blaek or white, native 

or foreign. 

The history of the Boston Water- Works be- 
longs properly in a description of the Brighton 
District, where the most extensive and costly 
work is. The original public introduction of 
water, which dates from October 25, 1848, is 
_ mentioned in the descrip- 

~~ ~^ tion of the Common in 

preceding pages. The 
growth of the city has 
been so rapid that what 
was originally calculated 
to be a sufficient supply 
of water for half a cen- 
tury was, in a few years, 
found to be inadequate. 
Again and again have 
measures been taken to 
make good the deficiency. 
In 1872 a comprehensive 

Consumptives' Home, Dorchester District. Scheme waS entered upon 

which, it was hoijed, would avert for an indefinite period all fears of a water 

famine. That this hope has been disappointed and that a still more extensive 

and expensive 

scheme has been 

adopted, namely the 

introduction of the 

use of the Sudbury 

River, is matter of 

history. 

The necessity for 
building a new reser- 
voir, for the pur- 
pose of storing the 
water that usually 
ran to waste over the 
dam at Lake Cochi- 
tuate during and af- 
ter the spring and 
fall freshets, was 
urged by the Water 
Board in 1863. In 




Entrance to the Reservoir grounds. 



1865 the Legislature gave the necessary authority to the city; purchases of 



136 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



13T 








Gate House, Chestnut Hil 

double reservoir, being divided 
by a water-tight dam into two 
basins of irregular shape. The 
surface of water in both is about 
one hundred and twenty-five acres, 
and when filled to their fullest 
capacity the two basins will hold 
nearly eight hundred million gal- 
lons. As we have said, this ad- 
dition to the works has been 
found inadequate, and in 1872 au- 
thority was obtamed for the city 
to take water from the Sudbury 
River. A temporary supply was 



land were made, and the 
work begun. More than two 
hundred acres of land, cost- 
ing about $120,000, were 
deeded to the city before the 
reservoir was finished. Like 
the Brookline Reservoir, it 
( onstituted a natural basin. 
It is five miles from the Bos- 
ton City Hall, and one mile 
from the Brooklme Reservoir. 
It lies wholly in the Brigh- 
ton District near Chestnut 
Hill, from which it derives 
its name. It is, in fact, a 







The Dr ve, on the Marg n of the small Reservoir. 



138 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



procured 



by connecting the river with Lake Cocliituate, and the work of bring- 
ing the water to the reservoirs by 
independent mains was promptly 
carried ont. 

Tlie Chestnnt Hill Reservoir is a 
great pleasure resort. A beautiful 
drive-way, varying from sixty to 
eighty feet in width, surrounds the 
entire work. In some i)arts the road 
runs along close to the embankment, 
sejiarated from it only by the beauti- 
ful gravelled walk with the sodding 
on either side. Elsewhere it leaves 
the embankment and rises to a higher 
level at a little distance, from which 
an uninterrupted view of the entire 
reservoir can be had. The scenery 
in the neighborhood is so varied that 
it would of itself make this region a 
delightful one for i)leasure driving, 
without the added attiactions of the 
eharming sheet of water, the grace- 
ful curvatures of the road, and the 
neat, trim appearance of the green- 
sward that lines it throughout its 
entire length. 

Before the introduction of water 
from Lake Cocliituate the city was 
dependent upon wells and springs, 
and \ipon Jamaica Pond, in West 
Koxbury, whit-h is now Ward Twen- 
ty-three of Boston. A company was 
incorporated in 1795 to bring water 
into Boston from that source, and its 
powers were enlarged by subsequent 
acts. It was for a long time a bad 
investment for the shareholders. 
Afterwards the e o m p a n y had a 
greater degree of prosperity, and at 
one time it supplied at least flfteen 
bundled houses in Boston. The 
water was conveyed through the 
streets by four main pipes, consist- 
ing of pine logs. Two of these were 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



139 



of four inches, and two of three inches, bore 
the city was carried nearly as far 
north as State Street. In 1840 an 
iron main, ten inches in diameter, 
was laid through the whole length 
of Tremont Street to Bowdoin 
Square. But the prospective wants 
of the city were far beyond the 
capacity of Jamaica Pond to sup- 
ply, and the Lake Cochituate en- 
terprise not only prevented the 
acqueduct company from enlarg- 
ing its operations, but rendered 
all its outlay in Boston useless 
and valueless. The city, h o w- 
ever, made compensation by pur- 
chasing the franchise and property 
for the sum of $45,000, in 1851. 
The property, minus the franchise, 
which the city of course wished to 
extinguish, was sold in 1856, for 
$32,000. At present the chief 
practical use of Jamaica Pond is 
to furnish in winter a large quan- 
tity of ice, which is cut and stored 
in the large houses on its banks, for 
consumption in the warm weather. 
It is a great resort for young and 
some older people in the winter 
for skating. Handsome estates line 
its banks, and the drive around it 
is one of the most beautiful of the 
many which make the suburbs of 
Boston so attractive to its own cit- 
izens and to strangers. In summer 
there is much pleasure sailing and 
rowing on the pond, and in past 
years there have been several in- 
teresting regattas upon it. 

Forest Hills Cemetery, also in 
the West Roxbury district was orig- 
inally established by the city of 
Roxbury, of which the town at the 
time formed a part. It was sub- 



The water thus brought into 




140 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 




sequently conveyed to the predecessors of the present proprietors. It is a little 

larger in territory 
than Mount Au- 
burn. It contains 
a great number of 
uiteresting niemo- 
iials. The burial- 
lot of the War- 



len family is on 
the summit of 
Mount Warren. 
The remains of 
G e n er a 1 Joseph 
Warren, ,who fell 
a t Bunker Hill, 
ha\ e b e e n taken 
from the Old 
Gianary Burying- 
Giound in Boston, 
" Entrance to Forest Hills. and reiutcrrcd in 

tliis cemetery. Within recent years an impressive receiving-tomb has been 
built at Forest Hills. The portico 
is nearly thirty feet square, and 
is built in the Gotliic style of archi- 
tecture in Concord granite. Its 
appearance is massive, without be- 
ing cumbersome. Within there 
are two hundred and eighty-six 
catacombs, each for a single coffin, 
which are closely sealed up after 
an interment. Tlie entrance gate- 
way to Forest Hills Cemetery is 
a uni(|ue and striking structure 
of Roxbury stone and Caledonia 
freestone. The inscription upon 
the face of the outer gateway 
is, — 



" I AM THE RESUKKECTION AND THE 
LIFE," 

in golden letters. On the inner face 
is in similar letters the inscrip- 
tion, — 
"he that keepeth thee will not 

SLUMBER." Bunker Hill Monument. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



141 



The grounds of the cemetery, like those of Mount Auburn, are exceedingly 
picturesque, the variety of hill 
and dale, greensward, tliickets 
of trees, pleasant sheets of wa- 
ter, and rocky eminences, mak- 
ing the place an attractive spot. 

The Charlestown district is 
noted for containing Bunker 
Hill, as interesting a spot as 
Revolutionary history can 
boast. And the monument 
that crowns the hill is so con- 
spicuous as hardly to require 
that attention should be direct- 
ed to it. The event it celebrates 
and the consequences of that 
event, the appearance of this 
imposing granite shaft, and the 
magnificent view of the entire 
surrounding country to be ob- 
tained from its observatory, 
are, or should be, familiar to 
every citizen of New England; 
and no visitor to Boston from 
more distant parts of the coun- 
try is likely to return home 
without ascending the monu- 
ment, as a good patriot. The 
oration delivered by Daniel 
Webster at the dedication of 
the monument on the anniver- 
sary of the battle of Bunker 
Hill, the 17th of June, 1843, 
has been declaimed by many a 
school-boy. 

Within the m o n u m e n t 
grounds, standing in the main 
path, is the new bronze statue 
of Colonel William Prescott, 
by W. W. Story. This is of 
heroic size, and is intended to 
depict Prescott the moment 
that he uttered the warning 
words, to the patriot soldiers, 




142 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

" Don^tjire until I tell you j dori't fire until you see the tohites of their eyes." The 
statue was unveiled with formal ceremonies ou June 17, 1881, when Robert 
C. Wintlu'op delivered an oration. 

No visitor to Charlestowu should leave it until he has visited the United 
States Navy Yard, established by the goveriunent in the year 1800. The yard 
has since been very greatly enlarged, and extensive and costly buildings have 
been erected ujion it. The dry-dock, which was begun in July, 1827, and com- 
pleted six years later, is a most substantial work of granite masonry, 341 feet 
long, 80 feet wide, and 30 feet deep, which cost, even in those days of low 
prices, ^675,000. The granite ropewalk too, the fuiest structure of the kind in 
the country, and a quarter of a mile in length, will not fail to attract attention. 
Several of the largest vessels of our old navy were built at tliis yard. Of late, 
while the government has been reducing, rather than increasing, its naval force, 
the work here has been confined cliiefly to repairs upon old vessels, and the 
busy activity of past years is no longer seen. Its sale has been agitated in re- 
cent years. 

The United States Marine Hospital at Chelsea, wliich appears ou the right 
in the background of the sketch of the Navy Yard, is a large and handsome 
structure upon the crest of a liigh hill, near the mouth of the Mystic River. 
Tliis institution, as well as the Naval Hospital, at the foot of the same hill, 
was erected and is maintained by the general government for the benefit of 
invalid sailors. The situation is salubrious, and the prospect from the Marine 
Hospital, overlooking as it does the harbor and two or thi'ee cities, is very 
fuie. 

No other city in the country can boast such suburbs as Boston has. For 
extent and beauty, they are unrivalled. Tlie picturesque hills, separated by 
beautifully mnding rivers, make, of themselves, an ever-varied landscape. 
Art has added greatly to the beauties wliich nature has so lavishly scattered. 
Many available sites for fine country residences have been occupied, and all 
that wealth could do to improve upon natural attractions has been done. 
But this is not all. Large cities and a score of flourishing towns have sprung 
up, where city and country are pleasantly commingled ; and everywhere through- 
out the large district of which Boston is the centre may be seen evidences 
of industry and thrift, excellent roads, neat fences and hedges, thriving gar- 
dens and orchards, comfortable, tastefully built, and well-painted houses. 

Passing into Cambridge we must first notice it as the site of the most famous 
university in the country. It was but six years after the settlement of Boston 
that the General Court appropiated four hundred pounds for the establishment 
of a school or college at Newtown, as Cambridge was then called. As this sum 
was equal to a whole year's tax of the entire colony, we may infer in what esti- 
mation the earliest colonists held a liberal education. Two years after, the in- 
stitution received the liberal bequest of eight hundred pounds from the estate 
of the Rev. John Harvard, an English clergyman, who died at Charlestowu in 
1638. The General Court, in consequence of this bequest, named the college 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



143 



after its generous benefactor, and changed the name of the town where it was 
located to Cambridge, Mr. Harvard having been educated at Cambridge in old 




Gore Hall, Harvard College. 

England. The college was thus placed on a firm foundation; and by good 
management and the prevalence of liberal ideas, under the fostering care of 
the Colony and the State, and the almost lavish generosity of alumni and other 
friends, it has assumed and steadily maintained the leading position among the 
colleges of the country, its only rival being Yale. The college long ago became 
a university. Schools of law, medicine, dentistry, theology, science, mining, 
and agriculture, have been established in connection with it, each endowed with 
its own funds, and each independent of all the otliers, except that all are under 
one general management. The college yard contains a little more than twenty- 
two acres, and nearly the whole available space is already occupied by the nu- 
merous buildings required by an institution of such magnitude. Some of the 
more recently erected dormitories are fine specimens of architecture, and ad- 
mirably suited to the use for which they were designed. Among these are 
Thayer Hall, an imposing structure containing sixty-eight suites of roonas, built 
in 1870, at a cost of $115,000 ; Grays Hall, a long five-story brick building, 
erected in 1863, and containing fifty-two suites; and Matthews Hall, an ornate 
Gothic edifice, which was built in 1872, at a cost of $120,000. An important 
change was effected in 1865, after long discussion, in the government of the uni- 
versity ; the overseers, constituting the second and more numerous branch of 
the university legislature, were originally the Governor and Deputy Governor, 
with all the magistrates, and the ministers of the six adjoining towns. After 
numerous changes, which were, however, only changes in the manner of select- 



144 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



145 



ing the clergymen who should constitute this board, the power of choosing the 
overseers was, in 1851, vested in the Legislature. All this system has since 
been abolished. The graduates of the college now choose the entire board. 
Another change, which has been gradually gomg on for some years, gives stu- 
dents a much wider range of studies than formerly. The number of elective 
studies has very greatly increased, and one is not now, as formerly, compelled 
to pursue a fixed and unalterable course, but may choose the branches he will 
pursue in accordance vrith his tastes and his intended business in life. There 




Memorial Hall. 

are about 1,400 students, in all branches of the university, and 160 professors 
and teachers of various grades. Without speaking of the various society libra- 
ries, the university has eio^ht minor libraries connected with various depart- 
ments, and containing over 60,000 volumes ; while the college library has more 
than 250,000 volumes. The latter is in Gore Hall, a Gothic building of Quincy 
granite, erected in 1841, and reinforced in 1877 by a very large fire-proof 
extension of granite and iron. There are but two libraries in America larger 
than this one, those of the city of Boston and of Congress ; and its privileges 
are generously extended to men of letters outside of the university jurisdiction. 
Memorial Hall is architecturally the finest building connected with the univer- 
sity, and was erected by the alumni to commemorate the sons of Harvard who 
died in the civil war. It was built between 1870 and 1877, at a cost of !$500,000, 
10 



146 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

and is of brick and sandstone, 310 feet long and 115 feet wide. The central 
division is the Memorial Transept, 115 feet long and 58 feet high to the hand- 
some wooden vaulting, and having high black-walnut screens around the walls, 
in which are set twenty-eight marble tablets bearing the names of the fallen 
patriots, and the places and times of their deaths. Over this ti'ansept the 
great tower rises to the height of 200 feet, and forms a conspicuous landmark. 
The great hall opens from the transept, and is 164 feet long, 60 feet wide, and 
80 feet high to its splendid timber roof, with galleries at either end, and at the 
west end an immense stained-glass window, bearing the arms of the Republic, 
the State, and the University. The high wainscoting around the haU is 
adorned with scores of portraits and busts of ancient and modern worthies of 
New England and of Harvard, rare productions from the pencils of Copley, 
Stuart, Trumbull, Hunt, Harding, Powers, Story, Crawford, Greenough, and 
other eminent artists (descriptive catalogvies at the east end). The hall is now 
used as the refectory of the students. The Sanders Theatre is entered from 
the other side of the transept, and is a beautiful semicircular hall with graded 
seats, accommodating 1,500 persons. 

The statue of John Harvard, which stands on " the delta," was designed by 
Daniel G. French, of Concord, and was given to the university by Samuel J. 
Bridge. It was dedicated Oct. 15, 1884. It represents a young Puritan scholar, 
with a delicate but resolute face. It is regarded as a fine piece of work. On 
the Common, near the university, is a stately monument, fifty-six feet high, and 
crowned by a statue of a soldier, erected in memory of 938 men of Cambridge 
who perished in the civil war. About the base are four ancient cannon, which 
were used in the Revolutionary war. 

The Protestant Episcopal Theological School is near the University, but not 
of it, and consists of a noble group of stone buildings, including Lawrence Hall, 
the dormitory ; Reed Hall, a cloistered Gothic building containing the library 
and lecture-rooms ; and the exquisite arcliitectural gem of St. Jolm's Memo- 
rial Chapel. This school was founded in 1867, on an endowment from Mr. B. 
T. Reed of Boston, and has five professors. The number of students aver- 
ages about twenty. It is on Brattle Street, near the Longfellow House, and 
opposite the stately old Vassal House, which was erected about the year 1700, 
and was afterwards abandoned by the Royalist family of Vassal. 

The Riverside Press is three-fourths of a mile south of Harvard College, 
and is reached from Boston by the Brigliton, Western Avenue, Pearl Street, 
Putnam Avenue, or River Street horse-cars, from Bowdom Square. It was 
established here in 1851, by H. O. Houghton & Co., in an abandoned city 
building ; and the establishment, as now conducted by the same firm, covers 
nearly four acres, between Blackstone Street and the Charles River, the main 
edifice being a handsome brick building, four stories high, with a front of one 
hundred and fifty feet and a depth of one hundred and sixty feet. In the rear 
are the fire-proof warehouses for paper and plates, the electrotype-foundry, and 
a stone pier along the river front. The appointments of the Press are very 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



147 



[||i||||||||ji^ 




148 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



complete in all departments. Tliese include a bindery famous for the variety 
of its work, and a large lithographic department. Between five and six hun- 
dred persons are employed here, having their own library, savings depart- 
ment, and fire-company. The publications of Houghton, Mifflin & Co., 4 Park 
Street, Boston, are all manufactured here, and there is direct telephonic com- 
munication by private wire between the Press and the Boston office. 

Cambridge is noted not only for being the seat of the first college in Amer- 
ica, but for having been the first place in the country where a printing-press 
was set up. In 1639 a press was brought over from England, and put in oper- 
ation in the house of the president, who had the sole charge of it for many 
years. The first thmg printed upon it was the Freeman's Oath, followed by an 
Almanack for New England, and the Psalms. A fragment of the last-named 
work is preserved in the college library, and copies of it may still be seen in 
some antiquarian libraries. Cambridge has at the present day some of the 
largest and most completely furnished printmg-offices in America, conspicuous 
among which are the Riverside Press just described, and the University Press, 
offices which are perhaps the most celebrated in the country for the quality 
and accuracy of their work. Many of the hundreds of thousands of books 
published annually in Boston, and not a few of those issued by publishers in 
New York, including illustrated books requiring the finest workmanship and 
the greatest care, are printed and bound at these establishments. 

Not very far 
from the college 
grounds stands 
one of t h e few 
famous trees of 
the coiuitry, — 
the Washington 
Elm, — the only 
survivor of the 
ancient forest 
that originally 
covered all this 
part of C a m - 
bridge. It was 
under tliis tree 
that General 
Washington took 
command of the 
Continental a r - 
my on the morn- 
ing of the 3d of 
July, 1775. A 
The Washington Elm, Cambridge. neat fence Sur- 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



149 




rounds the famous tree, and an inscription commemorates the important event 
which was the most interesting in its centuries of existence. 

At a short distance from this okl ehn, on the road to Watertown, near Brattle 

Street, stands 
the house 
used by the 
patriot gen 
eral as hi > 
headquarters 
It was previ- 
ously the res- 
idence of Col- 
onel John 
Vassal, a 
Royalist o r 
Tory, but was 
used by Gen- 
e r a 1 Wash- 
ington on its 
abandonment 

Residence of the late H. W. Longfellow. bvthe owner* 

and here continued to be the headquarters of the American army for the 
greater part of the time, until the evacuation of Boston by the British in the 
spring of 1776. The house stands in a large and beautiful lot of groiuid, a lit- 
tle distance from the street, in the midst of tall trees and shrubbery, and 
though in a style of 
architecture differ- 
ent from that now 
generally em- 
ployed, it is still an 
elegant residence 
in external appear- 
ance, while the rich 
and costly finish of 
the interior has 
been preserved by 
its successive own- 
ers. The poet 
Henry Wadsworth 
Longfellow was 
long the possessoi 
and occupant of 
this house, and 
here he died in the 
spring of 1882. 




Entrance to Mount Auburn. 



150 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



Mount Auburn Cemetery is situated partly in Cambridge and partly in Wa- 
tertown. The laud was originally purchased and improved by the Massachu- 
setts Horticultural Society for an experimental garden. It subsequently passed 
into the hands of the trustees of Mount Auburn Cemetery, and was consecrated 
in the year 1831. It is now one of the most extensive cities of the dead used 
by the people of Boston, being in extent about one hundred and twenty-five 
acres. The surface is remarkably diversified, giving unusual opportunities to 
the landscape-gardener to improve the natural beauty of the scenery. There 
are several sheets of water, and high hills and deep vales in abundance. Trees 
in great variety have been transplanted into this enclosure, adding greatly to its 
_^^^ beauty. Upon the 

summit of the high- 
est hill. Mount Au- 
burn proper, a stone 
tower has been 
erected, from which 
a very fine view of 
all the surrounding 
coimtry can be ob- 
tained. Many ele- 
g a n t and costly 
monuments adorn 
the ground in every 
part. Some of these 
have been erected 
and the expense de- 
frayed by p u b 1 i c 
subscription, but 
Chapel, Mount Auburn. many moi'c by Sur- 

viving friends of the thousands who here sleep the last sleep. The granite 
entrance-gate was designed from an Egyptian model, and was erected at a 
cost of about $10,000. The very beautiful chapel was built in 1848, at 
an expense of $25,000. It is used for funeral services at the cemetery. 
There are around the walls, within, several excellent statues and memorials, 
one of which, a statue of James Otis, by Crawford, is particularly to be ad- 
mired. 

Brookline is one of the most beautiful of the suburban towns surrounding 
Boston, and furnishes a large proportion of the deliglitful drives in which the 
city residents indulge. It also possesses one of the finest specimens of church 
architecture in the state. The Harvard Church, of which we give a represen- 
tation, is a beautiful edifice both without and within, the interior being very 
highly ornamented, but in a tasteful manner, and furnished with a magnifi- 
cent organ behind the chancel, which adds much to the artistic effects with 
its decorated pipes, which are all exposed to view. This church is somewhat 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



151 



peculiar in being neither a " free " church, in the ordinary sense, nor one 
supported by taxes. A combination of both systems is m operation, and works 
well. 

It is by no means to be understood that in our glance at the suburbs we have 
exliausted the subject. There are a great many other points that should be 
visited. The magnificent beach at Revere is of itself a sight well worth the 
time spent in driving tliither. A short visit should be made to Lynn, the head- 
quarters of the shoe manufacture, and another to the extensive factories of 




Harvard Congregational Church, Brookline. 



152 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

Lowell and Lawrence. In the church at QiiincY are the tombs of the two Pres- 
idents, John and John Quincy Adams. Newton, Belmont, and Arlington are 
most beautiful towns, and in all tlie environs are charming drives through the 
pleasantest of districts. At Watertown is the great United States Arsenal ; 
the battle-groimds of Concord and Lexing-ton are within easy reach by rail- 
road ; and, in fact, no route can be taken out of the city that does not lead 
to some point where the stranger will tind much that is both pleasing and in- 
terestinff. 




BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 153 



VIII. A GROUP OF SUBURBAN RIDES. 

ilHERE are several horse-car routes leading through scenes of rich 
suburban beauty. Among the favorite lines are those leading to 
Grove Hall and the Dorchester District, a distance of about five 
miles, requiring an hour for the outward trip, which costs only five 
cents. Many of the cars pass down Tremont Street, by the Common. Those 
on one line pass through Tremont to Dover Street, in front of Odd Fellows' 
Hall, where they diverge sharply to the eastward, and run down to Wash- 
ington Street, following that street to the south, passing the Cathedral, and 
the Commonwealth Hotel, and the old cemetery in which Eliot is buried, 
and soon afterwards begin to ascend the long slopes of Boston Highlands, on 
Warren Street, through a wide district of pleasant suburban homes. The 
country grows more open, and the estates are larger and more park-like the 
farther the car goes, and after passing the handsome grounds of Grove Hall, 
the route lies over high ground with the hill-country of Milton often in sight. 
The terminus of the line is near the old Second Church, and by walkmg a little 
way beyond, to Welles Avenue, and ascendmg thereon to Ocean Street, a fine 
view of the harbor and sea, the southern suburbs and the Blue Hills, may be 
gained. The other line passes out of the city along Shawmut or Columbus 
Avenues, but in the Roxbury District the two pass over practically the same 
route. 

Another pleasant ride, the cost of which is very light, is that to Milton Lower 
Mills, a distance of about six miles. The cars on this route leave the head of 
Franklin Street, corner of Washington, every half hour, and run through Fed- 
eral Street to South Boston, where they enter upon the long Dorchester Ave- 
nue, and traverse a region occupied by workers in iron and wood, — the Nor- 
way Iron Works, and other large manufacturing establishments. Leaving 
this crowded selvage of South Boston, the more open streets of Washington 
Village are followed, with frequent views over the South Bay on the right, and 
Boston Harbor on the left. The villas of Savin Hill soon appear on the left, 
and the line closely approaches an arm of Dorchester Bay. Beyond the station 
at Field's Corner, the country becomes more open, and several handsome es- 
tates are passed. The track is so far to the side of the avenue that the trees 
hang over it, and there is a strip of grass between it and the roadway. At 
Ashmont the avenue crosses a bridge over the Shawmut Branch of the Old 
Colony Railroad. A mile farther, and the car enters the pretty village of 
Milton Lower Mills, passing two or three of its churches, and stopping on the 
brow of the hill, over the Neponset River. At the foot of the street is the 
large and handsome factory in which Baker's chocolate is made. But the 



154 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

crowning beauty of this excursion is found by crossing the Neponset River 
(which is here the boundary of Boston), and ascending the Quincy road for 
abovit half a mile, whence one can get a magnificent view of Boston Harbor 
and its many islands, the open sea, the blue Neponset winding through broad 
meadows, and the villages which stud the territories of Qumcy and the Dor- 
chester District. It is not far from three miles by this road over Milton Hill 
to Quincy, and a continuous line of stately old mansions and parks is passed, 
with immense velvety lawns, clumps of ancient trees, and abounding evidences 
of the most skillful landscape-gardening. 

A much shorter ride in this same direction, but one affording considerable 
gratification, is that to Meeting-House HiU, by the horse-cars which leave the 
corner of Bedford and Washington Streets. Meeting-House Hill is an inter- 
esting locality, with its venerable church, the Dorchester soldiers' monument, 
and a group of handsome public buildings. It is also reached by the route 
from the head of Franklin Street. A fine view of the harbor is enjoyed from 
this point ; and it is not much more than half a mile to Savin Hill, a pictur- 
esque eminence surrounded on three sides by the water, and covered with villas. 

The route to Forest Hills is about five miles long, and begins at the Tremont 
House, passing by Tremont and Dover streets to Washington Street, which it 
follows for four miles, passing some fine estates, the great Notre-Dame Acad- 
emy, the New-England Hospital for Women and Children, and other hand- 
some suburban institutions ; traversing the edge of the village of Jamaica 
Plain ; and terminating not far from the entrance to Forest Hills Cemetery (see 
page 139). Conveyances also run from the terminal station to the Mount 
Hope Cemetery, nearly a mile beyond, but somewhat irregularly. 

The Jamaica Plain route is about five miles long, and runs from the Tremont 
House for over two miles and a half along Tremont Street. At Tremont Sta- 
tion it diverges to the left on to Pynchon Street, where a half-mile of breweries 
and German houses is passed. At the junction of Centre Street the great 
City Stables are seen on the left. The track here turns on to Centre Street, 
and soon crosses the sunken line of the Providence Railroad, near a house 
wiiich dates from about 1720. The cars thereupon enter a delightful region of 
villas and open fields, passing the stately building of the Russell School, and ap- 
proaching the village of Jamaica Plain. Several handsome churches are seen, 
on either side of the street, several attractive country places, and the mansion 
once made famous as the home of S. G. Goodrich (Peter Parley). The beau- 
tiful Jamaica Pond (see page 138) is a short walk to the right, down Pond 
Street. A little farther on is the large and showy building formerly used as 
the town-hall ; and near it is the West Roxbury soldiers' monument, opposite 
the dignified old Unitarian Church. Stages connect with the cars at this point, 
and run out tlu-ough a mile or more of picturesque wooded country, to the 
celebrated AUandale Mineral Spring. 

The old Brookline horse-car route is four miles long, starting from the 
Tremont House, and following Tremont Street nearly all the way. There are 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 155 

a few fine old places on that part o£ the line which crosses the north slopes of 
Parker Hill, and there is also the lofty Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, 
which is so conspicuous in views of this region of the environs. The interior of 
this church is worth visiting, in order to see the massive pillars of polished 
granite which separate the nave from the aisles. By following the main street 
from the terminal station, one soon comes in sight of the Brookline Town 
Hall, a beautiful and attractive stone building of modern erection. It is about 
a mile from the end of this horse-car line to Beacon Street, by way of Harvard 
Street, and the route leads past numerous delightful estates and suburban 
houses. The new line from Boston, passing by the Tremont House, and out 
by the way of the Back Bay District and Huntington Avenue, is the most direct 
to Brookline. On reaching Beacon Street, one may walk out to the left to 
the Chestnut Hill Reservoir (page 137) less than two miles ; or return to the 
city by way of the Mill Dam, about three miles, by going along Beacon Street 
to the right ; or, better still, if the day is clear, turn to the left on Beacon 
Street, and follow it a short distance to the divergence of Summit Hill Av- 
enue on the right, and ascend thereon to the crest of Corey's Hill, whence is 
obtained one of the grandest views in eastern Massachusetts, including not 
only Boston and her suburbs, and the sea, but also the rural towns to the west 
for many leagues, even to the blue peak of far-away Wachusett. 

The Highland line, with its handsome plaided cars, traverses Columbus Ave- 
nue (cars with silvered platform-backs), and gives a comprehensive view of 
that part of the city, with its handsome residence-blocks and modern churches. 
This line also controls the rails along Shawmut Avenue, and runs its cars out 
to Grove Hall, as already stated, and other parts of the Roxbury district. 

The South Boston line to City Point gives a view of the peninsula wards, 
and a pleasant prospect over the harbor. The cars run by different routes 
through the city proper ; some making " the circuit " through Tremont Street, 
across the head of ScoUay Square, Cornhill and Wasliiugton Street, and passing 
tlirough Summer, and other busy streets, to the bridge over Fort Point Channel, 
whence they soon reach Broadway, the mam street of South Boston. Others 
start from Brattle Square ; and others from Park Square opposite the Provi- 
dence Station, passing over the new Broadway extension bridge. Passing the 
Catholic Church of SS. Peter and Paul, and traversing a long district of retail 
shops, the line along Broadway soon begins the ascent of Mount Washington, 
the ancient Dorchester Heights, near whose top is a group of churches, St. 
Matthews' Episcopal, the Methodist Centenary, the Fourth Baptist, the Phil- 
lips Congregational, the Hawes Congregational, and the Church of Our Father 
(Unitarian). Where the track bends to the left, the visitor may get off and 
ascend, by the Carney Hospital (Catholic), to the park on the crest of the 
heights, where the site of Washington's batteries is marked by a granite tablet. 
The view from this point is very beautiful, and includes the harbor, with its 
islands and forts, the open sea, Dorchester Bay and the Blue Hills, and the 
metropolis of New England, with all its broad and populous suburbs. The 



156 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 

Perkins Institution for the Blind is not far from this park, and fronts on Broad- 
way (see page 129). A little way farther out on Broadway is Independence 
Square, a handsome park covering a quarter of a million feet, nearly sur- 
rounded by neat residences, and on the lower side approached by the grounds 
of the Boston Lunatic Asylum and other public buildings. Three blocks be- 
yond this point is the end of the peninsula, with seaward-facing beaches and 
public grounds, and a great number of places where boats and skippers may be 
hired. Fort Independence is quite near this shore, and the other harbor isl- 
ands are seen beyond, on either side, with the wide expanse of Dorchester Bay 
on the south, overlooked by the Blue Hills of Milton. Off City Point are the 
mooring-grouuds of most of the yachts belonging to the Boston, Dorchester, 
and South-Boston Yacht Clubs. 

Revere Beach is the nearest to Boston of all the sea-beaches, and may be 
reached by the narrow-gauge railroad from Atlantic Avenue, the Eastern 
Railroad, or by the horse-cars through ScoUay Square (fare, ten cents). The 
latter route leads through Charlestown, giving views of the Soldiers' Mon- 
ument and Bunker-Hill Monument, and then crosses the Mystic River on a 
long bridge, and traverses the city of Chelsea, passing the grounds of the Ma- 
rine Hospital and crossing the public square near the business centre. Soon 
the Chelsea Highlands (the ancient Powder-Horn Hill) are seen rising on the 
left, crowned by a large building, formerly a summer hotel, and now the new 
Soldiers' Home, wliich commands an extensive view over Boston and the har- 
bor, with the northern en\'irons. Crossing Mill River, the line enters the town 
of Revere, and after a short run through an open country and a part of the 
hamlet turns to the eastward, and soon reaches the beach, near several of the 
hotels. Beyond the point where the horse-cars diverge from Broadway the 
Lymi and Boston horse-cars continue along the old Salem Turnpike to the city 
of Lynn, and out as far as Swampscott, the Long Branch of Boston. 

Somerville is traversed by three steam railroads, and also by horse-car lines, 
one of which departs from ScoUay Square, crosses Charlestown, and, near 
Charlestown Neck, one branch diverges to Union Square, wliile another con- 
tinues over the Neck to Winter Hill. Another line is from Bowdoin Square 
tlirough East Cambridge, to West Somerville, passing also through Union 
Square ; and still others by the new Charles River lines from Park Square, 
through Cambridgeport, Inman Square to Union Square, and Beacon Street, 
Somerville, to Porter's Station. The Winter Hill line runs through a pleasant 
district, after leaving Charlestown, passing the site of the Ursuline Convent on 
Mount Benedict, the prettily planned Sefton Park, and a great number of neat 
wooden residences. Away to the left the Somerville City Hall, High School, 
and Unitarian Church are seen ; and on the right is the populous Mystic Val- 
ley. After a long and slow ascent the car reaches the top of Winter Hill, the 
site of one of the American batteries during the siege of Boston, and command- 
ing a fine view over the northern suburbs. A walk of two and a half miles 
straight out on Broadway leads to the village of Arlington (see below), whence 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 157 

horse-cars may be taken over another route to Boston, This walk leads along 
the old stage-road to Keene, New Hampshire, and passes to within two miles of 
Medford, which is long seen on the right, and much nearer to and in plain sight 
of the high-placed buildings of Tufts College. It also passes close to the Old 
Wayside Mill, the most picturesque bit of antiquity in all the Boston enwons. 
This venerable tower was built about one hundred and seventy years ago, as a 
windmill for grinding corn, and in 1747 became a provincial powder-house, 
from which, in 1774, Gage's British troops removed 250 half-barrels of powder. 
There are several interesting traditions coimected with this antique stone struc- 
ture, one of which is recorded in Drake's " Historic Fields and Mansions of 
Middlesex." 

The large and handsome village of Arlington, with its prettily grouped 
spires, its blue lakelet, and its memorial tablets recording the scenes in the Con- 
cord-Lexington march wliich occurred within her borders, is reached by hourly 
horse-cars from Bowdoin Square, Boston (fare 10 cents cash ; no tickets sold). 
The line crosses the West-Boston Bridge, and passes through Cambridgeport 
and over Dana Hill to Harvard Square, where it goes round two sides of the 
College-grounds, and gives a fine view of many of the most important buildings. 
Then the Common is skirted, and the Soldiers' Monument, Washington Elm, 
and Shepard Church are seen on the left. Beyond Harvard Square the route 
is over North Avenue, a long and wide boulevard, lined with trees and hand- 
some villas, and affording a succession of pleasant prospects. Upon reaching 
Arlington (anciently called Menotmny), an hour can be passed very satisfacto- 
rily in rambling about the clean, quiet, and umbrageous streets of that ancient 
village. About a mile and a half beyond is the crest of Arlington Heights, 
reached by good roads and crowned by villas ; and therefrom is obtained a 
grand view, including all Boston and her suburbs and the attendant sea, on 
the east, and on the west a vast expanse of green and rolling farm and forest 
country, studded with white villages and blue ponds, and bounded by the dis- 
tant but clearly discernible peaks of Watatic, Wachusett, and Monadnock. 

The routes to the Brighton District and Watertown are among the most in- 
teresting out of Boston ; and the latter part of the Mount Auburn route, from 
Harvard Square to the Cemetery, is not surpassed in artificial beauty and his- 
toric charm. Wrote Sir Charles Dilke : " It is not only in the Harvard pre- 
cincts that the oldness of New England is to be remarked. Although her peo- 
ple are everywhere in the vanguard of all progress^ their country has a look 
of gable-ends and steeple-hats, while their laws seem fresh from the hands of 
Alfred. In all England there is no city which has suburbs so gray and ven- 
erable as the elm-shaded towns around Boston, Dorchester, Chelsea, Nahant, 
and Salem." 



158 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



IX. PRACTICAL NOTES. 



HOTELS. 




fiHE Vendome on Commonwealth Avenue and Dartmouth Street. 
One of the most elegant hotels in New England. Charges 84.50 a 
day. (See page 65.) 

The Brunswick, corner of Clarendon and Boylston Streets, charges 
a day. (See page 65.) 

The Parker House on School Street, Young's Hotel on Court Avenue, Court 
Square, and Court Street, and the Adams House, 555 Washington Street ; large, 
first-class houses, conducted on the European plan, centrally located and much 
patronized. Single rooms from $1 to $3 a day ; suites from $5 to $15. (See 
pages 83 and 89.) 

The Tremont House, corner of Tremont and Beacon Streets, and the Revere 
House on Bowdoin Square (see pages 39 and 20) ; the former charges $4 a 
day ; and the latter, from .f 3.50 to $4.50 a day. 

The American House, on Hanover Street (page 19), has 400 rooms, and its 
rates are $3 a day. 

The United States Hotel, conveniently situated on Beach Street, one block 
from the new Albany Station ; charges from $3 a day upwards. 

The Quiucy House, on Brattle Square, one of the older liouses, having a rep- 
utation for comfortable rooms and an excellent table ; charges from $2.50 a 
day upwards. 

The Commonwealth Hotel (page 114) at the corner of Wasliington and 
Worcester Streets. Rates $3 to $4 a day. 

The Clarendon Hotel at 521 Tremont Street, pleasantly situated in a quiet 
part of the city, charges from $2.50 a day upwards. 

The Crawford House at the corner of Court and Brattle Streets, and the 
International Hotel nearly opposite the Globe Theatre, are kept on the Euro- 
pean plan, and their charges are moderate. 

There are several other minor hotels in the city, most of them cleanly and 
well situated, where the prices are lower than those above quoted. The pri- 
vate boarding-houses of the best class are for the most part on and near Bea- 
con Hill, and at the South End ; and several of those on the Hill take boarders 
for terms of a few weeks. 

Among the most notable restaurants are Parker's, with a spacious dining- 
room for ladies, in addition to the public and private dining-rooms and cafe for 
gentleme« ; the Adams House, with a large general dining-room ; Young's, 
with several large dining-rooms and cafe, with a sumptuous dining-room for 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 159 

ladies from the Court Street entrance ; Ober's, on Winter Place (off Winter 
Street), where the Parisian cuisine is used ; Perkins's, on Tremont Street, be- 
tween Mason and Boylston Streets. Confectionery and ices (besides more sub- 
stantial food) may be obtained at Weber's and Dooling's, on Temple Place ; 
Fera's, 1G2 Tremont Street ; and the Copeland restaurants, 128 Tremont 
Street and 467 Washington Street. These places are much visited by ladies. 
There are also scores of restaurants in the business quarter, many of whicli are 
first-class in every respect ; a group of French restaurants on Van Rensselaer 
Place, off Tremont Street, just above Boylston ; Vercelli's, an Italian restau- 
rant, at 88 Boylston Street, and numerous German and French restaurants 
down town. 



, THEATRES, HORSE-CARS, AND HARBOR STEAMERS. 

The Theatres. The Boston Theatre is on Washington Street, between 
West and Boylston Streets ; the Bijou two doors south ; the Globe on the same 
square, on the other side of the street ; the Park, nearly opposite the Globe ; 
the Windsor on Washington just above Dover, east side ; the Museum on 
Tremont Street, between School and Court Streets (see also pages 84, 88-90, 
120) ; the Howard Athenaeum on Howard Street, near Scollay Square ; the 
Hollis, the newest theatre, on Hollis Street. For Music Hall and the Tremont 
Temple see pages 85 and 87 ; Horticultural Hall, page 86. 

Horse-cars leave the Tremont House or Temple Place, or pass alone Tre- 
mont Street every few minutes for the northern railway stations, Chelsea Ferry, 
East Boston, Beacon Street, Northampton Street by way of Boylston and Dart- 
mouth Streets, Lenox Street, .Jamaica Plam, Brookline, Forest Hills, Grove 
Hall, Mount Pleasant, Dorchester, Egleston Square, and other points in the 
Roxbury and Dorchester suburbs ; and for Brighton by way of Charles Street, 
every half hour. The Milton Lower Mills and some of the South Boston cars 
leave from the Old South Church. The Winter Hill, Maiden, Everett, Re- 
vere Beach, City Point, Charlestown, Lynn, Swampscott, and other lines to the 
northern suburbs, leave Scollay Square and the station in Cornhill. The Cam- 
bridge, Brighton, Harvard Square, Arlington, Watertown, and Mount Au- 
burn lines, with others to the western suburbs, run from Bowdoin Square, or 
Park Square, several lines passing tlirough Scollay Square. There are cross- 
town lines connecting and including these termini, and a transfer Ime from 
Northampton Street by way of Chester Park to the head of Commonwealth 
Avenue. Also a line from Park Square to City Point, South Boston, by way 
of Columbus Avenue, Berkeley, and Dover Streets. 

The Harbor Steamboats leave their wharves on Atlantic Avenue for their 
various destinations. The lines to Hull, Strawberry Hill, Hingham, Downer 
Landing, and Nantasket Beach, run from Rowe's Wharf, which is reached by 
horse-cars marked " Atlantic Avenue." Steamers to Nahant and other points 
leave from wharves near by. 



160 BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 



COACHES AND CABS. 

The Citizens' Line runs from Northampton Street, to the foot of Salem 
Street, Charlestown, every tliree minutes, from 5.45 A. M. to 9.30 p. m. Return 
every tliree minutes, from 6.15 A. m. to 10.30 p. m. 

During the summer season " barges " run from Bovv^doin Square to the har- 
bor steamboat wharves. 

Herdics, small, two-seated cabs, "Standards," and other cabs of similar 
pattern, carry passengers from point to point within the old city limits for 
twenty-five cents each. There are several stands in the city where they are to 
be found, notably ScoUay, Pemberton, Bowdoin, and Post-Office Squares, Boyl- 
ston Street corner of "Washington, near the hotels, and at the railway stations ; 
and they can at any time, night or day, be called by telephone. 

HACK FARES. 

The regulations apply to adult passengers. From one place to another in 
the old portion of the city, within East Boston, within South Boston, and with- 
in Roxbury, the fare is 50 cents for each passenger, and as much more for every 
additional passenger. ' 

For one adult, from any point south of Dover Street and west of Berkeley, to 
any place north of State, Court, and Cambridge streets (or return), the fare is 
^1 for each passenger, and for two or more passengers 50 cents each. From any 
place north of Essex and Boylston streets, to any place in Roxbury north of 
Dudley Street, or Roxbury Street between Eliot Square and Pynchon Street, 
and east of Tremont Street from the Providence Railroad crossing and the 
Brookline line, the fare is $2 ; for two passengers, $1 each ; three passengers 
or more, 75 cents each. From any place south of Essex and Boylston streets 
and north of Dover and Berkeley streets, to any place in Roxbury (or return) 
the fare is $1.50 ; two passengers, 87 cents each ; three, 75 cents each ; four 
624 cents each. From any place south of Dover and Berkeley streets to any 
place in Roxbury (or return) the fare is !jl ; for two passengers, 75 cents each ; 
for three or more, 50 cents each. From any point north of Essex and Boyls- 
ston streets, to any place in Roxbury south of Dudley Street and Roxbury 
Street between Eliot Square and Pynchon Street, and west of Tremont Street 
from the Providence crossing and Brookline line, 62.50 ; two passengers, $1.25 
each ; three, .$1 each ; four, 75 cents each. 

To South or East Boston from the old portion of the city, $1 ; two or more 
passengers, 75 cents each. From point to point within Dorchester, $1 ; 50 
cents for each additional passenger. From the city proper to Dorchester, for 
one person, $2.50, $3, and $4 according to the distance, the limits being care- 
fully defined in the regulations ; two persons, $1.50, .$1.75, and $2.25 each ; 
three, $1, $1.25, and $1.62 each ; and four, 75 cents, $1, and $1.25 each. 



BOSTON ILLUSTRATED. 161 



PRINCIPAL TELEGRAPH OFFICES. 



Western Union, open all night, 109 State Street. Branch offices at the prin- 
cipal hotels and railroad stations. Mutual Union practically united with the 
Western Union, open all night, Equitable Building, Milk Street. United Lines, 
open all night, 177 Devonshire Street. Baltimore and Ohio, Milk corner of 
Hawley Street. Direct Cable, 109 State Street. American Cable, 30 Equi- 
table Building, Milk Street. Branch offices of the leading telegraph companies, 
in the principal hotels, exchanges, and other public places. 

Boys for messenger service of all kinds, day and night, are furnished by the 
Mutual District Messenger Company, whose main office is in the basement of 
the Old State House, State and Washington Streets. There messengers can be 
called by telephone or by the special electric call-boxes of the company, which 
are generally to be found in the leading hotels, and other public places, as well 
as in business offices. The boys are uniformed, and are paid according to a fixed 
tariff of rates. Public telephone stations are in the principal hotels. 



INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Advertiser Building, 103. 
American House, 19. 
Andrew, Statue of Gov., 24. 
Arlington Street Churcli, 50. 
Army and Navy Monument, 29. 
AtlienoBum, Boston, 41. 

Beacon Street Mall, 31. 

Boston, from the Harbor, 10. 

Boston, from tlie South End, 90. 

Boston and Albany Railroad Station, 119. 

Boston Liglit, 125. 

Boston Museum, 85. 

Boston Society of Natural History, and Institute 

of Technology, 58. 
Boston Tlieatre, 88. 

Brattle Square Church, Old, 21 ; New, 66. 
Brewer Building, 99. 
Brewer Fountain, 28. 
Bug Light, 125. 
Bimker Hill Monument, 140. 

Cathedral Building, 97. 

Cathedral of the Holy Cross, 113. 

Chauncy Hall Sc-hool, 50. 

Chester S(|u;ire, View in, 108. 

Cliestnut Kill, Entrance, 135. 

Chestnut Hill, G.ate House, 137. 

Chestnut Hill, Large Reservoir, 130. 

Chestnut Hill, Small Reservoir, 137. 

Christ Church, 14. 

City Hall, 73. 

City Hospital, 114. 

Commonwealth .\ venue, 48. 

Commonwealth Avenue, with Brattle Square 

Church and Hotel Vendome, CO. 
Consumptives' Home, Grove Hall, 135. 
Copp's Hill Buryiiig-Ground, 15. 
Custom House, 78. 

Dorchester Heights, 7. 

Eastern and Fitchburg Railroad Stations, 17. 
Elm, The Old, 27. 
Equitable Building, 9S. 
Everett, Statue of Edward, 34. 

Faneuil Hall, 13. 

First Church in Boston, 4. 

First Church, Berkeley Street, 49. 

First Church in Roxbury, 132. 

Forest Hills, Entrance to, 140. 

Fort Independence, 123. 

Fort Warren, 124. 

Fort Winthrop, 123. 

Franklin Street before the Are, 72. 



Franklin's Birthplace, 4. 
Frog Pond, 25. 

Girls' High and Latin Schools, 111. 
Globe Theatre, 90. 
Granary Burying-Ground, 37. 
Grand Junction Wharves, 131. 
Great Fire, Scene after, 71. 

Hancock House, The Old, 42. 

Harvard Congregational Church, Brookline, 151. 

Harvard Medical School, 01. 

Harvard University, Gore Hall, 143. 

Harvard, Tlie Memorial Hall, 145. 

Harvard, The Quadrangle, 144. 

Haymarket Square, 18. 

Hemmenway BuiUling, 87. 

Horticultural Hall .and Studio Building, 80. 

Hotel Boylstou, 92. 

Hotel Brunswick, 65. 

Hull, 122. 

Immaculate Conception, Church of the, 115. 

Jamaica Pond, North View, 138. 
Jamaica Pond, Soutli View, 139. 
Journal Building, 102. 

Latin and English High Schools, 160. 
Long Island Liglit, 120. 
Longfellow, Home of, 149. 
Lowell Railroad Station, 18. 

Macullar, Parker & Co.'s Building, 94. 

Map of Boston and Suburbs, 11. 

Map of Boston in 1722, 2. 

Masonic Temple, 93. 

Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association 
Building, 03. 

Massachusetts General Hospital, 10. 

Massachusetts Hospital Life Insurance Build- 
ing, 75. 

Meeting-House Hill, 133. 

Mount Auburn Chapel, 150. 

Mount Auburn, Entrance to, 149. 

Museum of Fine Arts, 50. 

Mutuiil Life Insurance Building, 95. 

Navy Yard, 141. 

New England Conservatory of Music, 112. 

New England Manufacturers' and Mechanics' In- 

.stitute, 04. 
New England Mutual Life Insurance Co. s 

Building, 95. 
New Old Soutli Churcli, 53. 
Nix's Mate, 120. 



164 



INDEX TO TEXT. 



Odd Fellows' Hall, 116. 
Old Colony Station, 120. 
Old Corner Bookstore, 83. 
Old House in Dock Square, 6. 
Old South Church, 79. 
Old State House, 5. 

Park Street, 38. 

Park Street Church, 38. 

Parker House, 83. 

Perkins Institution for the Blind, 130. 

Point Shirley, I'-T. 

Post, Building of the Boston, KU. 

Post-Office, 70. 

Providence Railroad Station, -IG. 

Public Garden, from Arlington Street, 32. 

Public Uarden, tlie Bridge, 33. 

Public Garden, the Pond, 33. 

Public Library, 44. 

Quincy, Josiah, Statue of, 74. 

Revere House, 20. 
Riverside Press, 147. 

Savin Hill, 134. 



Somerset Club House, 43. 

Somerset Street, 43. 

Stand-Pipe, Cochituate Water-Works, 132. 

State House, 30 

State Street Block, 100. 

State Street, Head of, 70. 

Studio Building, 8G. 

Sumner, Cliarles, Statue of, 36. 

Transcript Building before the fire, 100. 

Tremont House, 39. 

Tremont Street Methodist Church, 117. 

Trimountaine, 1. 

Trinity Church, 52. 

Union Boat-Club, 67. 

Union Congregational Church, 118. 

Unitarian Building, 40. 

Vendome, Hotel, G6. 

Washington Elm, 148. 
Washington Statue, 35. 

Young Men's Christian Association Building, 59. 
Young Men's Christian Union Building, 91 . 



INDEX TO TEXT. 



'American Academy of Arts and Sciences, 41. 
American Board of Commissioners for Foreign 

Missions, 40. 
Ancient Chroniclers, 3, 26. 
Archbishop's Mansion, 114. 
Area of Boston, 10. 
Arlington, 157. 
Arlington Heights, 157. 
Art Museum, 55. 
Athen:vum, Boston, 41. 
Atlantic Avenue, 106. 

Back Bay, 47. 

Barricado, 78. 

Battle FUags, 24. 

Battle of Gettysburg, Cyclorama of, 117. 

Beacon Hill, 1, 23. 

Beacon Street, 42. 

Bedford Street, 09. 

Beebe-Weld Building, 97. 

Blackstone, William, 1, 25. 

Boston College, 115. 

Boston Conservatory of Music, 93. 

Boston Liglit, 124. 

Boston made a City, 8. 

Boston Massacre, 5. 

Bo.ston Memorial Association, 34. 

Boston Pier, 77. 

Bo-ston Safe Deposit Co., 96. 

Boston Society of Natural History, 57. 

Boston University, 42. 

Boylston Market, 91. 

Brewer Building, 99. 

Brewer Fountain, 28. 



Brighton, 129. 

British Occupation, 6, 15, 21, 79. 

BrookUne, 129, 150, 157. 

Brooks, Phillips, 51. 

Bug Light, 125. 

Bunker Hill, 141. 

Cambridge, 142, 157. 
Castle Island, 121. 
Cathedral Building, 96. 
Cemeteries. 

Central Burymg-Ground, 28. 

Copp's Hill Burying-Ground, 15. 

Forest Hills Cemetery, 139, 154. 

Granary Burying-Ground, 30. 

King's Chapel Burying-Ground, 81. 

Mount Auburn Cemetery, 150. 

North Burying-Ground, 15. 
Central District, 09. 
Clianning, W. E., 50. 
Charles River Basin, 67. 
Charle-stovvn, 141. 
Chauucy Hall School, 59. 
Chelsea Highlands, 15G. 
Chestnut Hill Reservoir, 135. 
Children's Hospital, 04. 
Church Street District, 47. 
Churches. 

Advent, Church of the, 68. 

Arlington Street Church, 49. 

Brattle Square Church, 21 , 54. 

Cathedral of the Holy Cross, 113, 
Cathedral, Old, 96, 98. 
Central Cluirch, 50. 



INDEX TO TEXT. 



165 



Christ Church, 14. 

Disciples, Cliurcli of the, 118. 

Emmanuel Church, 53. 

Federal Street Church, 99. 

First Churcli, 4, 49. 

First Church in Roxbury, 132. 

First Presbyterian Church, 118. 

Harvard Church, 150. 

Hedding Church, 118. 

HoUis Street Cliurch, 64. 

Holy Trinity, Church of the, 116. 

Huguenot Church, 82. 

Immaculate Conception, Church of the, 115. 

King's Chapel, 80. 

Manifesto Church, 21. 

New Old South Church, 53. 

Old Churches, 4. 

Old South Church, 78. 

Our Lady of Perpetual Help, Church of, 155. 

Park Street Church, 37. 

People's Church, 118. 

St. John the Evangelist, Church of, 68. 

St. Mary's Church, 22. 

St. Paul's Church, 75. 

Second Church, 54. 

Second Universalist Church, 118. 

Shawmut Church, 117. 

South Congregational Church, 117. 

Spiritual Temple, 04. 

Tabernacle, 117. 

Tremont Street Methodist Church, 117. 

Tremont Temple, 85. 

Trinity Church, 51. 

Union Church, 118. 

'W^arren Avenue Church, 118. 
City Hall, 72. 
City Hospital, 115. 
City Point, 155. 
Clubs. 

Algonquin Club, 68. 

Boston Art Club, 57. 

Central Club, 45. 

Paint and Clay Club, 105. 

Puritan Club, G8. 

St. Botolph Club, 47. 

Somerset Club, 43. 

Suffolk Club, 40. 

Tavern Club, 45 

Temple Club, 105. 

Union Boat-Club, 68. 

Union Club, 39. 

"Whist Club, 45. 
Coaches, 160. 
Columbus Avenue, 118. 
Commercial Development, 3, 8. 
Commercial Street, 12. 
Common, Boundaries of, 26. 
Common, History of, 25. 
Commonwealth Avenue, 48, 67. 
Congregational Headquarters, 40. 
Consumptives' Home, 134. 
Copp's Hill, 15. 
Corey's Hill, 155. 
Cornliill, 12. 
Court House, 74. 
Court Street, 22. 
Cradle of Liberty, 12. 
Custom House, 77. 

Dedham, 116. 
Dorchester, 129, 133, 153. 
Dorchester Heights, 7, 155. 
Doric Hall, 24. 



East Boston, 130. 

Egg Rock, 128. 

Elevator, B. & A. R. R., 131. 

Eliot's Grave, 112. 
Elm, The Old, 27 
Emancipation Group, 45. 
Embargo, The, 8. 
Emerson, Ralph Waldo, 54, 
Episcopalians, 80. 
Equitable Building, 97 
Ether Monument, 34. 

Feder.al Street, 49. 

Fire, The Great, 69, 75. 

Fir.st Block of Buildings, 98. 

Foreigners, 105. 

Fort Hill, 69. 

Fort Independence, 121. 

Fort Warren, 123. 

Fort Winthrop, 122. 

Fortifications, Old, 112. 

Franklin, Benjamin, Birthplace of, 4, 101. 

Franklin Street, 98. 

Frog Pond, 27. 

Gannett, Ezra S., 50. 
George's Island, 122. 
Governor's Island, 122. 
Grove Hall, 134, 153. 

Hack Fares, 160. 
Halls. 

Bumstead Hall, 88. 

Chickering Hall, 93. 

Faueuil Hall, 12. 

Horticultural Hall, 86. 

Huntington HaU, 58. 

Meionaon Hall, 86. 

Music Hall, 87. 

Norcross Hall, 91. 

Odd Fellows' Hall, 116. 

Paine Memorial Hall, 116. 

Parker Memorial Hall, 116. 

Sleeper Hall, 42. 

Tremont Temple, 85. 

Union Hall, 91. 
Hancock House, Old, 42. 
Hancock's Tomb, 37 . 
Handel and Haydn Society, 88. 
Hanover Street, 12. 
Harbor of Boston, 121, 139. 
Harbor Steamers, 159. 
Harvard College, 4, 142. 

College Library, 145. 

Memorial Hall, 145. 

Memorial Hall, Portraits in, 146. 

Medical School, 62. 

Sanders Theatre, 146. 
Hemmenway Building, 85. 
Herdics, 160. 

History op Boston in Early Times, 1. 
Horse-Car Routes, 153, 159. 
Hovey, C. F., & Co., 94. 
Hotel Rates, 158. 
Hotels, 158. 

Adams House, 89. 

American House, 19. 

Connnonwealth Hotel, 112. 

Crawford House, 158. 

Creighton House, 158. 

Hotel Agassiz, 67. 

Hotel Berkeley, 67. 

Hotel Boylston, 92. 

Hotel Brun.swick, 65. 



166 

Hotel Cluny, 67. 

Hotel Huntington, 67. 

Hotel Kempton, 07. 

Hotel Kensington, 67. 

Hotel Oxford, 67. 

Hotel Pelham, 45. 

Hotel Tmlor, G7. 

Hotel Vendome, 05. 

International Hotel, 158. 

Korfolk House, 130. 

Parker House, 83. 

Quincy House, 20. 

Revere House, 20. 

Taft's Hotel, 127. 

Tremont House, 39. 

United States Hotel, 120. 

Young's Hotel, 83. 
Houghton, Mifflin & Co., 38, 82, 148. 
Hull, 121. 
Huntington Avenue, 62. 

Independent Clironicle, 104. 

Jamaica Plain, 154. 
Jamaica Pond, 138, 154, 
Jesuits, The, 115. 
Jolmson, Isaac, 1, 81, 82. 
Jordan, Marsh & Co., 93. 

King, Thomas Starr, 64. 
Kissing as a Crime, 3. 

Ladies' Shopping Quarter, 93. 
Lee Building, 100. 
Liberty Tree, 91. 
Lind, Jemiy, IS. 
Long Island, 125. 
Long Path, 32. 
Longfellow's House, 149. 
Lowell Scliool of Design, 58. 

Macullar, Parker & Co., 94. 

Made Land, 9, 32, 47. 

Malcolm, Captain, 15. 

MaUs, 31. 

Maolis Gardens, 128. 

Mason & Hamlin, 93. 

Ma.sonic Temple, 92. 

Masonic Temple, Old, 74. 

Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association, 

20, 62. 
Massachusetts General Hospital, 16. 
Massachusetts Historical Society, 82. 
Massachusetts Hospital Life Insurance Co., 75. 
Mathers, The Three, 15, 54. 
Meeting-House Hill, 134, 153. 
Military Record, 7. 
Mill, Old Wayside, 156. 
Milton Hill, 153. 
Milton Lower Mills, 153. 
Miuot's Ledge Liglit, 128. 
Municipal Annexations, 9. 
Murray, Rev. W. H. H., 38. 
Museum of Fine Arts, 55. 
Mutual Life Insurance Building, 95. 

Nahant, 127. 

Nantasket Beach, 121. 

Natural History Museum, 57. 

Navy Yard, 142. 

Neck, Tlie, 108, 112. 

New Boston and the Subotbs, 129. 

New England Courant, 104. 



INDEX TO TEXT. 



New England Historic, Genealogical Society, 41. 
New England Manufacturers' and Mechanics' In- 
stitute, 04. 
New England Mutual Life Insurance Building, 96. 
New Washington Street, 22. 
Newspaper Row, 100. 
Newspapers. 

Advertiser, Daily, 103. 

Beacon, 105. 

Budget, Simday, 105. 

Commercial Bulletin, 105. 

Courier, Simday, 105. 

Gazette, Saturday Evening, 104. 

Globe, Daily, 104. 

Herald, Daily, 102. 

Journal, Daily, 102. 

Pilot, 105. 

Post, Morning, 101. 

Record, Evening, 104. 

Transcript, Evenuig, 100. 

Traveller, Evening, 104. 
Nix's Mate, 120. 
Noddle's Island, 129. 
North End, 12. 

Ocean Street, 153. 
Old Corner Bookstore, 82. 
Old House in Dock Square, 6. 
Old- Time Visitors, 3. 

Paddock Elms, 37. 

Paddy, Wm., Epitaph on, 81. 

Paine, Robert Treat, 99. 

PaUrey, Jolm G., 21. 

Parker, Harvey D., 83. 

Parker HiU, 155. 

Parkman, Francis, 47. 

Pearl Street, GO. 

Perkins Institution for the Blind, 129. 

Phillips, Wendell, 91. 

Pierpont, John, 64. 

Point Shirley, 127. 

Population, Elements of, 105. 

Population in 1674, 2. 

Population in Later Periods, 8, 105. 

Post Office, 75. 

Powder Horn Hill, lijO. 

Practical Notes, 158. 

Prescott's House, 43. 

Printing-Press, Tlie First, 148. 

Protestant Episcopal Theological School, 146. 

Province House, 79. 

Public Garden, 32. 

Public Library, 43. 

Public Library Branches, 45. 

Pulhng Point, 125. 

Quincy, Josiah, 74. 
Quincy Market, 14. 
Quincy Road, 154. 

Railroads. 

Boston and Albany, 119. 

Boston and Lowell, 19. 

Boston and Maine. 19. 

Boston and Providence, 46. 

Eastern, 17. 

Fitchburg, 18. 

Grand Junction, 130. 

Old Colony, 120. 

Union Freight, 106. 
Restaurants, 158. 
Revere Beach, 127, 156. 



INDEX TO TEXT 



167 



Rink, Boston RoUer-Skating, 57. 
Riverside Press, 147. 
Roman Catholics, 113. 
Roxbury, 129, 132. 

Savin Hill, 13-1. 
Schools. 

Boston Conservatory of Music, 93. 

Chaiincy Hall School, 59. 

Girls' High and Latin Schools, 111. 

Girls' Normal School, 112. 

Latin and High Schools, New, 109. 

Latin School, Old, 82. 

Lowell Scliool of Design, 58. 

New England Conservatory of Music, 112. 

Normal Art School, 114. 

Prince School, GO. 
Security Safe Deposit Co., 97. 
Sewerage System, New, 107. 
Shawmut Avenue, 116. 
Sheafe, Jacob, 82. 
Sliirley, Gov., 99. 
Siege of Boston, 7. 
Soldiers' Moiuiment, 28. 
Soldiers' Monument, Cambridge, 146. 
Somerville, 15G. 
South Boston, 129, 153, 155. 
South End, 108. 
Spectacle Island, 121. 
Squares and Parks. 

Adams Square, 22. 

Blackstone Square, 109. 

Chester Square, 109. 

Conunon, The, 25. 

Copley Square, 55. 

Dock Square, 12. 

Eliot Square, 132. 

Fort Hill Square, 69. 

Haymarket Square, 19. 

Pembertou Square, 23. 

Post-Office Square, 76. 

Public Garden, 32. 

ScoUay Square, 22. 

Union Park, 109, 117. 

"Winthrop Square, 96, 99. 

Worcester Square, 109. 
Stand-Pipe, 132. 
State House, 23. 
State House, Old, 5. 
State Street. 09. 
State Street Block, 105. 
Statues. 

Apollo, 87. 

Samuel Adams, 22. 

Gov. Andrew, 24. 

Beethoven, 87. 

Emancipation Group, 45. 

Edward Everett, 24, 34. 

Benjamin Franklin, 74. 

Wm. Lloyd Garrison, 48. 

Gen. Glover, 48. 

Alexander Hamilton, 48. 

John Harvard, 140. 

Horace Mann, 24. 

William Prescott, 141. 



Josiah Quincy, 74. 

Washington (Chantrey's), 24. 

Washington (Equestrian), 35. 

Daniel Webster, 24. 

Gov. Winthrop, 22, 80. 
Stuart, Gilbert, 91. 
Studio Building, 87. 
Sub-Treasury, 75. 
Suburban Rides, A Group of, 153. 
Suburbs, 142. 
Symphony Orchestra, 88. 

Taft's Coffee House, 84. 
Tea Party, 6. 

Technology, Institute of, 58. 
Telegraph Offices, 161. 
Theatres, 159. 

Bijou Theatre, 89. 

Boston Museum, 84. 

Boston Theatre, 88. 

Globe Theatre, 90. 

HoUis Street Theatre, 116. 

Howard Athenaeum, 42. 

Park Tlieatre, 89. 

Windsor Theatre, 120. 
Thompson's Island, 121. 
Ticknor Mansion, 38. 
Time Ball, 98. 
Tontine Crescent, 98. 
Town Cove, 78. 
Tremont Street, 108, 116. 
Trimountaine, 1, 23. 
Tufts College, 157. 

Unitarian Headquarters, 40. 
U. S. Court House, 74. 
U. S. Marine Hospital, 142. 
U. S. Signal Service Station, 98. 
University Press, 148. 

Valuation of Boston, 8. 

Warren Mansion, 132. 

Warren Tomb, 140. 

Warren, William, 42, 85. 

Washington Elm, 148. 

Washington Street, 22, 112. 

Water, Coclutuate, Introduction of, 27. 

Water- Works, 27, 135. 

Wendell Phillips, 91. 

West Chester Park, 118. 

West End, 23. 

West Roxbury, 129. 

Wharves. 

Central Wharf, 106. 

India Wharf, 106. 

Long Wharf, 77. 

T Wharf, 106. 
Wliite, R. H., & Co., 94. 
Winter HiU, 156. 
Winthrop, Gov., 85. 
"World's Museum, 88. 

Young Men's Christian Association, 58. 
Young Men's Christian Union, 91. 



HOUGHTON, MIFPLIN & CO. 

4 Park Street^ BostoUf Mass, 

Will send, post-paid, to any address, on application, 

A PORTRAIT CATALOGUE 

Of all their Publications, and including fine engraved Portraits of many 
of their distinguished Authors, as follows : — 



Louis Agassiz. 

Thomas Bailev Aldrich. 

Hans- Christian Andersen. 

BjORNSTJERNE BjORNSON. 

Robert Browning. 
William Cullen Bryant. 
John Burroughs. 
Alice and Phcebe Gary. 
Joseph Cook. 
J. Fenimore Cooper. 
Charles Egbert Craddock. 
Ralph Waldo Emerson. 
James T. Fields. 



John Fiske. 
Bret Harte. 
Nathaniel Hawthorne. 
Oliver Wendell Holmes. 
William Dean Howells. 
Henry James. 
Sarah Orne Jewett. 
Lucy Larcom. 
Henry Wadsworth Long- 
fellow. 
James Russell Lowell. 
James Parton. 
Elizabeth Stuart Phelps. 



Horace E. Scudder. 
Edmund C. Stedman. 
Harriet Eeecher Stowe. 
Bayard Taylor. 
Alfred Tennyson. 
Celia Thaxter. 
Henry D. Thoreau. 
Charles Dudley Warner. 
E. P. Whipple. 
Richard Grant White. 
Mrs. a. D. T. Whitney. 
John G. Whittier. 



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141. City Jfosfital. 

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14.1- EytandEar. " 

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145 CAildrtn's Afissit'n. 
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147. Agfd Mm- Home. A. 6. 



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154. ^i/irt. 

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156. £0fA>fl t/uivertity. G. 5. 

157. Imtitiife 0/ Teehnohgy. 
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